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"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message
... Can you explain to me why you are using these relays on the lower switches? Why not just parallel the lower switches with the upper switches and be done with it? I guess you weren't in on the discussions leading up to this design. Testing an earlier version of my dual pump rig with it's long dual hoses in a plastic tub of approximately the same surface area of my bilge sump, I discovered that the backflow through the bilge lines with the pumps quit would raise the sump level slightly more than the activation range of any bilge switch I could find. I didn't want to relocate the bilge lines to shorten them or use checkvalves. The purpose of this is to simulate a float switch with a four inch activation range so there is no possibility of backflow setting up an endless pumping cycle. The system has turned out to have other advantages. The lower switches can't turn the pumps on by themselves. When the top switches go on just once, they trip the relay and the system then pumps all the way down. This provides built in protection from the pumps "chirping" in a seaway due to sloshing. If I want to pump the bilge down after it has filled enough for the lower switches to activate but not wait for it to reach full pump activation depth, I can just give a top switch a flick and then forget it. It will pump full down without holding the switch up. It turns out to be maybe unnecessary because the backflow is less than in my test or calculations. Still, it was fun working the system out and putting it together. -- Roger Long |
#2
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"Roger Long" wrote in
: It turns out to be maybe unnecessary because the backflow is less than in my test or calculations. Still, it was fun working the system out and putting it together. Backflow is inevitable in such cheap impeller pumps we put in boats. Backflow is also important in CLEARING the pump of trash it has sucked into its intake grate. A good splash of backflow blows the trash out of the pump so the next time it comes in it will start cleared until the trash gets sucked into it again. Therefore, I don't consider backflow to be "bad". The bilge isn't going to be dry with these pumps, anyways. When Geoffrey bought Lionheart, an Amel Sharki 41 (39 if you're talking to our marina people), I was amazed that all the sink drains, shower drain and bilge water didn't simply make an awful smelly mess in the bilge. The original French pump Amel installed was a positive-displacement diaphram pump, quite large, but manually operated by the breaker. The former owner had no concept of "maintenance" on such as DC motors or pumps, so it was just worn in two from lack of a few drops of oil. The armature was against the stator dragging every time it came on. It was replaced by the biggest Rule, some bogus rating of 4000 gph, which was placed way down in the keel, about 5 feet under the galley sole with a Rule float switch. Everything in the boat dumps into this deep space whos sides are very steep, indeed. A pipe with a ball valve on the end so you can secure it, runs forward to the shower/sink which dump unceremoniously into the bilge under the false deck in the head. The shower really has no drain at all, it just falls through the holes in the wooden deck into the forward bilge, forward of the 2nd watertight bulkhead, the forward bulkhead of the main cabin. You secure the hatch with a mahogany (of course) bar and turn off the drain valve to prevent flooding. The arrangement works quite well. Once at sea, after dishwashing, I get out the old pump handle to the manual monster under the steps and use it to pump out whatever solids have collected. It has a very nice foot piece at the bilge bottom that really sucks it dry. The big Rule sucks out most of it. -- Larry You know you've had a rough night when you wake up and your outlined in chalk. |
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