Hey my wife and I purchased a Columbia 29 Mk II and there is some
green slime on the walls of the aluminum water tank under the V-Berth
I was wondering what the best way to disinfect and clean it out.

Is there some sort of cleaner or bleach water mixture that we can put
in the tank to kill what ever is growing down there?

"silverdragon" wrote in message
...
Hey my wife and I purchased a Columbia 29 Mk II and there is some
green slime on the walls of the aluminum water tank under the V-Berth
I was wondering what the best way to disinfect and clean it out.

Is there some sort of cleaner or bleach water mixture that we can put
in the tank to kill what ever is growing down there?




Yes there is. Put a cup of household bleach (non-scented) into it, fill it
to the top and let it sit a day or two. Then pump or drain it all out.
Refill with fresh water.

On the other hand, you might consider just leaving it be.

I drink water out of my bicycle water bottle daily, the insides of which are
green with algae. I never bleach it out. I figure the algae puts extra
oxygen in the water and I like the taste of algae water better than plastic
water. The algae seems to coat the plastic and the water tastes great. It
goes down smooth. But, I was raised on a farm in the Midwest with cisterns
for drinking water filled by galvanized steel barn roofs. Dug deep into the
red clay and lined with stacked white stones - no concrete. We had algae,
frogs and fish in our cisterns but never have I had better tasting water
than rain water-filled, bio-diverse cistern water.

People these days have a fetish about their water. They need to get over it.


Wilbur Hubbard

On Apr 16, 2:32*pm, silverdragon wrote:
Hey my wife and I purchased a Columbia 29 Mk II and there is some
green slime on the walls of the aluminum water tank under the V-Berth
I was wondering what the best way to disinfect and clean it out.

Is there some sort of cleaner or bleach water mixture that we can put
in the tank to kill what ever is growing down there?


Any chemists here?????
Al + Cl = _________

Do yourself a favor. Toss the aluminum tanks and replace with 316L.
ANd DONT "shock treat" your alumunium tank with clorine bleach.
Thats to short of it.
Robin Rexroth
Dell tech Support
Provo, UT

Bob wrote:
On Apr 16, 2:32 pm, silverdragon wrote:
Hey my wife and I purchased a Columbia 29 Mk II and there is some
green slime on the walls of the aluminum water tank under the V-Berth
I was wondering what the best way to disinfect and clean it out.

Is there some sort of cleaner or bleach water mixture that we can put
in the tank to kill what ever is growing down there?


Any chemists here?????
Al + Cl = _________

Do yourself a favor. Toss the aluminum tanks and replace with 316L.
ANd DONT "shock treat" your alumunium tank with clorine bleach.

Do yourself a much bigger favor. With used boats, if ever you can, by
hook or crook, muster up all your wisdom, all your courage, and don't
ever turn a tiny, inexpensive job into a giant, expensive job unless you
have a very good reason. There will be more than enough of those to go
around. So unless Bob here give us a very good reason not to use the
well accepted bleach method, ignore him.

Stephen

"Stephen Trapani" wrote in message
...
Bob wrote:
On Apr 16, 2:32 pm, silverdragon wrote:
Hey my wife and I purchased a Columbia 29 Mk II and there is some
green slime on the walls of the aluminum water tank under the V-Berth
I was wondering what the best way to disinfect and clean it out.

Is there some sort of cleaner or bleach water mixture that we can put
in the tank to kill what ever is growing down there?


Any chemists here?????
Al + Cl = _________

Do yourself a favor. Toss the aluminum tanks and replace with 316L.
ANd DONT "shock treat" your alumunium tank with clorine bleach.

Do yourself a much bigger favor. With used boats, if ever you can, by hook
or crook, muster up all your wisdom, all your courage, and don't ever turn
a tiny, inexpensive job into a giant, expensive job unless you have a very
good reason. There will be more than enough of those to go around. So
unless Bob here give us a very good reason not to use the well accepted
bleach method, ignore him.

Stephen

Peggy Hall says 1 cup per 10 gallons. Works for me.
http://www.searoom.com/fresh_water.htm

On Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:32:57 -0700 (PDT), silverdragon
wrote:

Hey my wife and I purchased a Columbia 29 Mk II and there is some
green slime on the walls of the aluminum water tank under the V-Berth
I was wondering what the best way to disinfect and clean it out.

Is there some sort of cleaner or bleach water mixture that we can put
in the tank to kill what ever is growing down there?

Peggy once posted a complete set of instructions about just this. And,
Ta! Da! here is:

Jim, wrote:
I just traded boats, and the new (to me) one has what appears to be a
stainless water tank (my old boat had plastic). In the past I'd fill
the tank and add a glug of Clorox to it to kill any bugs that might have
joined me during the interim.

Something in the dark recesses of my brain says Stainless and Clorox
don't mix.

Comments; Suggestions please!
I saved this from Peggy last year.

Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is
actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew,
fungi
and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under
water.

There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water
fresh, but all that\u2019s really necessary is an annual or in
especially
warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire
system\u2014tank and
plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the
A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of
recreational
vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health
officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not
been
used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not
turn
it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water
feed
line; however the first two buckets of ice\u2014the bucket generated
during
recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be
discarded.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup
(4
oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution
).
With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of
solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. (There's an easier way:
one pint of bleach to each 25 gal water tank capacity.)

2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and
drain
cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do
not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system
pressurized
and the solution in the lines

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24
hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this
in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the
faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the
tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on
the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare
a
solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow
this
solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.

6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by
fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission
aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it\u2019s
effects are
are cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock
treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding
chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a
good
idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water
before
putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.

People have also expressed concern about the potential damage to
rubber
and neoprene water pump parts. Again\u2014the cumulative effect of
carrying
chlorinated water is far more damaging over time than the occasional
\u201cshock treatment.\u201d And it\u2019s that cumulative effect that
makes it a VERY
bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage
the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and
smell
like a laundry, it\u2019s not enough to do any good. Even if it were,
any
\u201cpurifying\u201d properties in chlorine evaporate within 24
hours, leaving
behind only the corrosive properties.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above
directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting
and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land.
If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember
that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and
that
filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.

To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep
water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only
start
to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each
time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes
first...the
same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply
line
and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want
to
transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your
boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the
water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is
coming straight from the water main.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

On Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:52:48 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"silverdragon" wrote in message
...
Hey my wife and I purchased a Columbia 29 Mk II and there is some
green slime on the walls of the aluminum water tank under the V-Berth
I was wondering what the best way to disinfect and clean it out.

Is there some sort of cleaner or bleach water mixture that we can put
in the tank to kill what ever is growing down there?




Yes there is. Put a cup of household bleach (non-scented) into it, fill it
to the top and let it sit a day or two. Then pump or drain it all out.
Refill with fresh water.

On the other hand, you might consider just leaving it be.

I drink water out of my bicycle water bottle daily, the insides of which are
green with algae. I never bleach it out. I figure the algae puts extra
oxygen in the water and I like the taste of algae water better than plastic
water. The algae seems to coat the plastic and the water tastes great. It
goes down smooth. But, I was raised on a farm in the Midwest with cisterns
for drinking water filled by galvanized steel barn roofs. Dug deep into the
red clay and lined with stacked white stones - no concrete. We had algae,
frogs and fish in our cisterns but never have I had better tasting water
than rain water-filled, bio-diverse cistern water.

People these days have a fetish about their water. They need to get over it.


Wilbur Hubbard


It sort of reminds me of the story about the UN Group that was
stationed in Arabia, at a desert oasis.

The oasis had a great pool of water that was never failing and Arabs
came from miles around to take the waters. Of course the watering hole
served the local village as a source of water for washing, bathing,
watering the herds and even for bad little boys to play in, and the
camels and goats did what camels do and goats do what goats do, and
mothers washed little babies that have done what they do and the dirty
little boys often had contests to see who could do what dirty little
boys do, further, and the waters in the never failing pool had a
certain color and odor.

The UN Team after viewing the sole water source for the entire area
with horror and amid much report writing in which terms like cholera
and water born diseases were mentioned, gained approval to make a new
water source and contracted with a well drilling company who flew a
drilling rig in and set up.

For weeks and weeks they drilled and at last one day; water! A stream
of clear, fresh, sparkling, cold water flowed form the well head, and
the UN Group was proud and wrote reports on the successful surmounting
of yet another age old problem.

Some days later the Group noticed that not a single Arab was using the
new, clear, fresh, sparkling, cold water and sent an emissary to
question the ruling Sheikh as to what was going on. The Sheikh simply
said, "the water has no flavor, it may not be good".
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Bruce wrote:
On Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:32:57 -0700 (PDT), silverdragon
wrote:

Hey my wife and I purchased a Columbia 29 Mk II and there is some
green slime on the walls of the aluminum water tank under the V-Berth
I was wondering what the best way to disinfect and clean it out.

Is there some sort of cleaner or bleach water mixture that we can put
in the tank to kill what ever is growing down there?

Peggy once posted a complete set of instructions about just this. And,
Ta! Da! here is:

Jim, wrote:
I just traded boats, and the new (to me) one has what appears to be a
stainless water tank (my old boat had plastic). In the past I'd fill
the tank and add a glug of Clorox to it to kill any bugs that might have
joined me during the interim.

Something in the dark recesses of my brain says Stainless and Clorox
don't mix.

Comments; Suggestions please!
I saved this from Peggy last year.

Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is
actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew,
fungi
and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under
water.

There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water
fresh, but all that\u2019s really necessary is an annual or in
especially
warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire
system\u2014tank and
plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the
A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of
recreational
vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health
officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not
been
used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not
turn
it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water
feed
line; however the first two buckets of ice\u2014the bucket generated
during
recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be
discarded.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup
(4
oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution
).
With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of
solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. (There's an easier way:
one pint of bleach to each 25 gal water tank capacity.)

2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and
drain
cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do
not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system
pressurized
and the solution in the lines

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24
hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this
in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the
faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the
tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on
the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare
a
solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow
this
solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.

6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by
fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission
aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it\u2019s
effects are
are cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock
treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding
chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a
good
idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water
before
putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.

People have also expressed concern about the potential damage to
rubber
and neoprene water pump parts. Again\u2014the cumulative effect of
carrying
chlorinated water is far more damaging over time than the occasional
\u201cshock treatment.\u201d And it\u2019s that cumulative effect that
makes it a VERY
bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage
the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and
smell
like a laundry, it\u2019s not enough to do any good. Even if it were,
any
\u201cpurifying\u201d properties in chlorine evaporate within 24
hours, leaving
behind only the corrosive properties.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above
directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting
and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land.
If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember
that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and
that
filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.

To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep
water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only
start
to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each
time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes
first...the
same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply
line
and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want
to
transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your
boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the
water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is
coming straight from the water main.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
Am I glad to live in a country with NO bleach in tap water......
Even the icecubes in restaurants in the US smell like diluted bleach.

On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 03:59:41 +0200, Sjouke Burry
wrote:

Bruce wrote:
On Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:32:57 -0700 (PDT), silverdragon
wrote:

Hey my wife and I purchased a Columbia 29 Mk II and there is some
green slime on the walls of the aluminum water tank under the V-Berth
I was wondering what the best way to disinfect and clean it out.

Is there some sort of cleaner or bleach water mixture that we can put
in the tank to kill what ever is growing down there?

Peggy once posted a complete set of instructions about just this. And,
Ta! Da! here is:

Jim, wrote:
I just traded boats, and the new (to me) one has what appears to be a
stainless water tank (my old boat had plastic). In the past I'd fill
the tank and add a glug of Clorox to it to kill any bugs that might have
joined me during the interim.

Something in the dark recesses of my brain says Stainless and Clorox
don't mix.

Comments; Suggestions please!
I saved this from Peggy last year.

Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is
actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew,
fungi
and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under
water.

There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water
fresh, but all that\u2019s really necessary is an annual or in
especially
warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire
system\u2014tank and
plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the
A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of
recreational
vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health
officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not
been
used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not
turn
it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water
feed
line; however the first two buckets of ice\u2014the bucket generated
during
recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be
discarded.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup
(4
oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution
).
With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of
solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. (There's an easier way:
one pint of bleach to each 25 gal water tank capacity.)

2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and
drain
cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do
not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system
pressurized
and the solution in the lines

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24
hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this
in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the
faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the
tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on
the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare
a
solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow
this
solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.

6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by
fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission
aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it\u2019s
effects are
are cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock
treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding
chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a
good
idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water
before
putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.

People have also expressed concern about the potential damage to
rubber
and neoprene water pump parts. Again\u2014the cumulative effect of
carrying
chlorinated water is far more damaging over time than the occasional
\u201cshock treatment.\u201d And it\u2019s that cumulative effect that
makes it a VERY
bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage
the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and
smell
like a laundry, it\u2019s not enough to do any good. Even if it were,
any
\u201cpurifying\u201d properties in chlorine evaporate within 24
hours, leaving
behind only the corrosive properties.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above
directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting
and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land.
If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember
that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and
that
filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.

To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep
water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only
start
to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each
time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes
first...the
same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply
line
and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want
to
transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your
boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the
water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is
coming straight from the water main.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
Am I glad to live in a country with NO bleach in tap water......
Even the icecubes in restaurants in the US smell like diluted bleach.


Oh? How do they sanitize the water in your country?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Bruce wrote:
On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 03:59:41 +0200, Sjouke Burry
wrote:

Bruce wrote:
On Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:32:57 -0700 (PDT), silverdragon
wrote:

Hey my wife and I purchased a Columbia 29 Mk II and there is some
green slime on the walls of the aluminum water tank under the V-Berth
I was wondering what the best way to disinfect and clean it out.

Is there some sort of cleaner or bleach water mixture that we can put
in the tank to kill what ever is growing down there?
Peggy once posted a complete set of instructions about just this. And,
Ta! Da! here is:

Jim, wrote:
I just traded boats, and the new (to me) one has what appears to be a
stainless water tank (my old boat had plastic). In the past I'd fill
the tank and add a glug of Clorox to it to kill any bugs that might have
joined me during the interim.

Something in the dark recesses of my brain says Stainless and Clorox
don't mix.

Comments; Suggestions please!
I saved this from Peggy last year.

Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is
actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew,
fungi
and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under
water.

There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water
fresh, but all that\u2019s really necessary is an annual or in
especially
warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire
system\u2014tank and
plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the
A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of
recreational
vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health
officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not
been
used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not
turn
it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water
feed
line; however the first two buckets of ice\u2014the bucket generated
during
recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be
discarded.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup
(4
oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution
).
With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of
solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. (There's an easier way:
one pint of bleach to each 25 gal water tank capacity.)

2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and
drain
cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do
not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system
pressurized
and the solution in the lines

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24
hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this
in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the
faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the
tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on
the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare
a
solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow
this
solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.

6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by
fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission
aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it\u2019s
effects are
are cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock
treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding
chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a
good
idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water
before
putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.

People have also expressed concern about the potential damage to
rubber
and neoprene water pump parts. Again\u2014the cumulative effect of
carrying
chlorinated water is far more damaging over time than the occasional
\u201cshock treatment.\u201d And it\u2019s that cumulative effect that
makes it a VERY
bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage
the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and
smell
like a laundry, it\u2019s not enough to do any good. Even if it were,
any
\u201cpurifying\u201d properties in chlorine evaporate within 24
hours, leaving
behind only the corrosive properties.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above
directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting
and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land.
If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember
that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and
that
filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.

To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep
water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only
start
to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each
time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes
first...the
same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply
line
and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want
to
transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your
boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the
water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is
coming straight from the water main.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
Am I glad to live in a country with NO bleach in tap water......
Even the icecubes in restaurants in the US smell like diluted bleach.


Oh? How do they sanitize the water in your country?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Carefully.
The best quality in Europe.(Netherlands)