View Single Post
  #13   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats.cruising
Derek Lawler Derek Lawler is offline
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Apr 2009
Posts: 2
Default Repairing Dinghy Oar


wrote in message
...
On Tue, 28 Apr 2009 18:23:41 +0200, "Edgar"
wrote:


"mmc" wrote in message
ting.com...

"Derek Lawler" wrote in message
.. .
What would be the best glue to repair the wooden blade of an oar? I was
going to use epoxy glue but is there another good or better
alternative?
Thanks.
Derek

From my experience, an epoxy glued junction (where the 2 pieces of wood
broke) is stronger than the surrounding wood. Might not hold true with
true hardwoods, but that's the way it is with teak, mahogany, fir, pine,
spruce......

Teak is a bit doubtful for ordinary epoxy resin since it is an oily sort
of
wood.
A resorcinol based adhesive is recommended for teak (and oak) instead of
the usual epoxy resin. Only trouble with this is that it is very dark in
colour and o the glue line will be quite visible under varnish..


I've had no problem using epoxy on teak, even for laminations where
the pieces are under tension from being bent. Just wipe the surface
down with acetone immediately before applying the epoxy and clamping.
The epoxy must have filler in it, and you must use a slow hardner.

Any epoxy joints exposed to UV must be protected to prevent
deterioration.



I want to thank everyone that responded. I went ahead and glued the
de-laminated slice after sanding the surface thoroughly. I used some old
epoxy two part glue that set up rather sticky but looks as though it will
hold. Will have to scrape off the surplus to paint over it with white
acrylic.
Derek