Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
As a traditional sailor with most of my time behind gaffs and
bowsprits, I am more than familiar with sweating. It is amazing what you can move that way. As someone points out below, my halyards are internal and the fitting locations are not optimum for old fashioned tug and grunt. Sweating or the winch worked OK on the working jib but the 150 roller furling genoa with the foam and double cloth layer in the leading edge seems to need a lot of tension to set right. Due to the loss mechanical advantage with the turning block, I actually had to sweat on the tackle line. It's short but it still worked well. When I get the mast off the boat and relocate a lot of the stuff, I'll raise the cleats which will help. I'd go with a triple block if I did this again and certainly if the boat was any larger. I agree that on a 30 foot or under boat, one with hank jib, or jibs a standard leading edge, you can get by with sweating alone if the halyards are external or exit high enough on the mast. -- Roger Long wrote in message ups.com... I'm glad you are happy with your arrangement. I'd offer that on a boat this size, one can get as much or more force than needed without any of this by simply choking the line at the cleat, putting one's foot hard & high against the mast, & alternately drawing the halyard outward like a bowstring while snubbing it up between strokes. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Halyard advice appreciated | Cruising | |||
internal halyard and wire slap | Cruising | |||
Main halyard winch, 1sp. or 2sp? | Cruising | |||
Problems replacing main halyard - advice? | General | |||
$#%~#^%@ Halyard piston Shackle Lanyard! | Cruising |