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#1
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![]() Backyard Renegade wrote: Rick Tyler wrote in message . .. On 24 Jun 2004 05:34:49 -0700, (Backyard Renegade) wrote: (snip) Scotty's several dozen S&G boats ahead of me, but I think copper sucks for stitching boats together. I use hefty cable ties, and when I need to loosen one up, I do what Scotty says -- I snip them off and put in a new one. I find that copper either breaks when I twist it with pliers, or, if I use thick wire, pulls out of the plywood. It also stabs me in the fingers so often I feel like I've been playing with snip....... Actually since reading his other post about wanting to build the boat in two weeks with his daughter, I would have suggested a skin (plywood) on frame boat like a small pointy skiff or something anyway. A noobie is not going to build a S+T in two weeks in most cases... Scotty I'm curious as to why you might think that? (That it will take more than two dedicated weeks) Actually I am more curious as to what pitfalls you see me stumbling into that i can't see,( still having the blissful veil of ignorance). As I think about it, there is the obvious, i.e. scheduling boat work is best accomplished by estimating the time required, then multiplying by 2.5, so that you will only be short by 30% of your estimate ![]() but are there any common pitfalls that I might avoid with a few suggestions/pointers by others? |
#2
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You can go that route.
Here's how I do it (I'm sure not everyone will agree). Keep in mind I just do kayaks and canoes. I do "tack welds". The hull is stitched together and then I apply a small amount of filleting material on each side of the cable tie and let it cure (don't forget to precoat the weld areas with some resin). Then I cut the cable ties/stitches and remove. Fill in the holes as you fillet the seams. You have to be careful doing this as the tack welds will crack if you shift the hull. That's why I'll only do this process one seam at a time...tack weld, remove stitches, seam fillet, glass, and then repeat. It's some extra steps but it's how I prefer it. -- Matt Langenfeld JEM Watercraft jemwatercraft.com Jonathan wrote: I am about to embark on building a 10 ft stitch and glue dinghy, a Dudly Dix, Argie 10. I would think this has been asked, but so far I haven't found it. Can I use those plastic self cinching cable ties to hold the panels together until I glass them? I would think they would sand off more smoothly than wire? Any thoughts? Jonathan |
#3
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![]() "Jonathan" wrote in message ... I am about to embark on building a 10 ft stitch and glue dinghy, a Dudly Dix, Argie 10. I would think this has been asked, but so far I haven't found it. Can I use those plastic self cinching cable ties to hold the panels together until I glass them? I would think they would sand off more smoothly than wire? Any thoughts? Jonathan Yes you can. Use as few as possible to keep the shape fair, more in areas of high curvature, typically near the bow. -- Evan Gatehouse you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me ceilydh AT 3web dot net (fools the spammers) |
#4
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Jonathan wrote in message ...
I am about to embark on building a 10 ft stitch and glue dinghy, a Dudly Dix, Argie 10. I would think this has been asked, but so far I haven't found it. Can I use those plastic self cinching cable ties to hold the panels together until I glass them? I would think they would sand off more smoothly than wire? Any thoughts? Jonathan Thousands of our designs were built with plastic ties. They are easy to adjust, don't hurt your fingers, can be left in the resin and sanded down. See pictures of construction with plastic ties in our builders galleries: http://forums.bateau2.com/gallery/ I think that Devlin abandonned copper wire for plastic ties. It is not a very important decision anyway: I have used duct tape too, works well on small hulls with smooth bending. Jacques from bateau.com |
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