Can anyone tell me how to polish raw stainless steel to get the nice
shiny finish? I can get it up to a satin "brushed finish" with a belt
sander, but I'd like to get it a bit nicer as its for my chainplates
and bolted for all to see on a bulkhead. They are 316L btw, if that
makes any difference. If its a load of hard work perhaps I'll leave
the brushed finish..........

Ta in advance

Pete

On Sep 17, 8:42 pm, pete wrote:
Can anyone tell me how to polish raw stainless steel to get the nice
shiny finish? I can get it up to a satin "brushed finish" with a belt
sander, but I'd like to get it a bit nicer as its for my chainplates
and bolted for all to see on a bulkhead. They are 316L btw, if that
makes any difference. If its a load of hard work perhaps I'll leave
the brushed finish..........

Ta in advance

Pete

Go sailing and dont worry about it.

OR, you could buy some very fine aluminum oxide powder, say 600 grit
and apply it to a dremel tool buffer.

wrote:

Can anyone tell me how to polish raw stainless steel to get the nice
shiny finish? I can get it up to a satin "brushed finish" with a
belt
sander, but I'd like to get it a bit nicer as its for my chainplates
and bolted for all to see on a bulkhead. They are 316L btw, if that
makes any difference. If its a load of hard work perhaps I'll leave
the brushed finish..........

Two options.

1) Get it electropolished, then buff it out.

2) Don't sweat the petty stuff and don't pet the sweaty stuff.

Lew

On Tue, 18 Sep 2007 02:42:18 +0200, pete wrote:

Can anyone tell me how to polish raw stainless steel to get the nice
shiny finish? I can get it up to a satin "brushed finish" with a belt
sander, but I'd like to get it a bit nicer as its for my chainplates
and bolted for all to see on a bulkhead. They are 316L btw, if that
makes any difference. If its a load of hard work perhaps I'll leave
the brushed finish..........

Ta in advance

Pete


To shop polish you need a polishing head which is basically similar to
a bench grinder. You will need a number of buffing wheels ranging from
hard to soft and buffing compounds from coarse to fine.

Install a hard buffing wheel and charge it with coarse compound. Buff
out all the scratches from your belt sander.
Change to a slightly softer wheel and a finer compound and buff out
the marks from the first wheel.
Change to a slightly softer wheel and finer compound and buff out
marks from the preceding wheel.
Continue this cycle until you reach the finnish you desire.

This a simple explanation as there are a multitude of different wheels
and compounds for different metals and purposes. Brownell (the
gunsmith supplier) probably have a wealth of detailed information in
their catalog on polishing steel that will apply to your stainless.

By the way, the better polish you have on stainless the less chance
you have of those rust colored stains forming.



Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

"pete" wrote
SNIP
If its a load of hard work perhaps I'll leave the brushed finish..........

Pete,
As Bruce spelled it out . . . not necessarilly 'hard' work . . . but most
certainly 'a LOAD'.

If you used the belt sander for 'shaping', that's O.K. However for
'finishing' it's a bit to much for good control. If it's really rough I'd
start with a small 'quarter sheet' sander and 220 paper. Then go to hand
sanding with progressively finer papers {and a lighter touch}- 320, 400,
600. That should get you to a nice 'Satin'. If you want to go further, grits
of 800 to about 2000 are typially available at your local auto supply
store - Paint section.

However, I'm with Lew . . . knock off the 'big chunks' and go sailing !!

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

On Sep 18, 8:42 am, "Ron Magen" wrote:
"pete" wrote
SNIP
If its a load of hard work perhaps I'll leave the brushed finish..........

Pete,
As Bruce spelled it out . . . not necessarilly 'hard' work . . . but most
certainly 'a LOAD'.

If you used the belt sander for 'shaping', that's O.K. However for
'finishing' it's a bit to much for good control. If it's really rough I'd
start with a small 'quarter sheet' sander and 220 paper. Then go to hand
sanding with progressively finer papers {and a lighter touch}- 320, 400,
600. That should get you to a nice 'Satin'. If you want to go further, grits
of 800 to about 2000 are typially available at your local auto supply
store - Paint section.

However, I'm with Lew . . . knock off the 'big chunks' and go sailing !!

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

I am with Lew and Ron, just go with the satin finish , accept a little
bit of rust staining and go sailing! Its too much work to polish them
out. I made chainplates for my boat from 316L and got sick of trying
to polish them. I got to 220 grit on a sander and let it go at that.
One year later there was some rust staining but it wasn't that bad.
BUT if you just Have to have mirror finish plates, send them out for
electropolishing.

On Tue, 18 Sep 2007 21:57:41 -0000, roger
wrote:

On Sep 18, 8:42 am, "Ron Magen" wrote:
"pete" wrote
SNIP
If its a load of hard work perhaps I'll leave the brushed finish..........

Pete,
As Bruce spelled it out . . . not necessarilly 'hard' work . . . but most
certainly 'a LOAD'.

If you used the belt sander for 'shaping', that's O.K. However for
'finishing' it's a bit to much for good control. If it's really rough I'd
start with a small 'quarter sheet' sander and 220 paper. Then go to hand
sanding with progressively finer papers {and a lighter touch}- 320, 400,
600. That should get you to a nice 'Satin'. If you want to go further, grits
of 800 to about 2000 are typially available at your local auto supply
store - Paint section.

However, I'm with Lew . . . knock off the 'big chunks' and go sailing !!

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

I am with Lew and Ron, just go with the satin finish , accept a little
bit of rust staining and go sailing! Its too much work to polish them
out. I made chainplates for my boat from 316L and got sick of trying
to polish them. I got to 220 grit on a sander and let it go at that.
One year later there was some rust staining but it wasn't that bad.
BUT if you just Have to have mirror finish plates, send them out for
electropolishing.

A later thought - get it polished by an outside shop. Most chrome
plating shops will take small lots of stainless to be polished. Check
the yellow pages or a custom motorcycle or car builder to locate.



Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

Pete,
Take Bruce's advise and get it done. The dust from polishing is super
hazmat. You need special dust equipment and a professional filter mask
Steve

"pete" wrote in message
...
Can anyone tell me how to polish raw stainless steel to get the nice
shiny finish? I can get it up to a satin "brushed finish" with a belt
sander, but I'd like to get it a bit nicer as its for my chainplates
and bolted for all to see on a bulkhead. They are 316L btw, if that
makes any difference. If its a load of hard work perhaps I'll leave
the brushed finish..........

Ta in advance

Pete

On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 19:24:58 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Pete,
Take Bruce's advise and get it done. The dust from polishing is super
hazmat. You need special dust equipment and a professional filter mask
Steve

"pete" wrote in message
.. .
Can anyone tell me how to polish raw stainless steel to get the nice
shiny finish? I can get it up to a satin "brushed finish" with a belt
sander, but I'd like to get it a bit nicer as its for my chainplates
and bolted for all to see on a bulkhead. They are 316L btw, if that
makes any difference. If its a load of hard work perhaps I'll leave
the brushed finish..........

Ta in advance

Pete


True the "dust" from polishing contains metal particles together with
abrasives which probably are not expelled from the lungs easily but I
wouldn't call them "super hamate" exactly as the polishing compounds
are generally greasy and it isn't really "dust" but more a sort of
"greasy grunge" for want of a better word. If I were doing much of it
I would take the same precautions one would take power sanding it.

It is a filthy job though as the residue gets all over the place,
including the person doing the job.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

He-he, thanks guys, brushed finish it will be; I thought it might be
too much. Never thought about the electoplating though, maybe I'll try
that on the mast support tube running thru my table.......

Pete


On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 07:05:46 +0700, wrote:

On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 19:24:58 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Pete,
Take Bruce's advise and get it done. The dust from polishing is super
hazmat. You need special dust equipment and a professional filter mask
Steve

"pete" wrote in message
. ..
Can anyone tell me how to polish raw stainless steel to get the nice
shiny finish? I can get it up to a satin "brushed finish" with a belt
sander, but I'd like to get it a bit nicer as its for my chainplates
and bolted for all to see on a bulkhead. They are 316L btw, if that
makes any difference. If its a load of hard work perhaps I'll leave
the brushed finish..........

Ta in advance

Pete


True the "dust" from polishing contains metal particles together with
abrasives which probably are not expelled from the lungs easily but I
wouldn't call them "super hamate" exactly as the polishing compounds
are generally greasy and it isn't really "dust" but more a sort of
"greasy grunge" for want of a better word. If I were doing much of it
I would take the same precautions one would take power sanding it.

It is a filthy job though as the residue gets all over the place,
including the person doing the job.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)