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#1
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Help with fridge
On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 14:28:21 -0800 (PST), Longkeel35
wrote: my fridge has lost the gas, it is a danfoss Bd50F compressor that only seems to have one service port. Is this normal? My fridge troubleshooting book says there should be 2. Do I hook up just the suction hose of the manifold gauge to this? Also do I need a vacume pump to remove air or can I use the compressor to do this. Which side of the pump is the port on? The suction or the pressure side? Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
#2
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Help with fridge
Which side of the pump is the port on? The suction or the pressure side? Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) in the manual it states that it is the suction service port Steve |
#3
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Help with fridge
On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 22:38:59 -0800 (PST), Longkeel35
wrote: Which side of the pump is the port on? The suction or the pressure side? Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) in the manual it states that it is the suction service port Steve Then you *could* use that port for servicing. To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system. Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
#4
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Help with fridge
On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote: To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system. Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time. |
#5
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Help with fridge
On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote: On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok wrote: To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system. Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time. Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-) Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
#6
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Help with fridge
On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote: On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B wrote: On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok wrote: To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system. Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time. Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-) Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer. Here's one. http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay. I've only done automotive. All the leaks but two I've run I've run across are compressor shaft seals, which means it's time to buy a new compressor. Found a leaky o-ring on a drier once. Easy fix. Another time the condenser was holed. Almost $300 later with a new condenser I still didn't get it blowing cold as the compressor was probably shot. Gave up on that as it was an old car not far from the boneyard. But an example of wasting money there, so keep that in mind. I have an evac pump and good gage set. If you are inclined to do this it can pay off. A decent evac pump and gage set total a bit less than $200. And they take up some space, so might not be practical to carry along if space is an issue. But learn the basics. And you still need to handle a wrench. I don't like putting stop leak in any system, but it seems most of the R134 cans at auto stores come with it, so I've done it in a pinch. --Vic |
#7
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Help with fridge
On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:28:02 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote: On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok wrote: On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B wrote: On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok wrote: To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system. Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time. Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-) Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer. Here's one. http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay. I've only done automotive. I had a couple of jobs maintaining a small fleet of vehicles. We use the refrigerant with dye any time we had to re-charge a system. It didn't fix anything by itself but it sure saves time when it came back for service :-) "Eh! Look it's all red there". :-) Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
#8
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Help with fridge
On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:28:02 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote: On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok wrote: On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B wrote: On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok wrote: To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system. Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time. Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-) Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer. Here's one. http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay. I've only done automotive. All the leaks but two I've run I've run across are compressor shaft seals, which means it's time to buy a new compressor. Found a leaky o-ring on a drier once. Easy fix. Another time the condenser was holed. Almost $300 later with a new condenser I still didn't get it blowing cold as the compressor was probably shot. Gave up on that as it was an old car not far from the boneyard. But an example of wasting money there, so keep that in mind. I have an evac pump and good gage set. If you are inclined to do this it can pay off. A decent evac pump and gage set total a bit less than $200. And they take up some space, so might not be practical to carry along if space is an issue. But learn the basics. And you still need to handle a wrench. I don't like putting stop leak in any system, but it seems most of the R134 cans at auto stores come with it, so I've done it in a pinch. --Vic I still have the case of R-12 I bought for $1.80 a can. Nothing ever leaked, and I still have it all. Wonder what it is worth. Casady |
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