On Mon, 11 Jan 2010 10:06:34 -0600, Richard Casady
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:28:02 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's
gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-)

Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV
light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer.
Here's one.
http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html
I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I
looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay.
I've only done automotive.
All the leaks but two I've run I've run across are compressor shaft
seals, which means it's time to buy a new compressor.
Found a leaky o-ring on a drier once. Easy fix.
Another time the condenser was holed.
Almost $300 later with a new condenser I still didn't get it blowing
cold as the compressor was probably shot. Gave up on that as it was
an old car not far from the boneyard.
But an example of wasting money there, so keep that in mind.
I have an evac pump and good gage set.
If you are inclined to do this it can pay off. A decent evac pump and
gage set total a bit less than $200.
And they take up some space, so might not be practical to carry along
if space is an issue.
But learn the basics. And you still need to handle a wrench.
I don't like putting stop leak in any system, but it seems most of the
R134 cans at auto stores come with it, so I've done it in a pinch.

--Vic

I still have the case of R-12 I bought for $1.80 a can. Nothing ever
leaked, and I still have it all. Wonder what it is worth.

Casady

It seems to be quite common over here. My previous truck had R-12 in
the system and when I had problems I just took it to the shop. No
questions, just connected the bottle and recharged it. Seems to be
plenty of the stuff around in these benighted 3rd world countries :-)

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

"Richard Casady" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:28:02 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's
gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-)

Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV
light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer.
Here's one.
http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html
I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I
looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay.
I've only done automotive.
All the leaks but two I've run I've run across are compressor shaft
seals, which means it's time to buy a new compressor.
Found a leaky o-ring on a drier once. Easy fix.
Another time the condenser was holed.
Almost $300 later with a new condenser I still didn't get it blowing
cold as the compressor was probably shot. Gave up on that as it was
an old car not far from the boneyard.
But an example of wasting money there, so keep that in mind.
I have an evac pump and good gage set.
If you are inclined to do this it can pay off. A decent evac pump and
gage set total a bit less than $200.
And they take up some space, so might not be practical to carry along
if space is an issue.
But learn the basics. And you still need to handle a wrench.
I don't like putting stop leak in any system, but it seems most of the
R134 cans at auto stores come with it, so I've done it in a pinch.

--Vic

I still have the case of R-12 I bought for $1.80 a can. Nothing ever
leaked, and I still have it all. Wonder what it is worth.

Casady


Richard,
A case of 12, 12oz cans of R-12 costs about $360.00usd
A 30 lb cylinder of R-12 runs about 700 bucks.

Regards,
JR

"BuckMulligan" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...
On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:28:02 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's
gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-)

Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV
light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer.
Here's one.
http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html
I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I
looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay.
I've only done automotive.
All the leaks but two I've run I've run across are compressor shaft
seals, which means it's time to buy a new compressor.
Found a leaky o-ring on a drier once. Easy fix.
Another time the condenser was holed.
Almost $300 later with a new condenser I still didn't get it blowing
cold as the compressor was probably shot. Gave up on that as it was
an old car not far from the boneyard.
But an example of wasting money there, so keep that in mind.
I have an evac pump and good gage set.
If you are inclined to do this it can pay off. A decent evac pump and
gage set total a bit less than $200.
And they take up some space, so might not be practical to carry along
if space is an issue.
But learn the basics. And you still need to handle a wrench.
I don't like putting stop leak in any system, but it seems most of the
R134 cans at auto stores come with it, so I've done it in a pinch.

--Vic

I still have the case of R-12 I bought for $1.80 a can. Nothing ever
leaked, and I still have it all. Wonder what it is worth.

Casady

Jail time.


Not if you are licensed
Regards,
JR

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 11 Jan 2010 10:06:34 -0600, Richard Casady
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:28:02 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's
gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-)

Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV
light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer.
Here's one.
http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html
I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I
looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay.
I've only done automotive.
All the leaks but two I've run I've run across are compressor shaft
seals, which means it's time to buy a new compressor.
Found a leaky o-ring on a drier once. Easy fix.
Another time the condenser was holed.
Almost $300 later with a new condenser I still didn't get it blowing
cold as the compressor was probably shot. Gave up on that as it was
an old car not far from the boneyard.
But an example of wasting money there, so keep that in mind.
I have an evac pump and good gage set.
If you are inclined to do this it can pay off. A decent evac pump and
gage set total a bit less than $200.
And they take up some space, so might not be practical to carry along
if space is an issue.
But learn the basics. And you still need to handle a wrench.
I don't like putting stop leak in any system, but it seems most of the
R134 cans at auto stores come with it, so I've done it in a pinch.

--Vic

I still have the case of R-12 I bought for $1.80 a can. Nothing ever
leaked, and I still have it all. Wonder what it is worth.

Casady

It seems to be quite common over here. My previous truck had R-12 in
the system and when I had problems I just took it to the shop. No
questions, just connected the bottle and recharged it. Seems to be
plenty of the stuff around in these benighted 3rd world countries :-)

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

There is plenty in the US too.
I get mine from Coolgas in Magnolia, TX

Regards,
JR