"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 10:34:05 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bob" wrote in message
...

The next major project was to clean off the bottom of the boat so we
could
do a new bottom coat.

Between the blister repairs we did in our original,

We'll also be doing a new barrier coat - special paint which will keep
water
away from the fiberglass, which can aborb moisture, leading to
blisters,
later. We've taken most if not all of the barrier coat which was
applied
over a "peel job" (removing all the original gel coat, the factory
means
of
applying a barrier to the fiberglass during manufacture) at a very long
time
ago in a prior owner's history, during our blister repairs in our
initial
refit


Dear skip
please describe your bottom history.
im very interested in you "peel job" and "barrier coat" and blister
job... and how your bottom looks now?


You should be able to imagine the hapless "Flying Pig's" condition
yourself
if you've spent time in various boatyards.

"Flying Pig's" bottom, after having been stripped (peeled) of paint as
Skippy indicated he was doing, would look like a patchwork of
roundish-outlined epoxy blister repairs with some new smaller blisters
rearing their ugly heads in between. Also readily visible are the largish
repairs using polyester resin and matt where he's run aground several
times.
Most notable would be on the port side rounding of the bilge where the
"Pig"
lie on her side pounding on a rocky shelf in the Florida Keys that he
would
never have grounded on if he were paying attention to navigation. Also in
evidence would be way too many tired through hulls (probably about 12-18
all
told) for various unnecessary systems which through hulls probably ALL
need
replacing at this stage due to electrolysis, oxidation and galvanic
action.
Some of them are probably little more than soft lumps of patina at this
stage.

For a blistering boat bottom, a barrier coat is but a band aid that
doesn't
usually work so well as moisture already in the layup will remain there
under the barrier coat where it will still fester and pop up new blisters.
The only effective way to get rid of the moisture in the layup is to store
the boat on the hard in Canada where humidity is low and winters are
brutally cold. About two years of dry storage using heat lamps in the
summertime will dry out the soggy lay-up sufficiently so then and only
then
is an epoxy barrier coat of greater worth than dubious.

I hope this helps.

Wilbur Hubbard
Master of "Cut the Mustard" (no blisters-ever!)

Err Willie-boy, you seem remarkably ill advised..... perhaps a
subscription to one of the better boating magazines would be of
advantage. Rather then just trying to read the free magazines down at
the drugstore.
Cheers,


Um, Bruce, I am NOT ill-advised. The ONLY way to get the saturation out of
the laminate which causes the blisters in the first place is to dry it
thoroughly. The fastest way to dry it is a very low humidity environment.
Everybody knows that the colder it is the lower the humidity the air can
carry. Skippy's idea of spraying the bottom with fresh water is just plain
ludicrous and ignorant. You've got to view the hull that sits in the water
as a membrane. Anybody knows a membrane won't work as a membrane if it is
impermeable. This is the idea behind the barrier coat - impermeability. But,
if all you do is trap moisture in the laminate under an impermeable layer on
the water side you still get a soggy laminate from the inside as a membrane
will work from inside out just the same as from outside in. Very few boats
have a dry bilge. So, the only solution is to DRY the laminate thoroughly
and this can take up to two years in a low humidity, cold environment.
Checking the laminate with a moisture meter is the test. Never barrier coat
a laminate that isn't in compliance with a healthy dry laminate and if you
want to be thorough barrier coat the dry laminate both inside and out. Now,
run along, you're ignorance bothers me.

Wilbur Hubbard

"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...

Um, Bruce, I am NOT ill-advised. The ONLY way to get the saturation out of
the laminate which causes the blisters in the first place is to dry it
thoroughly. The fastest way to dry it is a very low humidity environment.
Everybody knows that the colder it is the lower the humidity the air can
carry. Skippy's idea of spraying the bottom with fresh water is just plain
ludicrous and ignorant. You've got to view the hull that sits in the water
as a membrane. Anybody knows a membrane won't work as a membrane if it is
impermeable. This is the idea behind the barrier coat - impermeability.
But, if all you do is trap moisture in the laminate under an impermeable
layer on the water side you still get a soggy laminate from the inside as
a membrane will work from inside out just the same as from outside in.
Very few boats have a dry bilge. So, the only solution is to DRY the
laminate thoroughly and this can take up to two years in a low humidity,
cold environment. Checking the laminate with a moisture meter is the test.
Never barrier coat a laminate that isn't in compliance with a healthy dry
laminate and if you want to be thorough barrier coat the dry laminate both
inside and out. Now, run along, you're ignorance bothers me.

Wilbur Hubbard


Nice try, Wilbur.

Do some research to see why you're wrong. I'll not be a pedant to tell you
why, but you are.

Humidity doesn't help - but you can wait a lifetime, and it won't be dry
until you do what's needed to remove what's causing the problem, the answer
to that being readily available in many sources if you'll just look.

L8R

Skip, not going to bother with the moisture meter again until I start with
the extraction process, but agreeing with you that it has to be gotten out
to make the barrier coat worth having...

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely nothing-half so
much worth doing as simply messing, messing-about-in-boats; messing about in
boats-or *with* boats.

In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's
the charm of it.

Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get
anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and
you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

Um, Bruce, I am NOT ill-advised. The ONLY way to get the saturation out of
the laminate........

Skippy's idea of spraying the bottom with fresh water is just plain
ludicrous and ignorant. You've got to view the hull that sits in the water
as a membrane. Anybody knows a membrane won't work as a membrane if it is
impermeable.

Wilbur Hubbard- Hide quoted text -

Youre close my esteamed friend. the point skip so demurely suggested
is the fluid that weeps to the surface as the hull "drys" must be
washed off with soap n water. Unless that fluid is removed the
"drying" process stops. Or so says a few people.



bob

"Bob" wrote in message
...

Um, Bruce, I am NOT ill-advised. The ONLY way to get the saturation out
of
the laminate........

Skippy's idea of spraying the bottom with fresh water is just plain
ludicrous and ignorant. You've got to view the hull that sits in the
water
as a membrane. Anybody knows a membrane won't work as a membrane if it is
impermeable.

Wilbur Hubbard- Hide quoted text -

Youre close my esteamed friend. the point skip so demurely suggested
is the fluid that weeps to the surface as the hull "drys" must be
washed off with soap n water. Unless that fluid is removed the
"drying" process stops. Or so says a few people.


Skippy is an idiot when it comes to anything that logical thinking must
address.

He hasn't a clue what osmosis means respecting a membrane. The fluid that
pushes out the blisters increases in volume because of osmosis. Part of that
fluid consists of water. That fluid is hydrophilic. If the water is removed
the fluid becomes a sticky solid. Only when water is allowed to get to it
does it become thin and 'watery' even though the color is usually quite
dark.

Evaporate all the water from this dark fluid and it becomes like tar. Then
put on a barrier coat on BOTH sides of the membrane - hull and the tar-like
residue will not be able to increase in volume and become thinner and it's
ability via osmosis to raise blisters is thwarted.

Spray ground out blisters all you want with water and it doesn't do one
thing to evaporate the water from the other osmotic fluid in the layup in
unblistered areas. How some people can be so myopic and unimaginative is
beyond understanding.

Wilbur Hubbard

"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...

Skippy is an idiot when it comes to anything that logical thinking must
address.


Wilbur Hubbard


Ahh, Wilbur...

Never one to admit a mistake, are you?

He hasn't a clue what osmosis means respecting a membrane. The fluid that
pushes out the blisters increases in volume because of osmosis. Part of
that fluid consists of water. That fluid is hydrophilic. If the water is
removed the fluid becomes a sticky solid. Only when water is allowed to
get to it does it become thin and 'watery' even though the color is
usually quite dark.


I believe I have a firm grasp on the concept of what is happening in blister
formation.

Evaporate all the water from this dark fluid and it becomes like tar. Then
put on a barrier coat on BOTH sides of the membrane - hull and the
tar-like residue will not be able to increase in volume and become thinner
and it's ability via osmosis to raise blisters is thwarted.


What you, in your refusal to release the grasp you have on your position,
overlook, is that if you don't get the stuff attracting the water OUT, it
will still be there, hidden below the surface - thus the high reading on the
moisture meter.

Spray ground out blisters all you want with water and it doesn't do one
thing to evaporate the water from the other osmotic fluid in the layup in
unblistered areas. How some people can be so myopic and unimaginative is
beyond understanding.


I'm not going to be spraying blisters which have been ground out - I'm going
to be spraying the entire hull.

So, LET the water get to it, to get it in solution, and to the surface,
where there's no obstruction (membrane to push against), and then wash it
off. Rinse, repeat, until you're satisfied.

I promised not to be a pedant, before, but do yourself a favor and look up
Pascoe Surveyors, for just one take on the subject. There's pictures to go
along with the proofs provided there. I'm going to be out of the loop for a
week starting tomorrow.

A much more detailed rebuttal would be my normal response, but your lignum
vitae skull doesn't warrant it :{))

L8R

Skip

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely nothing-half so
much worth doing as simply messing, messing-about-in-boats; messing about in
boats-or *with* boats.

In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's
the charm of it.

Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get
anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and
you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 20:13:51 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 10:34:05 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bob" wrote in message
...

The next major project was to clean off the bottom of the boat so we
could
do a new bottom coat.

Between the blister repairs we did in our original,

We'll also be doing a new barrier coat - special paint which will keep
water
away from the fiberglass, which can aborb moisture, leading to
blisters,
later. We've taken most if not all of the barrier coat which was
applied
over a "peel job" (removing all the original gel coat, the factory
means
of
applying a barrier to the fiberglass during manufacture) at a very long
time
ago in a prior owner's history, during our blister repairs in our
initial
refit


Dear skip
please describe your bottom history.
im very interested in you "peel job" and "barrier coat" and blister
job... and how your bottom looks now?


You should be able to imagine the hapless "Flying Pig's" condition
yourself
if you've spent time in various boatyards.

"Flying Pig's" bottom, after having been stripped (peeled) of paint as
Skippy indicated he was doing, would look like a patchwork of
roundish-outlined epoxy blister repairs with some new smaller blisters
rearing their ugly heads in between. Also readily visible are the largish
repairs using polyester resin and matt where he's run aground several
times.
Most notable would be on the port side rounding of the bilge where the
"Pig"
lie on her side pounding on a rocky shelf in the Florida Keys that he
would
never have grounded on if he were paying attention to navigation. Also in
evidence would be way too many tired through hulls (probably about 12-18
all
told) for various unnecessary systems which through hulls probably ALL
need
replacing at this stage due to electrolysis, oxidation and galvanic
action.
Some of them are probably little more than soft lumps of patina at this
stage.

For a blistering boat bottom, a barrier coat is but a band aid that
doesn't
usually work so well as moisture already in the layup will remain there
under the barrier coat where it will still fester and pop up new blisters.
The only effective way to get rid of the moisture in the layup is to store
the boat on the hard in Canada where humidity is low and winters are
brutally cold. About two years of dry storage using heat lamps in the
summertime will dry out the soggy lay-up sufficiently so then and only
then
is an epoxy barrier coat of greater worth than dubious.

I hope this helps.

Wilbur Hubbard
Master of "Cut the Mustard" (no blisters-ever!)

Err Willie-boy, you seem remarkably ill advised..... perhaps a
subscription to one of the better boating magazines would be of
advantage. Rather then just trying to read the free magazines down at
the drugstore.
Cheers,


Um, Bruce, I am NOT ill-advised. The ONLY way to get the saturation out of
the laminate which causes the blisters in the first place is to dry it
thoroughly. The fastest way to dry it is a very low humidity environment.
Everybody knows that the colder it is the lower the humidity the air can
carry. Skippy's idea of spraying the bottom with fresh water is just plain
ludicrous and ignorant. You've got to view the hull that sits in the water
as a membrane. Anybody knows a membrane won't work as a membrane if it is
impermeable. This is the idea behind the barrier coat - impermeability. But,
if all you do is trap moisture in the laminate under an impermeable layer on
the water side you still get a soggy laminate from the inside as a membrane
will work from inside out just the same as from outside in. Very few boats
have a dry bilge. So, the only solution is to DRY the laminate thoroughly
and this can take up to two years in a low humidity, cold environment.
Checking the laminate with a moisture meter is the test. Never barrier coat
a laminate that isn't in compliance with a healthy dry laminate and if you
want to be thorough barrier coat the dry laminate both inside and out. Now,
run along, you're ignorance bothers me.

Wilbur Hubbard



As I said, you need to read a better class of magazines.

Unfortunately osmosis is not the simple "dry it out" problem as some
people seem to think. Rather then a laminate saturated with water the
problem is caused by absorbed water which combined with chemicals
resident in the laminate form additional complex chemicals. Puncture
any osmosis blister and you can smell the vinegar like odor of the
chemical mix. The old idea of drying the hull failed as the resident
chemicals do not evaporate.

The quickest remedy is to wash the hull with fresh water which
dissolves the chemicals and removes them from the laminate. More
exactly a series of washdowns and drying (to remove the wash water) is
usually desirable as it removes the maximum amount of the chemicals
causing the osmosis.

Of course this is a very simple explanation of the problem and the
cure however remembering who the explanation is intended for I have
tried to keep things on a level that the reader may have some hope of
understanding.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 20:13:51 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 10:34:05 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bob" wrote in message
...

The next major project was to clean off the bottom of the boat so we
could
do a new bottom coat.

Between the blister repairs we did in our original,

We'll also be doing a new barrier coat - special paint which will
keep
water
away from the fiberglass, which can aborb moisture, leading to
blisters,
later. We've taken most if not all of the barrier coat which was
applied
over a "peel job" (removing all the original gel coat, the factory
means
of
applying a barrier to the fiberglass during manufacture) at a very
long
time
ago in a prior owner's history, during our blister repairs in our
initial
refit


Dear skip
please describe your bottom history.
im very interested in you "peel job" and "barrier coat" and blister
job... and how your bottom looks now?


You should be able to imagine the hapless "Flying Pig's" condition
yourself
if you've spent time in various boatyards.

"Flying Pig's" bottom, after having been stripped (peeled) of paint as
Skippy indicated he was doing, would look like a patchwork of
roundish-outlined epoxy blister repairs with some new smaller blisters
rearing their ugly heads in between. Also readily visible are the
largish
repairs using polyester resin and matt where he's run aground several
times.
Most notable would be on the port side rounding of the bilge where the
"Pig"
lie on her side pounding on a rocky shelf in the Florida Keys that he
would
never have grounded on if he were paying attention to navigation. Also
in
evidence would be way too many tired through hulls (probably about 12-18
all
told) for various unnecessary systems which through hulls probably ALL
need
replacing at this stage due to electrolysis, oxidation and galvanic
action.
Some of them are probably little more than soft lumps of patina at this
stage.

For a blistering boat bottom, a barrier coat is but a band aid that
doesn't
usually work so well as moisture already in the layup will remain there
under the barrier coat where it will still fester and pop up new
blisters.
The only effective way to get rid of the moisture in the layup is to
store
the boat on the hard in Canada where humidity is low and winters are
brutally cold. About two years of dry storage using heat lamps in the
summertime will dry out the soggy lay-up sufficiently so then and only
then
is an epoxy barrier coat of greater worth than dubious.

I hope this helps.

Wilbur Hubbard
Master of "Cut the Mustard" (no blisters-ever!)

Err Willie-boy, you seem remarkably ill advised..... perhaps a
subscription to one of the better boating magazines would be of
advantage. Rather then just trying to read the free magazines down at
the drugstore.
Cheers,


Um, Bruce, I am NOT ill-advised. The ONLY way to get the saturation out of
the laminate which causes the blisters in the first place is to dry it
thoroughly. The fastest way to dry it is a very low humidity environment.
Everybody knows that the colder it is the lower the humidity the air can
carry. Skippy's idea of spraying the bottom with fresh water is just plain
ludicrous and ignorant. You've got to view the hull that sits in the water
as a membrane. Anybody knows a membrane won't work as a membrane if it is
impermeable. This is the idea behind the barrier coat - impermeability.
But,
if all you do is trap moisture in the laminate under an impermeable layer
on
the water side you still get a soggy laminate from the inside as a
membrane
will work from inside out just the same as from outside in. Very few boats
have a dry bilge. So, the only solution is to DRY the laminate thoroughly
and this can take up to two years in a low humidity, cold environment.
Checking the laminate with a moisture meter is the test. Never barrier
coat
a laminate that isn't in compliance with a healthy dry laminate and if you
want to be thorough barrier coat the dry laminate both inside and out.
Now,
run along, you're ignorance bothers me.

Wilbur Hubbard



As I said, you need to read a better class of magazines.

Unfortunately osmosis is not the simple "dry it out" problem as some
people seem to think. Rather then a laminate saturated with water the
problem is caused by absorbed water which combined with chemicals
resident in the laminate form additional complex chemicals. Puncture
any osmosis blister and you can smell the vinegar like odor of the
chemical mix. The old idea of drying the hull failed as the resident
chemicals do not evaporate.

The quickest remedy is to wash the hull with fresh water which
dissolves the chemicals and removes them from the laminate. More
exactly a series of washdowns and drying (to remove the wash water) is
usually desirable as it removes the maximum amount of the chemicals
causing the osmosis.

Of course this is a very simple explanation of the problem and the
cure however remembering who the explanation is intended for I have
tried to keep things on a level that the reader may have some hope of
understanding.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)



You people are IDIOTS. You WON'T get water inside the laminate where the
osmotic fluid resides to dilute it and was it out by washing down the
outside of the hull with fresh water repeatedly any more than you'll get
water into your intestines by taking a shower. The hull is not permeable
unless there's a pressure gradient which is how an osmotic membrane works.
If your STUPID theory worked, then every time it rained you would see water
seeping into the gelcoat of your deck and you would see osmotic fluid
leeching out afterwards. Just why the **** do you morons think the osmotic
fluid that creates the blisters doesn't also blister the topsides and deck
if your totally retarded washdown theory was actually true?

How people can read some dumb article that makes no physical sense and then
believe it wholeheartedly without at least thinking about it logically
doesn't bode well for the state of intellect of todays so-called sailor.

Wilbur Hubbard

On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 13:33:16 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 20:13:51 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 10:34:05 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bob" wrote in message
...

The next major project was to clean off the bottom of the boat so we
could
do a new bottom coat.

Between the blister repairs we did in our original,

We'll also be doing a new barrier coat - special paint which will
keep
water
away from the fiberglass, which can aborb moisture, leading to
blisters,
later. We've taken most if not all of the barrier coat which was
applied
over a "peel job" (removing all the original gel coat, the factory
means
of
applying a barrier to the fiberglass during manufacture) at a very
long
time
ago in a prior owner's history, during our blister repairs in our
initial
refit


Dear skip
please describe your bottom history.
im very interested in you "peel job" and "barrier coat" and blister
job... and how your bottom looks now?


You should be able to imagine the hapless "Flying Pig's" condition
yourself
if you've spent time in various boatyards.

"Flying Pig's" bottom, after having been stripped (peeled) of paint as
Skippy indicated he was doing, would look like a patchwork of
roundish-outlined epoxy blister repairs with some new smaller blisters
rearing their ugly heads in between. Also readily visible are the
largish
repairs using polyester resin and matt where he's run aground several
times.
Most notable would be on the port side rounding of the bilge where the
"Pig"
lie on her side pounding on a rocky shelf in the Florida Keys that he
would
never have grounded on if he were paying attention to navigation. Also
in
evidence would be way too many tired through hulls (probably about 12-18
all
told) for various unnecessary systems which through hulls probably ALL
need
replacing at this stage due to electrolysis, oxidation and galvanic
action.
Some of them are probably little more than soft lumps of patina at this
stage.

For a blistering boat bottom, a barrier coat is but a band aid that
doesn't
usually work so well as moisture already in the layup will remain there
under the barrier coat where it will still fester and pop up new
blisters.
The only effective way to get rid of the moisture in the layup is to
store
the boat on the hard in Canada where humidity is low and winters are
brutally cold. About two years of dry storage using heat lamps in the
summertime will dry out the soggy lay-up sufficiently so then and only
then
is an epoxy barrier coat of greater worth than dubious.

I hope this helps.

Wilbur Hubbard
Master of "Cut the Mustard" (no blisters-ever!)

Err Willie-boy, you seem remarkably ill advised..... perhaps a
subscription to one of the better boating magazines would be of
advantage. Rather then just trying to read the free magazines down at
the drugstore.
Cheers,


Um, Bruce, I am NOT ill-advised. The ONLY way to get the saturation out of
the laminate which causes the blisters in the first place is to dry it
thoroughly. The fastest way to dry it is a very low humidity environment.
Everybody knows that the colder it is the lower the humidity the air can
carry. Skippy's idea of spraying the bottom with fresh water is just plain
ludicrous and ignorant. You've got to view the hull that sits in the water
as a membrane. Anybody knows a membrane won't work as a membrane if it is
impermeable. This is the idea behind the barrier coat - impermeability.
But,
if all you do is trap moisture in the laminate under an impermeable layer
on
the water side you still get a soggy laminate from the inside as a
membrane
will work from inside out just the same as from outside in. Very few boats
have a dry bilge. So, the only solution is to DRY the laminate thoroughly
and this can take up to two years in a low humidity, cold environment.
Checking the laminate with a moisture meter is the test. Never barrier
coat
a laminate that isn't in compliance with a healthy dry laminate and if you
want to be thorough barrier coat the dry laminate both inside and out.
Now,
run along, you're ignorance bothers me.

Wilbur Hubbard



As I said, you need to read a better class of magazines.

Unfortunately osmosis is not the simple "dry it out" problem as some
people seem to think. Rather then a laminate saturated with water the
problem is caused by absorbed water which combined with chemicals
resident in the laminate form additional complex chemicals. Puncture
any osmosis blister and you can smell the vinegar like odor of the
chemical mix. The old idea of drying the hull failed as the resident
chemicals do not evaporate.

The quickest remedy is to wash the hull with fresh water which
dissolves the chemicals and removes them from the laminate. More
exactly a series of washdowns and drying (to remove the wash water) is
usually desirable as it removes the maximum amount of the chemicals
causing the osmosis.

Of course this is a very simple explanation of the problem and the
cure however remembering who the explanation is intended for I have
tried to keep things on a level that the reader may have some hope of
understanding.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)



You people are IDIOTS. You WON'T get water inside the laminate where the
osmotic fluid resides to dilute it and was it out by washing down the
outside of the hull with fresh water repeatedly any more than you'll get
water into your intestines by taking a shower. The hull is not permeable
unless there's a pressure gradient which is how an osmotic membrane works.
If your STUPID theory worked, then every time it rained you would see water
seeping into the gelcoat of your deck and you would see osmotic fluid
leeching out afterwards. Just why the **** do you morons think the osmotic
fluid that creates the blisters doesn't also blister the topsides and deck
if your totally retarded washdown theory was actually true?

How people can read some dumb article that makes no physical sense and then
believe it wholeheartedly without at least thinking about it logically
doesn't bode well for the state of intellect of todays so-called sailor.

Wilbur Hubbard


Willie-boy, you remind me of the mother who, watching a parade, cried
out, "Look, Look everyone is out of step except my Willie".

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

How people can read some dumb article that makes no physical sense and then
believe it wholeheartedly without at least thinking about it logically
doesn't bode well for the state of intellect of todays so-called sailor.

Wilbur Hubbard


Y Dear Willbur:
On this one I believe that your information is outdated and
unfortuanlty your anger and arrogance has blinded you to the remote
possibility that there may be a "new-ish" re-think regarding bliser
origin and blister controll.

I agree with you my friend, hozing a hull will not cure or prevent
hull blisters. Unfortuanly your anger prevents you from an attempt to
understand Skipps tyoical rediculously long posts that lack tecnical
detail. IN this case you have to look for the key words that skip
uses. But then again Skip has done what he typicall did in he past:
half understood a concept, filled in the blanks with bull ****, nad
then proclaimed himself a demure and humble know-it-all. Actually now
that i think about it there is very little difernce between you and
skip.... oh there is one: skip is visiting places in his boat and you
are ______.

Do some more reading about the controll of hull blisers. The yard guys
in your area (the south??) may be just a bunch of variations on the
8th grade drop out coonass n dont have a clue.

bob

That is SO interesting.

I've always assumed Bob was another of Wilbur's sock puppets.

If so, it's a charming way to admit when you are wrong, Will.

And if not, well, sorry Bob...