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Default Resolution Starting issues inside October Ooops!

On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 20:39:38 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Thanks for all the commentary and helpful hints. Aside from the pain in the
wallet, my only niggle left is those banjo bolt crush washers. Fixing that
will no doubt help, along with keeping my engine pan dryer!


Clearly you've made some progress but don't stop working on it until
it starts the first time, every time. Using WD40 or any other
starting fluid is a really bad practice.

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Default Resolution Starting issues inside October Ooops!

Doing a bit of cat'ing he

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...
..

My understanding was that you had a 4 cylinder Perkins engine?
40107/4-108?? If so then you have a CV fuel injection system which
uses solid copper washers under banjo fittings.

Yes, that's (CV - actually, I think it's CAV) what we have, but it's a
4-154. However, I leapt to the conclusion that they were aluminum, as
that's the case on the return banjos on the injectors. None the less,
AID/NAPA doesn't have them. I'm trying local boat yards next, and a buddy
boat next to me in the harbor thinks he might have them for his 4-236; maybe
they're the right size.


Why an "expensive" starter battery? Why not a common ordinary truck or
auto battery. Wet cell, just check it once in a while,


$218 for a marine 1000CCA, see response about expensive in the Bahamas
earlier. I have a size limitation for where it can mount of 6.75" depth
(height and length don't matter) which makes truck batteries problematic,
even if they did (when I go to NAPA) have adapters to make a screw post.
However, I'm checking that out before I give up and cough up for a marine
one...

and...


"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...

Clearly you've made some progress but don't stop working on it until
it starts the first time, every time. Using WD40 or any other
starting fluid is a really bad practice.


Ya, I know. Just a test at the time. I'm intentionally running down the
house bank (yet to go get one of those expensive start batteries); so far
it's kicked right off at 80, 120, and 160AH down - the only time of
spritzing was that single instance.

That was just to see if it would turn over at all...

Meanwhile, for when I get back to the states, where's the best price on a
new (I'm keeping the old one for a spare) for a Delco 1107587 or equivalent?
Most of what I see is much smaller, with external (not as big on the inside,
therefore, meaning fewer horses and less life, as far as I'm concerned)
bolts rather than internal like the above...

L8R, yall

Skip, off to find another oil evacuation drill-driven pump as mine has quit
and the new spare I had doesn't work at all.


--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery!
Follow us at http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog and/or
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain







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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Aug 2009
Posts: 321
Default Resolution Starting issues inside October Ooops!

On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 12:51:52 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Doing a bit of cat'ing he

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
.

My understanding was that you had a 4 cylinder Perkins engine?
40107/4-108?? If so then you have a CV fuel injection system which
uses solid copper washers under banjo fittings.

Yes, that's (CV - actually, I think it's CAV) what we have, but it's a
4-154. However, I leapt to the conclusion that they were aluminum, as
that's the case on the return banjos on the injectors. None the less,
AID/NAPA doesn't have them. I'm trying local boat yards next, and a buddy
boat next to me in the harbor thinks he might have them for his 4-236; maybe
they're the right size.

Also check with any Japanese diesel places as many of the Japanese
engines use copper sealing washers.


Why an "expensive" starter battery? Why not a common ordinary truck or
auto battery. Wet cell, just check it once in a while,


$218 for a marine 1000CCA, see response about expensive in the Bahamas
earlier. I have a size limitation for where it can mount of 6.75" depth
(height and length don't matter) which makes truck batteries problematic,
even if they did (when I go to NAPA) have adapters to make a screw post.
However, I'm checking that out before I give up and cough up for a marine
one...

That is expensive! I use common, ordinary, truck batteries and if the
difference in price is what it appears to be I'd build a new battery
box :-) If I'm not mistaken you have a 4D battery - about 20 X 8 X 9
inches. About what every truck has two of :-)

and...


"Wayne.B" wrote in message
.. .

Clearly you've made some progress but don't stop working on it until
it starts the first time, every time. Using WD40 or any other
starting fluid is a really bad practice.


Ya, I know. Just a test at the time. I'm intentionally running down the
house bank (yet to go get one of those expensive start batteries); so far
it's kicked right off at 80, 120, and 160AH down - the only time of
spritzing was that single instance.

That was just to see if it would turn over at all...

Meanwhile, for when I get back to the states, where's the best price on a
new (I'm keeping the old one for a spare) for a Delco 1107587 or equivalent?
Most of what I see is much smaller, with external (not as big on the inside,
therefore, meaning fewer horses and less life, as far as I'm concerned)
bolts rather than internal like the above...

L8R, yall

Skip, off to find another oil evacuation drill-driven pump as mine has quit
and the new spare I had doesn't work at all.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Aug 2009
Posts: 321
Default Resolution Starting issues inside October Ooops!

On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 08:34:58 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 20:39:38 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Thanks for all the commentary and helpful hints. Aside from the pain in the
wallet, my only niggle left is those banjo bolt crush washers. Fixing that
will no doubt help, along with keeping my engine pan dryer!


Clearly you've made some progress but don't stop working on it until
it starts the first time, every time. Using WD40 or any other
starting fluid is a really bad practice.



I can attest to that fact from personal experience, and if he has one
of the 4 cylinder Perkins (4-107/4-108) the operator's manual
specifically warns against the use of starting fluids.

The reason (as I discovered) is that it can blow the pre-combustion
chambers into the cylinder which causes loud, expensive, noises.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Dec 2006
Posts: 796
Default Resolution Starting issues inside October Ooops!

Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 08:34:58 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 20:39:38 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Thanks for all the commentary and helpful hints. Aside from the pain in the
wallet, my only niggle left is those banjo bolt crush washers. Fixing that
will no doubt help, along with keeping my engine pan dryer!

Clearly you've made some progress but don't stop working on it until
it starts the first time, every time. Using WD40 or any other
starting fluid is a really bad practice.



I can attest to that fact from personal experience, and if he has one
of the 4 cylinder Perkins (4-107/4-108) the operator's manual
specifically warns against the use of starting fluids.

The reason (as I discovered) is that it can blow the pre-combustion
chambers into the cylinder which causes loud, expensive, noises.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)



Spray it on a rag and the the engine sniff the rag while cranking.
Avoids the loud expensive noises...

--

Richard Lamb
email me:
web site:
www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb



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