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#1
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Brian and Ian will be glad to hear that their contributions to the
thread on the design of the extended range bilge pumping system were not if vain. I have experimented with both the siphon and checkvalve versions of the cofferdam idea and it has been very instructive. Both seem like simple ideas that just have to work. If fact, both will if you are dealing with rapid water level changes such as would happen with a broken stuffing box hose. Most of the time though, the bilge system will be experiencing very slow accumulations and level changes. Things happen very differently at this time scale. Check valves that work reliably at very low heads and slow level changes are not a trivial engineering proposition. The very slow rise does not put any pressure in the flap so water seeps in. This equalizes the pressure on each side and the cofferdam fills up. If you pre-load the check valve, it will prevent the cofferdam filling but then there won't be enough difference in pressure to allow it to empty. It can be done but would be so delicate an adjustment that it would never work reliably in the real word. -- Roger Long |
#2
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"Roger Long" wrote in
: Most of the time though, the bilge system will be experiencing very slow accumulations and level changes. Things happen very differently at this time scale. "Lionheart", an Amel Sharki ketch, dumps everything into a very deep bilge in her keel...sinks, shower, seepage, everything except the cockpit scuppers. When Geoffrey first got this boat, I was concerned the Rule 4000 gph pump down in there with its little Rule float switch was going to seize if anything went down the drain. I mean, we wash dirty dishes into the bilge, not just shower soap! You may have suggested why this arrangement works so good..... Every time someone washes anything out, there are no "very slow accumulations" into this deep, but narrow bilge. No sooner than you pull the plug on the dishwater, it all goes flooding into the keel and cycles the pump...HARD...to dump it overboard above the waterline. There IS a Rule checkvalve in the large hose going overboard, about 4' from the pump outlet, to keep it from backflushing into the pump, especially when we're heeled over to port, submerging the outlet if we're lucky...(c; Maybe flushing all that detergent, abrasive coffee grounds, sanitizing booze? and SoftScrub through there is what keeps it from clogging up! Whenever we fill the 200 gallon keel watertank from the plughole under the center cockpit helmsman's footrest, we dump the hose running wide open down into the 8x6 hatch right above this sump for a while to stir up any solids that may be down there while we have the chance. What I find really odd is this chemical/food/booze/soap soup DOESN'T smell anywhere near as bad as the old Endeavour 35's leaky bilgewater that never had anything but "very slow accumulations" of rainwater from the mast and seepage around some through-hull fittings and the packing gland. It stunk like a dead swamp whenever you lifted the Endeavour's floorboards in there. The Amel's bilge is damned near refreshing in comparison.... I never clogs....and amazing stuff has made its way down in there..... Unfortunately, the original bilge pump, a big diaphram, self-priming beast with big hoses, was worn out when we got it. That thing LOOKED like a sewage pump! |
#3
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Another report of a checkvalve installation that works.
Maybe you would answer the question that I didn't get an answer to from the other checkvalve user. Do you pump or strip out your bilge by any other method? I also have a hand pump plumbed in on a separate line which I plan to take a few strokes on to remove the residual water in the bilge and keep it as dry as possible. Since it is positive displacement and a suction pump, it will clear its own line. This will bring the water level below the inlets of the two Rule pumps. If these pumps can become airbound as I see numerous references to, it seems that water draining back from the pump and line up to the check valve would certainly disable them as well. It's pretty hard to get an airbound pump going again because you have to get down in the bilge and break the line. I'm sure check valves work fine as long as you don't let the water level drop below the pump inlets. Interesting about the "dump everything in there" method. I'd like to know what Peggie thinks. I can see how it could work. Odor could be from one type of bacteria thriving. By dumping so much stuff, the ecology is constantly changing so that no one bug ever finds favorable conditions long enough to grow to the critical numbers that cause odor. -- Roger Long "Larry W4CSC" wrote in message ... "Roger Long" wrote in : Most of the time though, the bilge system will be experiencing very slow accumulations and level changes. Things happen very differently at this time scale. "Lionheart", an Amel Sharki ketch, dumps everything into a very deep bilge in her keel...sinks, shower, seepage, everything except the cockpit scuppers. When Geoffrey first got this boat, I was concerned the Rule 4000 gph pump down in there with its little Rule float switch was going to seize if anything went down the drain. I mean, we wash dirty dishes into the bilge, not just shower soap! You may have suggested why this arrangement works so good..... Every time someone washes anything out, there are no "very slow accumulations" into this deep, but narrow bilge. No sooner than you pull the plug on the dishwater, it all goes flooding into the keel and cycles the pump...HARD...to dump it overboard above the waterline. There IS a Rule checkvalve in the large hose going overboard, about 4' from the pump outlet, to keep it from backflushing into the pump, especially when we're heeled over to port, submerging the outlet if we're lucky...(c; Maybe flushing all that detergent, abrasive coffee grounds, sanitizing booze? and SoftScrub through there is what keeps it from clogging up! Whenever we fill the 200 gallon keel watertank from the plughole under the center cockpit helmsman's footrest, we dump the hose running wide open down into the 8x6 hatch right above this sump for a while to stir up any solids that may be down there while we have the chance. What I find really odd is this chemical/food/booze/soap soup DOESN'T smell anywhere near as bad as the old Endeavour 35's leaky bilgewater that never had anything but "very slow accumulations" of rainwater from the mast and seepage around some through-hull fittings and the packing gland. It stunk like a dead swamp whenever you lifted the Endeavour's floorboards in there. The Amel's bilge is damned near refreshing in comparison.... I never clogs....and amazing stuff has made its way down in there..... Unfortunately, the original bilge pump, a big diaphram, self-priming beast with big hoses, was worn out when we got it. That thing LOOKED like a sewage pump! |
#4
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"Roger Long" wrote in
: Do you pump or strip out your bilge by any other method? I guess the answer would be "sometimes". Amel installed a big hand pump under the main hatch steps with a hole in them so you can fill the pump with dirt every time someone climbs down into the boat with dirty shoes. This big diaphram pump has a "shoe" that really sucks from the bottom of the bilge sort of like a vacuum cleaner attachment for bare floors and does a very nice job scavenging anything the electric pump misses. So, when we clean the bilges..not as often as we should...I always pump out the bilge for a while with this nice pump, cleaning the inside of it and its hoses with the commercial bilge cleaner soap, too. As it sucks from a little different place than the electric, from much lower down where you can't even see, it gets a lot of the solids from the very bottom. Geez, don't pump that handle in front of some greenies on the dock...(c; Late at night when they're all drunk is the best time.... |
#5
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Here's the final bilge system installed.
http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Bilge.htm#Final -- Roger Long |
#6
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"Roger Long" wrote in
: http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Bilge.htm#Final Wow...so CLEAN! Has this boat ever been in the water??...(c; Where's the oil and exotic marine life aboard?? On a more serious note, move those wires away from the floats on the Rule switches....thanks. Geez, guys, look at all that SPACE! I bet we can get 20 more hoses up into the engine compartment! Where's the intake for the Whale manual pump, anyways? Just doesn't seem natural with nothin' leakin'....just a l'il....(c; |
#7
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"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message
Wow...so CLEAN! Has this boat ever been in the water??...(c; The boat is incredibly clean. Fresh water helps but the former owners spent full time on it during the sailing season and I think they did a lot of cleaning as well as keeping it open and ventilated. The engine looks in better shape then many five year old boats I've seen. On a more serious note, move those wires away from the floats on the Rule switches....thanks. The wires are below and not as close as they look. I'm looking for some clips to be sure they stay in place though. Where's the intake for the Whale manual pump, anyways? It's at the very aft end of the sump just behind the stanchion and out of the first picture. In the second picture, it's the big black hose with the lettering. -- Roger Long |
#8
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"Roger Long" wrote in
: It's at the very aft end of the sump just behind the stanchion and out of the first picture. In the second picture, it's the big black hose with the lettering. -- Thanks. That's one of the nicest-looking used boat bilges I've seen. |
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