I'm hoping some folks here can advise me on this. I'm starting to
replace the deck on my 1975 Regal Countess 180 outboard. I use
portable fuel tanks tucked against the transom under the rear seats
and transom pocket.

As part of my restoration project I'd like to add a fuel tank under
the deck, almost amidships. I'm thinking this would give better
balance for plane, and also free up storage space I'm now using for
fuel tanks. I've located a Moeller 28 gallon belly tank that would
work fine, except I will need to cut away part of the center stringer
to install it.

Are there any structural problems with changing the stringers like
this? I would expect to frame around the tank to build a mounting
pocket, which should replace strength from the stringer I cut. Any
other issues I should be considering?

Thanks

On Nov 10, 5:26 am, redtravelmaster wrote:
I'm hoping some folks here can advise me on this. I'm starting to
replace the deck on my 1975 Regal Countess 180 outboard. I use
portable fuel tanks tucked against the transom under the rear seats
and transom pocket.

As part of my restoration project I'd like to add a fuel tank under
the deck, almost amidships. I'm thinking this would give better
balance for plane, and also free up storage space I'm now using for
fuel tanks. I've located a Moeller 28 gallon belly tank that would
work fine, except I will need to cut away part of the center stringer
to install it.

Are there any structural problems with changing the stringers like
this? I would expect to frame around the tank to build a mounting
pocket, which should replace strength from the stringer I cut. Any
other issues I should be considering?

Thanks

Part of the stringer? How much?. How much this affects the strength
of the stringer cannot be determined without knowing how much is cut
away and how much is left. What you could do is what is called
sistering. Double or triple up what is left. In other words put a
piece on both sides of the stringer that overlap the part you didn't
cut away. Glue and screw the pieces to the existing stringer. This
should make it just about it as strong as it was before you cut part
of it out. If you have questions e-mail me.

Peter

I'm interested in this topic as well and would like to know what other
alterations might be required. For instance, venting the bilge? Or
construction of a special tank compartment to prevent leaks from
spilling into the bilge? Coast Guard Safety requirements of note? That
sort of thing. In other words, I'd like to know what's not necessarily
obvious that I need to know.
Rick

On Sat, 10 Nov 07, redtravelmaster wrote:
I'm hoping some folks here can advise me on this. I'm starting to
replace the deck on my 1975 Regal Countess 180 outboard. I use
portable fuel tanks tucked against the transom under the rear seats
and transom pocket.

As part of my restoration project I'd like to add a fuel tank under
the deck, almost amidships. I'm thinking this would give better
balance for plane, and also free up storage space I'm now using for
fuel tanks. I've located a Moeller 28 gallon belly tank that would
work fine, except I will need to cut away part of the center stringer
to install it.

Are there any structural problems with changing the stringers like
this? I would expect to frame around the tank to build a mounting
pocket, which should replace strength from the stringer I cut. Any
other issues I should be considering?

Thanks

On Nov 11, 6:38 am, wrote:
I'm interested in this topic as well and would like to know what other
alterations might be required. For instance, venting the bilge? Or
construction of a special tank compartment to prevent leaks from
spilling into the bilge? Coast Guard Safety requirements of note? That
sort of thing. In other words, I'd like to know what's not necessarily
obvious that I need to know.
Rick



On Sat, 10 Nov 07, redtravelmaster wrote:
I'm hoping some folks here can advise me on this. I'm starting to
replace the deck on my 1975 Regal Countess 180 outboard. I use
portable fuel tanks tucked against the transom under the rear seats
and transom pocket.

As part of my restoration project I'd like to add a fuel tank under
the deck, almost amidships. I'm thinking this would give better
balance for plane, and also free up storage space I'm now using for
fuel tanks. I've located a Moeller 28 gallon belly tank that would
work fine, except I will need to cut away part of the center stringer
to install it.

Are there any structural problems with changing the stringers like
this? I would expect to frame around the tank to build a mounting
pocket, which should replace strength from the stringer I cut. Any
other issues I should be considering?

Thanks- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The tank has to be vented to the open atmosphere outside of the boat.
The tank fill also has to be located such that if you spill fuel it
won't go into the boat. If there is an electrical equipment that can
cause a spark to ignite fumes in the same space as the tank then the
space must be ventilated. Since you bought a Moeller tank I am going
to assume that the tank itself complies with the Coast Guard specs.
Look at this web site http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/fuel.html for
more info on fuel system standards and tanks. The tank has to be
mounted such that it won't move as well.

On Sun, 11 Nov 07, Ike wrote:
If there is an electrical equipment that can
cause a spark to ignite fumes in the same space as the tank then the
space must be ventilated.

Since almost all bilges have at least an electrical bilge pump, I
guess almost all bilges must be ventilated then, correct?

Since you bought a Moeller tank

That was the OP. I'm not the OP.

Look at this web site http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/fuel.html for
more info on fuel system standards and tanks. The tank has to be
mounted such that it won't move as well.

Okay, good. Thanks,

Rick

I like this text personally. There is more to installing a fuel tank.
There are fuel lines, filters, filler spouts and vents. Ground wires.
There are also brackets to consider and ways to set the tank to
prevent water from setting under the tank and corroding the bottom of
the tank.

Incidentally, I purchased a new tank to install in my sailboat. The
regulations require a new boat builder to test the tank at 3psi with
soap bubbles. Seems like a good idea to me.

I bought a new filler spout from Attwood. I called them and inquired
about a test fixture so I could test the system to 3psi. They sent me
the test fitting for free at once. I sure liked that customer service.
I will probably test the system frequently. Can't hurt anything.

http://www.uscgboating.org/safety/boatbuilder/index.htm