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#11
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That wasn't the question.
s/v Callista "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Wed, 2 Jun 2004 19:27:23 -0400, "Doug Dotson" wrote: I'm looking for alternatives while balancing removing the deck hardware and keeping the WX out until I get the deck painted and the hardware rebedded. ===================================== I think you'll be happier with the end result if you take off the hardware first. That's why the pros do it that way. You can cover the deck with tarps to keep the rain out while you're reinstalling and rebedding. |
#12
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Just put a little dab of lifecaulk in each hole when you remove the
fittings. It'll be fine in weather, and when you reinstall the screws, it'll just squeeze out. -- Keith __ "Application denied. One cannot fertilize with flatus." -Abraham Lincoln, on rejecting homeopathic medications for the dispensary of the US troops. "Doug Dotson" wrote in message ... Difference is that my job is my own doing. If I was getting it done professionally I wouldn't be worried about it. I'm looking for alternatives while balancing removing the deck hardware and keeping the WX out until I get the deck painted and the hardware rebedded. Doug s/v Callista "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Tue, 1 Jun 2004 19:47:21 -0400, "Doug Dotson" wrote: It will be AwlGrip. Pretty much the best their is from what I understand. ================================================== === FWIW, In all of the commercial AwlGrip jobs I've ever seen, they painted first. |
#13
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I'm not too worried about the little stuff. It's the 24" square holes
left by the hatches that become a problem. Doug s/v Callista "Keith" wrote in message ... Just put a little dab of lifecaulk in each hole when you remove the fittings. It'll be fine in weather, and when you reinstall the screws, it'll just squeeze out. -- Keith __ "Application denied. One cannot fertilize with flatus." -Abraham Lincoln, on rejecting homeopathic medications for the dispensary of the US troops. "Doug Dotson" wrote in message ... Difference is that my job is my own doing. If I was getting it done professionally I wouldn't be worried about it. I'm looking for alternatives while balancing removing the deck hardware and keeping the WX out until I get the deck painted and the hardware rebedded. Doug s/v Callista "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Tue, 1 Jun 2004 19:47:21 -0400, "Doug Dotson" wrote: It will be AwlGrip. Pretty much the best their is from what I understand. ================================================== === FWIW, In all of the commercial AwlGrip jobs I've ever seen, they painted first. |
#14
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Doug,
![]() them on and painting around them, or doing something like duct taping heavy plastic over the holes while the hatches are removed. Of course, you could just leave everything else off, but re-install the hatches between work sessions. If you used a temporary rubber gasket (such as the stick on stuff they sell at home depot) to bed the hatches temporarily, they should be mostly watertight, and you'd just pull up the temporary gaskets while working on the deck. Since the material comes in rolls you could just throw out the used material and make new ones every time you replaced the hatches. Or a better idea is to put the sticky side of the material to the hatches, so that you could just pull them up. (Thinking on my feet here). Not a solution for green water over the deck, but it should keep the rain out while you're working on her. In either case (duct tape and plastic, or replacing the hatches) you'll have to make sure that the primer / paint / whatever is good and dry before covering the hatches or you'll be pulling it off the next time you remove the hatches. Of course, that stuff dries pretty fast in the sun. Good luck with it, Don W. Doug Dotson wrote: I'm not too worried about the little stuff. It's the 24" square holes left by the hatches that become a problem. Doug s/v Callista |
#15
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I got some Lexan from Home Depot and made temporary
covers, bedded them in BoatLife (polysulfide) and screwed them down. My plan is to recondition the removed hatches, apply some sort of finish where the hatch will be bedded, and reinstall them for good. Then mask and paint around them when the time comes. The little stuff can stay off until the painting is complete. Doug s/v Callista "Don W" wrote in message m... Doug, ![]() have the choice of leaving them on and painting around them, or doing something like duct taping heavy plastic over the holes while the hatches are removed. Of course, you could just leave everything else off, but re-install the hatches between work sessions. If you used a temporary rubber gasket (such as the stick on stuff they sell at home depot) to bed the hatches temporarily, they should be mostly watertight, and you'd just pull up the temporary gaskets while working on the deck. Since the material comes in rolls you could just throw out the used material and make new ones every time you replaced the hatches. Or a better idea is to put the sticky side of the material to the hatches, so that you could just pull them up. (Thinking on my feet here). Not a solution for green water over the deck, but it should keep the rain out while you're working on her. In either case (duct tape and plastic, or replacing the hatches) you'll have to make sure that the primer / paint / whatever is good and dry before covering the hatches or you'll be pulling it off the next time you remove the hatches. Of course, that stuff dries pretty fast in the sun. Good luck with it, Don W. Doug Dotson wrote: I'm not too worried about the little stuff. It's the 24" square holes left by the hatches that become a problem. Doug s/v Callista |
#16
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On Wed, 9 Jun 2004 20:46:52 -0400, "Doug Dotson"
wrote: I got some Lexan from Home Depot and made temporary covers, bedded them in BoatLife (polysulfide) and screwed them down. My plan is to recondition the removed hatches, apply some sort of finish snip http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=246 ....works for me. |
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