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beaufortnc
 
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Default To Solder or Not to Solder

Hi,

In my quest for the "perfect" marine electrical connection, I've heard
and read a variety of opinions.

In general, most sources agree on the majority of subjects (tinned
wire/connectors, correct sizing, etc...)

However, when it comes to the subject of whether to solder connections
or not, it seems that there is some disagreement.

Are high quality mechanical connections, made with the proper tool, and
protected with adhesive heat shrink enough?

Some think that it isn't.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Mike.

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Rich
 
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The arguement that I've heard about NOT soldering is that by soldering
you create a hard connection that is subject to stress from vibration.

However, my practice is to solder ALL connections and also heat shrink
over them as well. I can't imagine any on-board connections that
would be affected by vibration except perhaps on an engine harness.
Personally, I would solder them too.

I believe that advantage of soldering is that you completely fill any
voids in a terminal or lug thus making it impossible for salt
water/air to penetrate and cause corrosion. Heat shrinking over the
connection further protects the connection.

It would be interesting to know what the mil-spec requirements are
that our navy uses for their ships. I worked in that industry, but
was not involved in cable wiring so I am not familiar with the spec.
Maybe someone knowledgeable in this mil-spec will chime in.

In answer to your question whether proper mechanical crimping with an
adhesive heat seal is enough, I think that it meats the minimum
requirements. But I think that soldering before the heat shrink is
better.

I am a belt AND suspenders type of person.......

Rich


"beaufortnc" wrote:

Hi,

In my quest for the "perfect" marine electrical connection, I've heard
and read a variety of opinions.

In general, most sources agree on the majority of subjects (tinned
wire/connectors, correct sizing, etc...)

However, when it comes to the subject of whether to solder connections
or not, it seems that there is some disagreement.

Are high quality mechanical connections, made with the proper tool, and
protected with adhesive heat shrink enough?

Some think that it isn't.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Mike.


  #3   Report Post  
Jetcap
 
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Rich wrote:

The arguement that I've heard about NOT soldering is that by soldering
you create a hard connection that is subject to stress from vibration.


Nonsense. Aerospace manufacturers use solder cup terminals on critical
connectors throughout aircraft and spacecraft which operate in severe
vibration and environmental conditions that you would not survive.

However, my practice is to solder ALL connections and also heat shrink
over them as well. I can't imagine any on-board connections that
would be affected by vibration except perhaps on an engine harness.
Personally, I would solder them too.


Waste of time and solder if the terminal is designed for crimping it
provides adequate mechanical support and electrical connectivity.

I believe that advantage of soldering is that you completely fill any
voids in a terminal or lug thus making it impossible for salt
water/air to penetrate and cause corrosion. Heat shrinking over the
connection further protects the connection.


Buy the cup type crimp connectors and do the same thing, they are sealed
at the connection end.

It would be interesting to know what the mil-spec requirements are
that our navy uses for their ships. I worked in that industry, but
was not involved in cable wiring so I am not familiar with the spec.
Maybe someone knowledgeable in this mil-spec will chime in.


There are pages of mil-specs. Each one is for a particular application.
Some are for mechanical crimps, some are for soldered connections.

In answer to your question whether proper mechanical crimping with an
adhesive heat seal is enough, I think that it meats the minimum
requirements. But I think that soldering before the heat shrink is
better.


If the crimp connector is sized for the wire used and the crimping tool
is a high quality (not stamped out sheet metal held together with a
cheap rivet) of the proper size and type for the connector used, no
soldering is required.

Rick
  #4   Report Post  
Tim
 
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Waste of time and solder if the terminal is designed for crimping it
provides adequate mechanical support and electrical connectivity. .."


In 24 years of working in the auto/electric rebuilding industry, I've
found that "solderless" connections always work best with solder.

  #5   Report Post  
Larry W4CSC
 
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"Tim" wrote in
oups.com:

In 24 years of working in the auto/electric rebuilding industry, I've
found that "solderless" connections always work best with solder.


Every plug in my 1973 Mercedes 220D sedan is soldered into solder cups.
Not a single failure of any soldered wire in the intense vibration in a car
in 32 years. Of course, these are brass split pins in bakelite cases into
brass holes in bakelite cases....not some cheap Molex connector shoved
together after crimping....(c;

Too bad my 1983 Mercedes 300TD station wagon isn't connected like
this....(d^




  #6   Report Post  
DSK
 
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Rich wrote:
The arguement that I've heard about NOT soldering is that by soldering
you create a hard connection that is subject to stress from vibration.


And it can damage the insulation

And it can get brittle and lose it's adherence with age

However, my practice is to solder ALL connections and also heat shrink
over them as well. I can't imagine any on-board connections that
would be affected by vibration except perhaps on an engine harness.
Personally, I would solder them too.


I dunno if I buy the "hard point vs vibration" argument myself, but I've
seen plenty of failed soldered connections.

And everything on a boat vibrates.

I believe that advantage of soldering is that you completely fill any
voids in a terminal or lug thus making it impossible for salt
water/air to penetrate and cause corrosion. Heat shrinking over the
connection further protects the connection.


Well, using dielectric goo on the end before inserting it into the crimp
socket does the same thing, quicker and easier and doesn't interfere
with the crimping.


It would be interesting to know what the mil-spec requirements are
that our navy uses for their ships. I worked in that industry, but
was not involved in cable wiring so I am not familiar with the spec.
Maybe someone knowledgeable in this mil-spec will chime in.


AFAIK high voltage stuff is all crimped. It's a mix, but mil-specs
certainly call for a high degree of support for all wiring.


In answer to your question whether proper mechanical crimping with an
adhesive heat seal is enough, I think that it meats the minimum
requirements. But I think that soldering before the heat shrink is
better.

I am a belt AND suspenders type of person.......


IMHO solder will fail long before a properly sized & properly done
crimp. It may be that this is due to people using cheap solder though.

As a stockholder in 3M Co, a few years back I suggested they pursue
marketing a dielectric adhesive sealant like 5200. Didn't hear back from
them.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King


"beaufortnc" wrote:


Hi,

In my quest for the "perfect" marine electrical connection, I've heard
and read a variety of opinions.

In general, most sources agree on the majority of subjects (tinned
wire/connectors, correct sizing, etc...)

However, when it comes to the subject of whether to solder connections
or not, it seems that there is some disagreement.

Are high quality mechanical connections, made with the proper tool, and
protected with adhesive heat shrink enough?

Some think that it isn't.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Mike.




  #7   Report Post  
Jeff Morris
 
Posts: n/a
Default

beaufortnc wrote:
Hi,

In my quest for the "perfect" marine electrical connection, I've heard
and read a variety of opinions.

In general, most sources agree on the majority of subjects (tinned
wire/connectors, correct sizing, etc...)

However, when it comes to the subject of whether to solder connections
or not, it seems that there is some disagreement.

Are high quality mechanical connections, made with the proper tool, and
protected with adhesive heat shrink enough?

Some think that it isn't.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Mike.

This one will go back and forth. Its important to remember that the
ABYC standard says: "Solder must not be the sole means of mechanical
connection in any circuit."

Further, if not properly supported, solder can reduce the strength of
the connection: "If soldered, the connection shall be so located or
supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder
changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor."

Personally, although I use solder on a few connections, I rely on a high
quality crimping tool for my panel connections.
  #8   Report Post  
Skipper
 
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However, when it comes to the subject of whether to solder connections
or not, it seems that there is some disagreement.

Are high quality mechanical connections, made with the proper tool, and
protected with adhesive heat shrink enough?

Any thoughts?


I replaced the two "C" batteries in my boat with a new bank of 8
six volt batteries. When I disconnected the old batteries, one of the
soldered terminals just fell off the wire. I tested a couple others
and I was able to pull most of them right off!
The terminals appeared to have been properly soldered and they were
all shrink wrapped. But the connections had failed.
I did some research and bought an inexpensive, mallet operated
crimper made by Ancor. I used it for all my crimps over 10 gauge wire.
It works perfectly and gives a good crimp every time. The research I
did says the pressure of the crimp actually welds the tinned wire to
the terminal.
Lots of people have told me to solder first and then crimp. I do
not think this is necessary. In fact, I think it might not give as
good a connection as the crimp by itself.
  #9   Report Post  
Lew Hodgett
 
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Default

Subject

If the terminal manufacturers wanted you to solder their terminals, they
would recommend you do it.

Lew
  #10   Report Post  
Tim
 
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Lots of people have told me to solder first and then crimp. I do
not think this is necessary. In fact, I think it might not give as
good a connection as the crimp by itself.


I think that's backwards. I always crimp then solder for the extra
assurance.


from the mixed bag of opinions here, it all still boils down to
personal experience.

Tim



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