I want to install a windlass, but cabling it from my batteries with
large wires is a major job.

I am thinking of placing a dedicated battery up with the windlass and
running smaller wires from the main bank where the charger lives



Putting in a secondary battery is also a major job... if you do it right.

Gogarty wrote:
Though it is done, most responders argue against a dedicated battery near the
windlass. I agree. Buy and run the heavy cable. I used 1/0 red and black
marine grade (tinned) from Cobra. Thirty feet of each at $2.00 a foot in 1999.
You save the weight of a bettery in the bow where you don't want too much
weigfht and while the cable may weigh as much or more, the weignt is
distributed through the boat and is down low.

The cable doesn't present the maintenance & replacement issues that a
battery does, either.

.... The cable is direct connected to
the starting battery with a 100 amp breaker as close to the battery as
possible and accessible in the cabin. The breaker is in fact the switch. I
also ran three-part wire to an up/down switch in the cockpit in addition to
the foot switches on the deck next to the windlass.

That's a good idea. I'm planning on putting in a wireless remote for our
windlass, but that'a 'someday' project. I put in a 1000W windlass last
fall, running cables... but then our battery bank is further forward
than in many boats. Another factor I considered is that we're planning
to install a bow thruster, and it can tap into the same cable run.



One thing that greatly surprised me was the wiring attached to the switches
and motor. They are not tinned and some have turned to red dust.


Ouch... what brand of windlass? I got an Aries (Italian)... seems decent
but I've prefered an Ideal, they just cost twice as much.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

In article ,
says...


One thing that greatly surprised me was the wiring attached to the switches
and motor. They are not tinned and some have turned to red dust.


Ouch... what brand of windlass? I got an Aries (Italian)... seems decent
but I've prefered an Ideal, they just cost twice as much.

Lewmar Concept 1.

In article , DSK
wrote:

I want to install a windlass, but cabling it from my batteries with
large wires is a major job.

I am thinking of placing a dedicated battery up with the windlass and
running smaller wires from the main bank where the charger lives



Putting in a secondary battery is also a major job... if you do it right.

Gogarty wrote:
Though it is done, most responders argue against a dedicated battery near
the
windlass. I agree. Buy and run the heavy cable. I used 1/0 red and black
marine grade (tinned) from Cobra. Thirty feet of each at $2.00 a foot in
1999.
You save the weight of a bettery in the bow where you don't want too much
weigfht and while the cable may weigh as much or more, the weignt is
distributed through the boat and is down low.

The cable doesn't present the maintenance & replacement issues that a
battery does, either.

.... The cable is direct connected to
the starting battery with a 100 amp breaker as close to the battery as
possible and accessible in the cabin. The breaker is in fact the switch. I
also ran three-part wire to an up/down switch in the cockpit in addition to
the foot switches on the deck next to the windlass.

That's a good idea. I'm planning on putting in a wireless remote for our
windlass, but that'a 'someday' project.

I'm planning on fitting a hydraulic winch and save myself a lot of
grief with electrics, if I need anything other than a manual windlass.
I have 2 or 3 hydraulic pot haulers about the place already and the
components aren't all that expensive in the scheme of things. Hydraulic
pump run via 12V electric clutch off the main engine.

Not for everyone but I have the tools to do it right. Can have remotes
at the wheel then. Fitting a wireless remote seems like something
guaranteed to go wrong.

PDW

... I'm planning on putting in a wireless remote for our
windlass, but that'a 'someday' project.


Peter Wiley wrote:
I'm planning on fitting a hydraulic winch and save myself a lot of
grief with electrics

Diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks... Having made some of my living
repairing & maintaining military & industrial hydraulic systems for the
past 20+ years, I think much more of electrically powered systems than
hydraulics.


I have 2 or 3 hydraulic pot haulers about the place already and the
components aren't all that expensive in the scheme of things. Hydraulic
pump run via 12V electric clutch off the main engine.


For a windlass it's not such a bad thing, you'll most likely be using it
only when the engines already running. For other applications, it's a PITA.


Not for everyone but I have the tools to do it right. Can have remotes
at the wheel then.

A solenoid (that pesky electricity again) or running pilot tubes to a
control valve?

.... Fitting a wireless remote seems like something
guaranteed to go wrong.


Hydraulics are IMHO not only guaranteed to go wrong, but to make an oily
mess most of the time. But you're right that it would be a bit less
expensive for the same power.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Peter Wiley wrote:

I'm planning on fitting a hydraulic winch and save myself a lot of
grief with electrics


I will also be using hydraulics for the windlass as well as a counter
rotating bow thruster.

A little trick.

Hydraulics people tend to promote 2,000-3,000 psi systems since it keeps
the componets smaller and less expensive.

The down side is that it encourages leaks.

During my industrial career, kept hydraulic operating pressures for my
equipment below 1,500 psi.

At that pressure, what does a leak look like?


Lew

Just to clarify my origianl post:

Cost is not a concern here with respect to running large wires from the
house battery to the windlass location.

However the path for running large wires is horrible. I am not even sure
I can get 4 or 6 AWG wires through the limited space.

That is why I am strongly considering a windlass battery up forward in
the anchor locker.

I would MUCH prefer not having the maintenance issues associated with
yet another battery but I really don't have a lot of options.

Thanks

In article ,
says...



Just to clarify my origianl post:

Cost is not a concern here with respect to running large wires from the
house battery to the windlass location.

However the path for running large wires is horrible. I am not even sure
I can get 4 or 6 AWG wires through the limited space.

That is why I am strongly considering a windlass battery up forward in
the anchor locker.

I would MUCH prefer not having the maintenance issues associated with
yet another battery but I really don't have a lot of options.

Weelll. Why didn't you say so? What boat is it?

Gogarty wrote:
In article ,
says...



Just to clarify my origianl post:

Cost is not a concern here with respect to running large wires from the
house battery to the windlass location.

However the path for running large wires is horrible. I am not even sure
I can get 4 or 6 AWG wires through the limited space.

That is why I am strongly considering a windlass battery up forward in
the anchor locker.

I would MUCH prefer not having the maintenance issues associated with
yet another battery but I really don't have a lot of options.


Weelll. Why didn't you say so? What boat is it?


1st line in my original post starting this thread:

"I want to install a windlass, but cabling it from my batteries with
large wires is a major job."

In article ,
Doin it right wrote:

Just to clarify my origianl post:

Cost is not a concern here with respect to running large wires from the
house battery to the windlass location.

However the path for running large wires is horrible. I am not even sure
I can get 4 or 6 AWG wires through the limited space.

That is why I am strongly considering a windlass battery up forward in
the anchor locker.

I would MUCH prefer not having the maintenance issues associated with
yet another battery but I really don't have a lot of options.

Thanks


?? Are you sure you mean 4-6 AWG? I run 1/0 or 2/0 for lesser loads (my
starter, only 6' away). Made a real difference when I switched from
essentially a car battery cable.

Too lazy to look it up, but my gut tells me that I'd use 4-6 to a
battery up there, solely to charge it. From the battery to the windlass
I would use BIG wire. You're not going to push 100+ amps through a
little bitty LONG wire without a lot of drop, which will demand more
amperage, which will create more drop....

Yes, it may work, but...

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Jere Lull wrote:

In article ,
Doin it right wrote:


Just to clarify my origianl post:

Cost is not a concern here with respect to running large wires from the
house battery to the windlass location.

However the path for running large wires is horrible. I am not even sure
I can get 4 or 6 AWG wires through the limited space.

That is why I am strongly considering a windlass battery up forward in
the anchor locker.

I would MUCH prefer not having the maintenance issues associated with
yet another battery but I really don't have a lot of options.

Thanks



?? Are you sure you mean 4-6 AWG? I run 1/0 or 2/0 for lesser loads (my
starter, only 6' away). Made a real difference when I switched from
essentially a car battery cable.

Too lazy to look it up, but my gut tells me that I'd use 4-6 to a
battery up there, solely to charge it. From the battery to the windlass
I would use BIG wire. You're not going to push 100+ amps through a
little bitty LONG wire without a lot of drop, which will demand more
amperage, which will create more drop....

Yes, it may work, but...


I would never run #4 or 6 to POWER a windlass.

YES I KNOW that 1/0 or bigger is needed to drive a large current device
like a windlass.

My issue is one of accomodating wires of that size through the boat from
the house bank.

I am instead considering installing a dedicated windlass battery up in
the anchor locker. If I go that route I will run 4 or 6 awg to charge
that battery and add a breaker at the house bank/charger.

And to clarify your post, let me make a correction. What you meant to
say was:

You're not going to push 100+ amps through a
little bitty LONG wire without a HUGE voltage drop that will reduce
the power the windlass while simultaneously generating a lot of HEAT and
a resulting fire...