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#1
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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AC power idea for target practice
Here’s one of those wild ideas that will probably get shot down
(probably by Larry) but some of us may learn something from the patterns the flames make. I’ve got a nice, temperature compensated, battery charger for running off the AC at dockside. When running for long periods under power however, my expensive AGM’s are being driven by the alternator which isn’t significantly different from the ones on the Model T. Retrofitting my larger spare with an expensive, 3 stage, temperature compensated regulator is on my wish list. However, why not disconnect the alternator from the battery circuit and run it to an inverter large enough to run the dual 10 amp battery charger? The battery charger then plugs into the AC and one charger does it all. If I switched off the battery charger, this would also give me some AC power when the engine was running. I don’t use AC much and don’t care much for making it by drawing down my batteries. I wouldn’t mind having the engine idling for the infrequent times I would like AC away from the dock. If I could make this work (by switching off battery charging) well enough to heat up my small hot water heater, which would also be getting waste exhaust heat (although not much with just 20 HP) , it would be the nuts. -- Roger Long |
#2
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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AC power idea for target practice
Disregarding the possible merits of the idea, the problem is going to be
matching the alternator output to the inverter. The inverter expects to see 12 VDC (nominal) but could be designed (could have been designed) to accept the multi-phase, higher-voltage, frequency-dependent-upon-engine speed, alternator output. Your job, should you agree to accept it, is to query the inverter manufacturers to determine whether their products will accept unprocessed alternator output. Having established that such units are commercially available, we can then debate whether the arrangement is a "good idea". By way of a preview, depending on an awful lot of awful things, your Model T-era charging may not be improved much by even the most costly charger on the market. You might try to establish whether it is the alternator/regulator combination that is causing your charging irritation or the unwillingness of your expensive AGM's to accept bulk charge at the exalted rates of which we dream. Chuck Roger Long wrote: Here’s one of those wild ideas that will probably get shot down (probably by Larry) but some of us may learn something from the patterns the flames make. I’ve got a nice, temperature compensated, battery charger for running off the AC at dockside. When running for long periods under power however, my expensive AGM’s are being driven by the alternator which isn’t significantly different from the ones on the Model T. Retrofitting my larger spare with an expensive, 3 stage, temperature compensated regulator is on my wish list. However, why not disconnect the alternator from the battery circuit and run it to an inverter large enough to run the dual 10 amp battery charger? The battery charger then plugs into the AC and one charger does it all. If I switched off the battery charger, this would also give me some AC power when the engine was running. I don’t use AC much and don’t care much for making it by drawing down my batteries. I wouldn’t mind having the engine idling for the infrequent times I would like AC away from the dock. If I could make this work (by switching off battery charging) well enough to heat up my small hot water heater, which would also be getting waste exhaust heat (although not much with just 20 HP) , it would be the nuts. |
#3
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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AC power idea for target practice
There would probably have to be another voltage regulator in between
the alternator output (from it's standard regulator) and the inverter. I bought one of those little inverters that go in a cigarette lighter so I could charge extra cell phone batteries in my car. I have an unswitched outlet that is on all the time and the charger works great in that. As soon as I turn the engine on however, the light on the charger blinks rapidly back and forth from green to red. (charging to charged). I'm not sure if it's charging but I haven't wanted to risk the $70 battery and $40 charger to find out. Sounds like you are pointing me towards similar problems on a much bigger and more expensive scale. BTW my AGM's are working great the way I am using them, short motoring periods and an overnight plug in about once a week to top them up. With a 20 HP engine and very minimal hotel loads, they don't work hard anyway. I'm just wondering how they would like being driven by the low tech Hitachi alternator with its tiny built in regulator if I had occasion to motor for 12 - 25 hours straight to move the boat somewhere. -- Roger Long |
#4
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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AC power idea for target practice
I know this is a serious question and I'm not trying to be a PIA. From
model T's to inverters in one fell swoop. Model T's were hand cranked, used a spark coil and a magneto (I think). There was no battery, heater or fuel pump. Basic in black. All in fun boys |
#5
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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AC power idea for target practice
Hey!
Don't you know it is a material violation of usenet rules to post real facts! Actually, the T's did have dry cell batteries to aid in generating a healthy spark while hand-cranking. But you are dead on in saying that they had no alternators or generators. Thanks! Chuck wrote: I know this is a serious question and I'm not trying to be a PIA. From model T's to inverters in one fell swoop. Model T's were hand cranked, used a spark coil and a magneto (I think). There was no battery, heater or fuel pump. Basic in black. All in fun boys |
#6
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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AC power idea for target practice
On Sat, 11 Mar 2006 17:20:55 GMT, in message
"Roger Long" wrote: BTW my AGM's are working great the way I am using them, short motoring periods and an overnight plug in about once a week to top them up. With a 20 HP engine and very minimal hotel loads, they don't work hard anyway. I'm just wondering how they would like being driven by the low tech Hitachi alternator with its tiny built in regulator if I had occasion to motor for 12 - 25 hours straight to move the boat somewhere. If your concern is over-charging from extended motoring, how about adding a high current draw accessory that you can turn on whenever you don't want those amps flowing into your batteries? Just a thought... I'm sure I can find a way to burn plenty of amps, at least in terms of the output of a cheap little alternator. Or read the manufacturer's specs on the AGMs to find out what their acceptable max continuous charging voltage is and make sure your regulator doesn't exceed that. The "Model T" alternator I used to have on my engine (A4) was regulated to a voltage low enough that it never really fully charged the batteries, so I could run the engine forever... Sort of the opposite problem to what you are imagining. I only got full charge when I got the chance to plug in overnight. You may be in the same situation. I would suggest that you partially discharge the batteries, start the engine, then go for an extended motor cruise. Monitor the voltage across the batteries and see where it stabilizes. Then make the assessment about whether or not extended motoring will hurt your batteries. Ryk |
#7
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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AC power idea for target practice
On Sat, 11 Mar 2006 13:56:14 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote: However, why not disconnect the alternator from the battery circuit and run it to an inverter large enough to run the dual 10 amp battery charger? The alternator needs to always have a load on the output to keep the voltage from going too high and burning out the diodes (integral to the alternator). Normally the battery provides this constant load. The risk is that your inverter might have a mode where it turns off in some way, leaving the alternator unloaded, and leaving you looking for a replacement. I'd leave the battery in the circuit, why take a chance? |
#8
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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AC power idea for target practice
"Wayne.B" wrote
a replacement. I'd leave the battery in the circuit, why take a chance? Oh, I have no plans to actually do this. It's just a conceptual idea I'm throwing out. The whole thing would have to be carefully designed. There is a gadget called, I think, a "Zapstopper" to protect the alternator diodes if your wife's cousin turns the battery switch to off when you ask him shut off the cabin lights. Something like that might take care of the concern you raise though. -- Roger Long |
#9
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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AC power idea for target practice
Hey Wayne,, that is what I was thinking but since I am too dumb to figure
this stuff out; I left it up to you. Once, long ago, in another time, before ... anyway,, I had a boat with the switch. The 3 way switch that you could set for battery 1, 2, or both. Nobody told me and I was young and dumb so I decided to show off for my crew by switching the knob. "Look, now I am recharging both and now I am charging one" Next day,, no alternator. Live and learn.. JW -- "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Sat, 11 Mar 2006 13:56:14 GMT, "Roger Long" wrote: However, why not disconnect the alternator from the battery circuit and run it to an inverter large enough to run the dual 10 amp battery charger? The alternator needs to always have a load on the output to keep the voltage from going too high and burning out the diodes (integral to the alternator). Normally the battery provides this constant load. The risk is that your inverter might have a mode where it turns off in some way, leaving the alternator unloaded, and leaving you looking for a replacement. I'd leave the battery in the circuit, why take a chance? |
#10
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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AC power idea for target practice
On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 12:23:55 GMT, "Thomas Wentworth"
wrote: Once, long ago, in another time, before ... anyway,, I had a boat with the switch. The 3 way switch that you could set for battery 1, 2, or both. Nobody told me and I was young and dumb so I decided to show off for my crew by switching the knob. "Look, now I am recharging both and now I am charging one" Next day,, no alternator. Live and learn.. Oh yes. I think just about everyone with a boat has had that happen at one time or another. It has become my rule that the battery switch is never operated with the engines running. Period. Doesn't matter if the switch is "make-before-break", has a field disconnect wire, or there is a "Zap-stopper" installed. There's always a possibility of failure and it only takes a few microseconds to zap the diodes and ruin your next couple of days locating and installing a replacement. |
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