Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#14
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() beaufortnc wrote: Hi, In my quest for the "perfect" marine electrical connection, I've heard and read a variety of opinions. In general, most sources agree on the majority of subjects (tinned wire/connectors, correct sizing, etc...) However, when it comes to the subject of whether to solder connections or not, it seems that there is some disagreement. Are high quality mechanical connections, made with the proper tool, and protected with adhesive heat shrink enough? Some think that it isn't. Any thoughts? Thanks, Mike. Mike, if done properly, with the right equipment, both soldered and crimped connections work very well. You would be hard pressed to show proof of one being better than the other. Manufacturers prefer crimped connections because they cost much less than soldered connections, and they tend to be more consistant, from part to part. Their's also no flux residue to clean from a crimped contact. The real problem with crimped connections is that for them to perform as designed you need the proper crimping tool and die set from the crimp contact manufacturer. This will produce a "gass tight seal" in the area of the crimp. If you do not have the proper die set, and tool (the right tool and die can cost a few hundred dollars), you may over crimp (start breaking the strands) which can result in the contact eventually seperating from the wire. If you under crimp the contact you will not end up with a gass tight seal, the end result of which will be increased resistance at the point of the crimp due to corrosion (it may take a long time for this to happen, but it will). I have never seen anyone outside of a manufacturer that had the proper crimping tool, people think they have the right tool but they don't, their just not common. Because of the reasons above, your best bet, without spending lots of money on special crimping tools, a soldered joint is probably the most reliable connection method for you. Stick with tinned wires and tinned contacts, solder with 63/37 rosen based solder, don't apply too much solder (it can wick up under the insulation), don't melt the insulation, and clean the flux residue off with a spray cleaned. If you do cover the ternination with heat shrink it's also a good idea to cover the final termination with a product like Liquid Tape. A connectoin made in this manner should last for a long time if not exposed to too much moisture. I hope this helped to answer your qusetion. John |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
GPS output to multiple devices | Electronics | |||
Can I use Solid wire for rewiring sailboat if not WHY? | Boat Building | |||
Can I use Solid wire for rewiring sailboat if not WHY? | Cruising | |||
Can I use Solid wire for rewiring sailboat if not WHY? | Cruising | |||
If you have to solder | Cruising |