You can get brass in any junk yard. Cutting is easy, drilling is easy. I
know, it will not stand up to being submerged in sea water..... If your
stantion bases are that wet, you need more than new backup plates.
DAve in Maine

Dave ,, I got a couple of numbers of sheet metal shops in the Dover area. I
will give them a call. The aluminum idea seems like a plan. Light, easy to
drill, will provide strength. If I can get the metal shop to cut it to the
right size ?? They should do that, I would think.

===============
"Dave W" wrote in message
...
You can get brass in any junk yard. Cutting is easy, drilling is easy. I
know, it will not stand up to being submerged in sea water..... If your
stantion bases are that wet, you need more than new backup plates.
DAve in Maine

NE Sailboat wrote:
Dave ,, I got a couple of numbers of sheet metal shops in the Dover area. I
will give them a call. The aluminum idea seems like a plan. Light, easy to
drill, will provide strength. If I can get the metal shop to cut it to the
right size ?? They should do that, I would think.

===============
"Dave W" wrote in message
...
You can get brass in any junk yard. Cutting is easy, drilling is easy. I
know, it will not stand up to being submerged in sea water..... If your
stantion bases are that wet, you need more than new backup plates.
DAve in Maine





or go to WallyWorld and buy a plastic kitchen cutting board
cut and drill to size.
g

Gordon ,, that idea of the cut up cutting board ?? Pretty good. I wonder
what thickness the cutting board material is?

Probably 1/2" anyway,, right?


"Gordon" wrote in message
...
NE Sailboat wrote:
Dave ,, I got a couple of numbers of sheet metal shops in the Dover area.
I will give them a call. The aluminum idea seems like a plan. Light,
easy to drill, will provide strength. If I can get the metal shop to cut
it to the right size ?? They should do that, I would think.

===============
"Dave W" wrote in message
...
You can get brass in any junk yard. Cutting is easy, drilling is easy.
I know, it will not stand up to being submerged in sea water..... If
your stantion bases are that wet, you need more than new backup plates.
DAve in Maine





or go to WallyWorld and buy a plastic kitchen cutting board
cut and drill to size.
g

Gordon wrote:

or go to WallyWorld and buy a plastic kitchen cutting board
cut and drill to size.
g


I thought about that untill I put my cutting board into the dish washer
on hot.
It warped. Also not UV protected. Maybe stouter materials are
availble, no?
Bob

Bob wrote:
Gordon wrote:

or go to WallyWorld and buy a plastic kitchen cutting board
cut and drill to size.
g


I thought about that untill I put my cutting board into the dish washer
on hot.
It warped. Also not UV protected. Maybe stouter materials are
availble, no?
Bob


Does your boat get as hot inside as a dishwasher? Does the sun shine
on your stantion nuts?
Do beware of the plastic being too hard to where it could snap when
tightening the nuts. Be sure and use washers to distribute the load.
Gordon

NE Sailboat wrote:
Dave ,, I got a couple of numbers of sheet metal shops in the Dover area. I
will give them a call. The aluminum idea seems like a plan. Light, easy to
drill, will provide strength. If I can get the metal shop to cut it to the
right size ?? They should do that, I would think.



The Al can be cut with standard wood woking tools. Use your skillsaw to
gut 1/4" plate. Pretty cool uh?

Bob

Planning for spring. I will rebed my stanchion bases. Under the deck,
the backing is a thin piece of fiberglass. I would like to give the bases
a bit more support. I came across the material Starboard.

For myself, I would have gone with marine ply, but the idea of using a
plastic cutting board is simple, cheap and brilliant. I can definitely see
myself using it in future!

If you decide to go with stainless, get it cut for you (try to find a shop
with a guillotine, thats the quickest way to cut it and they probably wont
charge). You'll need a good supply of quality drill bits; think cobalt, not
the $20 for 100 bits kit.

If you go with aluminum, it neednt be one of the 5000 grade varieties....
while this is what we use at work for building boats, i wouldnt class the
underside of a deck as being a marine environment. You could get away with
pretty much any old garden variety of aluminum here. You can cut it with
any tool that you would use for wood working that has a carbide tip blade
(sawzall, circular saw, table saw etc) it even hacksaws pretty easy.
drilling is a breeze.

regardless of what you choose, re-bed the stanchion above deck with a
quality bedding compound (3M is pretty good) not with liquid nails, epoxy or
whatever else you have in your tool box. *Do not* use bedding compound under
the deck! If you have water getting through from the top of the deck, you
want to know about it. If you seal the bottom as well, the water has
nowhere to travel except internally along your fibreglass or ply deck. by
the time you find out about it you will be in big trouble. For the same
reason, I would not fibreglass the underside of the deck.

Shaun

Shaun,,, I went out into the kitchen and measured a couple of cutting
boards. They were like 1/2" thick! Next visit to Wally Mart I will bring
my ruler. Who knows, maybe find a cutting board around 1/4" think. That
might work.

I looked in a few different DIY books and the mostly often recommendation is
Marine Ply . Measure the Ply, cut , Casey calls for a beveled edge to the
ply.

Then, before putting up under .. epoxy the ply to seal all the edges, and
bolt holes.

One other book showed a thin piece of stainless steel under the stanchion
base. Helps to spread out the forces of load. The base piece of stainless
is sealed with polysulfide ( 4200?? ), then the stanchion base is sealed as
it is put down on the base piece of stainless.

Under ,, marine ply.

I should think this would give a very strong stanchion base.


One other question ;; what thicknesses does stainless steel come in?

I've never bought any.

-----------------------
"Shaun Van Poecke" wrote in message
...
Planning for spring. I will rebed my stanchion bases. Under the deck,
the backing is a thin piece of fiberglass. I would like to give the
bases a bit more support. I came across the material Starboard.

For myself, I would have gone with marine ply, but the idea of using a
plastic cutting board is simple, cheap and brilliant. I can definitely
see myself using it in future!

If you decide to go with stainless, get it cut for you (try to find a shop
with a guillotine, thats the quickest way to cut it and they probably wont
charge). You'll need a good supply of quality drill bits; think cobalt,
not the $20 for 100 bits kit.

If you go with aluminum, it neednt be one of the 5000 grade varieties....
while this is what we use at work for building boats, i wouldnt class the
underside of a deck as being a marine environment. You could get away
with pretty much any old garden variety of aluminum here. You can cut it
with any tool that you would use for wood working that has a carbide tip
blade (sawzall, circular saw, table saw etc) it even hacksaws pretty easy.
drilling is a breeze.

regardless of what you choose, re-bed the stanchion above deck with a
quality bedding compound (3M is pretty good) not with liquid nails, epoxy
or whatever else you have in your tool box. *Do not* use bedding compound
under the deck! If you have water getting through from the top of the
deck, you want to know about it. If you seal the bottom as well, the
water has nowhere to travel except internally along your fibreglass or ply
deck. by the time you find out about it you will be in big trouble. For
the same reason, I would not fibreglass the underside of the deck.

Shaun

NE Sailboat wrote:
Shaun,,, I went out into the kitchen and measured a couple of cutting
boards. They were like 1/2" thick! Next visit to Wally Mart I will bring
my ruler. Who knows, maybe find a cutting board around 1/4" think. That
might work.

I looked in a few different DIY books and the mostly often recommendation is
Marine Ply . Measure the Ply, cut , Casey calls for a beveled edge to the
ply.

Then, before putting up under .. epoxy the ply to seal all the edges, and
bolt holes.

One other book showed a thin piece of stainless steel under the stanchion
base. Helps to spread out the forces of load. The base piece of stainless
is sealed with polysulfide ( 4200?? ), then the stanchion base is sealed as
it is put down on the base piece of stainless.

Under ,, marine ply.

I should think this would give a very strong stanchion base.


One other question ;; what thicknesses does stainless steel come in?

I've never bought any.

-----------------------
"Shaun Van Poecke" wrote in message
...
Planning for spring. I will rebed my stanchion bases. Under the deck,
the backing is a thin piece of fiberglass. I would like to give the
bases a bit more support. I came across the material Starboard.
For myself, I would have gone with marine ply, but the idea of using a
plastic cutting board is simple, cheap and brilliant. I can definitely
see myself using it in future!

If you decide to go with stainless, get it cut for you (try to find a shop
with a guillotine, thats the quickest way to cut it and they probably wont
charge). You'll need a good supply of quality drill bits; think cobalt,
not the $20 for 100 bits kit.

If you go with aluminum, it neednt be one of the 5000 grade varieties....
while this is what we use at work for building boats, i wouldnt class the
underside of a deck as being a marine environment. You could get away
with pretty much any old garden variety of aluminum here. You can cut it
with any tool that you would use for wood working that has a carbide tip
blade (sawzall, circular saw, table saw etc) it even hacksaws pretty easy.
drilling is a breeze.

regardless of what you choose, re-bed the stanchion above deck with a
quality bedding compound (3M is pretty good) not with liquid nails, epoxy
or whatever else you have in your tool box. *Do not* use bedding compound
under the deck! If you have water getting through from the top of the
deck, you want to know about it. If you seal the bottom as well, the
water has nowhere to travel except internally along your fibreglass or ply
deck. by the time you find out about it you will be in big trouble. For
the same reason, I would not fibreglass the underside of the deck.

Shaun




My supply of plastic cutting board is 1/4 thick and came from
Wallyworld. I just madeup 2 more stantion backings yesterday. Laid out
on the plastic with marking pen, cut using radial arm saw, rasp to file
edges and corners, drill press for holes and presto! Will take longer to
install than to make.
G