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#11
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Repairing Dinghy Oar
On Mon, 27 Apr 2009 20:40:09 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote: Probably not. You could guild the lily with a blade tip wrap in glass/epoxy, and varnish overall.... When I was a kid fifty years ago we had a kayak paddle around the lake place. Varnished with copper on the tips. |
#12
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Repairing Dinghy Oar
Richard Casady wrote:
On Mon, 27 Apr 2009 20:40:09 -0500, Brian Whatcott wrote: Probably not. You could guild the lily with a blade tip wrap in glass/epoxy, and varnish overall.... When I was a kid fifty years ago we had a kayak paddle around the lake place. Varnished with copper on the tips. I made a wood and canvas kayak as a kid - but I went to buy a kayak paddle. Wood shafts and blades, with brass connectors, but copper clad tips were not to be had - so I went with glass wrapped blade tips. Later, tipped a passenger into the (shallow) water when I tried to stand up - in a kayak! (dumb, dumb, dumb...) Brian W |
#13
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Repairing Dinghy Oar
wrote in message ... On Tue, 28 Apr 2009 18:23:41 +0200, "Edgar" wrote: "mmc" wrote in message ting.com... "Derek Lawler" wrote in message .. . What would be the best glue to repair the wooden blade of an oar? I was going to use epoxy glue but is there another good or better alternative? Thanks. Derek From my experience, an epoxy glued junction (where the 2 pieces of wood broke) is stronger than the surrounding wood. Might not hold true with true hardwoods, but that's the way it is with teak, mahogany, fir, pine, spruce...... Teak is a bit doubtful for ordinary epoxy resin since it is an oily sort of wood. A resorcinol based adhesive is recommended for teak (and oak) instead of the usual epoxy resin. Only trouble with this is that it is very dark in colour and o the glue line will be quite visible under varnish.. I've had no problem using epoxy on teak, even for laminations where the pieces are under tension from being bent. Just wipe the surface down with acetone immediately before applying the epoxy and clamping. The epoxy must have filler in it, and you must use a slow hardner. Any epoxy joints exposed to UV must be protected to prevent deterioration. I want to thank everyone that responded. I went ahead and glued the de-laminated slice after sanding the surface thoroughly. I used some old epoxy two part glue that set up rather sticky but looks as though it will hold. Will have to scrape off the surplus to paint over it with white acrylic. Derek |
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