Comments below.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Doug Dotson wrote:
Not sure how grease etc is going to leap out of the galley sink into
the vent

Prob'ly won't if you never fill the sink to wash dishes or allow any
dirty dishwater to go down the drain.

You don't understand how the vents are installed. They are not
plumbed into the drains. Just empty into the basins.

Our tanks are vented into the head sinks via a spout in
each. Easy to see when the tanks are full when filling...

As long as you're in the head while they're filling... or there's no
plug in the sink if you aren't.

I suppose that not leaving a plug in the drains is a requirement.
Not really a problem.

I think the vent should go out the hull. But hey...they're YOUR boats,
so whatever floats 'em for YOU is fine with me.

To be really safe, put them in the cockit. That way they will drain
out the scuppers and not be so prone to taking in sal****er. Another
option is to put them up the mast a bit. I know someone that did this.
Overflow will go out the fill rather than out the vent. Problem solved
forever.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1

Doug Dotson wrote:

To be really safe, put them in the cockit. That way they will drain
out the scuppers and not be so prone to taking in sal****er. Another
option is to put them up the mast a bit. I know someone that did this.
Overflow will go out the fill rather than out the vent. Problem solved
forever.

I set my water tank vents on the outside of the cockpit coaming just
down hill from the deck fill. When the tank is full water flows across
the side deck and out the scupper. You do have to be careful to locate
the vents so that the overflow will not flow back into the deck fill.

Chartered a boat once that had the vent lines run up inside the
stantions with a vent hole just under the top lifeline. Worked great
but if you were holding the hose when the tank overflowed it would spray
you in the face. :-)


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Air vents for the water tanks are just for venting air (to allow air to
enter when water is being pumped out and to allow air to escape when
filling the tank) not for water escape. If you are using them for water
escape, be very careful. WHen filling the tanks you better NOT have too
much pressure. Even .5 psi can put a lot of pressure on the tops of
tanks - 2'x 5'lid = 24"x 60" = 1440 sq in x .5= 720 pound of pressure,
enough to cause the lid to buckle and separate.

When filling, we always remove the input vent on the top of our tanks
and 'watch' the water filling. Even the exhaust vent in the tanks can
cause pressure.


Hanz

Glenn Ashmore wrote:


Doug Dotson wrote:

To be really safe, put them in the cockit. That way they will drain
out the scuppers and not be so prone to taking in sal****er. Another
option is to put them up the mast a bit. I know someone that did this.
Overflow will go out the fill rather than out the vent. Problem solved
forever.


I set my water tank vents on the outside of the cockpit coaming just
down hill from the deck fill. When the tank is full water flows across
the side deck and out the scupper. You do have to be careful to locate
the vents so that the overflow will not flow back into the deck fill.

Chartered a boat once that had the vent lines run up inside the
stantions with a vent hole just under the top lifeline. Worked great
but if you were holding the hose when the tank overflowed it would spray
you in the face. :-)

Not likely that too much pressure can build in the vent while
overflowing out the fill.

Doug
s/v Callista

"hanz" wrote in message
...
Air vents for the water tanks are just for venting air (to allow air to
enter when water is being pumped out and to allow air to escape when
filling the tank) not for water escape. If you are using them for water
escape, be very careful. WHen filling the tanks you better NOT have too
much pressure. Even .5 psi can put a lot of pressure on the tops of
tanks - 2'x 5'lid = 24"x 60" = 1440 sq in x .5= 720 pound of pressure,
enough to cause the lid to buckle and separate.

When filling, we always remove the input vent on the top of our tanks
and 'watch' the water filling. Even the exhaust vent in the tanks can
cause pressure.


Hanz

Glenn Ashmore wrote:


Doug Dotson wrote:

To be really safe, put them in the cockit. That way they will drain
out the scuppers and not be so prone to taking in sal****er. Another
option is to put them up the mast a bit. I know someone that did this.
Overflow will go out the fill rather than out the vent. Problem solved
forever.


I set my water tank vents on the outside of the cockpit coaming just
down hill from the deck fill. When the tank is full water flows across
the side deck and out the scupper. You do have to be careful to locate
the vents so that the overflow will not flow back into the deck fill.

Chartered a boat once that had the vent lines run up inside the
stantions with a vent hole just under the top lifeline. Worked great
but if you were holding the hose when the tank overflowed it would spray
you in the face. :-)

On Sat, 26 Jun 2004 10:03:56 -0400, hanz
wrote:

WHen filling the tanks you better NOT have too
much pressure. Even .5 psi can put a lot of pressure on the tops of
tanks - 2'x 5'lid = 24"x 60" = 1440 sq in x .5= 720 pound of pressure,
enough to cause the lid to buckle and separate.

I was thinking of writing along this line because I had that issue
with my fuel tanks. It's easy to get a lot of pressure. Say a water
tank vent outlet (or filler cap) is 6 feet above the tank. By the time
water comes out the vent or filler cap you have about 1/5 atmosphere
or 3 psi in the tank. Fuel is similar, probably 75% of that pressure.
My tank vents are fairly high up a coaming on a center cockpit and the
fuel tanks are under the sole. There's 7-8 feet of head. My tanks
oozed around some fittings that were not used to pressure and around
an inspection port that wasn't really adequately gasketed.

Peggie Hall wrote in :


The problem is bilge pumps DON'T pump ALL the water out...which is why
most people do everything possible to keep as much water OUT of the
bilge as possible. 'Cuz the less water that goes into one, the less
there is to turn into a dark smelly swamp.


When Geoffrey bought Lionheart, an Amel Sharki ketch, we were horrified to
find that all the sinks, shower, everything but the head, of course, dumped
all that grey water into the BILGE! Geoffrey wanted to put through-hull
fittings under the sinks to get it overboard, directly, but other things
needed doing, first, so it got put off.

After using this arrangement since last August, including a couple of sea
voyages, we've found that this Amel smells a LOT better than his Endeavour
35 sloop BECAUSE of all the grey water sloshing around in the sump down in
the full keel, instead of that little trickle of rain and seawater making
its way into the "biological soup" of the Endeavour.

I think the advanced biology growing in the Endeavour's bilge is killed off
by the antibiotic soap the dishes are washed in that also cleans the oil
and scum out of the Amel's bilge! Amel has a BIG manual electric bilge
pump but the previous owner put in a BIG Rule 4000 gph and a float switch
way down in the bottom. The Rule doesn't do well with food solids that
make it into the bilge, but I just pull the power to it and flush out the
solids with soapy water and the big Amel OEM bilge pump ever so often, when
I think of it.

For some crazy reason, this arrangement works BETTER! Any ideas why,
Peggie?

Larry

Larry W4CSC wrote:
For some crazy reason, this arrangement works BETTER! Any ideas why,
Peggie?

If it does work better, it definitely isn't due to any "antibiotics" in
dish soap...there aren't any, in dishwashing liquids or any other
"antibacterial" products. It can only be because you have to flush all
that garbage out the bilge fairly regularly to unclog the bilge
pump...which doesn't happen on the Endeavor. Any boat will smell a LOT
better if the bilge is actually flushed out a few times a year instead
of only relying solely on periodic doses of bilge cleaner and the bilge
pump.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1

"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...

Do you get sea water into your fuel tanks? They are certainly vented
overboard!

Not necessarily. Current school of thought is to vent them in the cockpit.
No problem with overflow overboard (big fine). No problem with
sal****er infiltration.


Who's school of thought is it to vent gas tanks into the cockpit?

It is certainly illegal to have portable tanks (which place the vents inside
the boat) on anything other than an open boat with an outboard. I would
think that it would also be illegal to vent the tank inside the boat. It
certainly doesn't seem like a wise idea.

A properly installed vented loop will prevent any back flow of sea water
into a line. No need to create additional problems and/or hazards.


Rod