"Ulrich G. Kliegis" wrote in message
...
Hi,

having to re-paint the deck of my 33 years old 33' steel boat, I have
a question to the DIY-and specially paint-gurus here. The old, well,
it's been three years since I built it from ground up, paint is still
good, but the anti-slip additive (by International) I stirred into it
(one bag per pint-can) does not do what it is supposed to.

It seems to be a plastic granulate that makes the paint somewhat dull,
but still slippery, especially when it is wet. And it seems to polish
off with every step you make on it. On my old boat, I stirred some
fine quartz sand into the deck paint (a polyurethan product), and that
lasted ages. It seems that one-component PU paints have vanished (at
least here in Germany) from the shelves, the present base on the deck
is an alkyd paint.

Now, apart from adding sand, has anybody here any trick to offer on
how to achieve a real anti-slip deck that earns its name? We rubbed
off the whole deck with Scotchbrite clamped into an electric sander,
using lots of water - works wonders. The surface is clean and dull
now. I intend to use the same paint I used before (Sikkens Alkyd).

But what to add to make it real safe?

Any advice? The negative factor o using sand is the long-term care
problem.

Thanks in advance!

Ulli (54,4N 10,2E)

Some Sail Board makers used to add sugar to the last coat. The sugar
dissolves and leaves craters.
Baz

Sugar makes a great non-slip but the little craters are the devil to keep
clean.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Baz" wrote in message
...

"Ulrich G. Kliegis" wrote in message
...
Hi,

having to re-paint the deck of my 33 years old 33' steel boat, I have
a question to the DIY-and specially paint-gurus here. The old, well,
it's been three years since I built it from ground up, paint is still
good, but the anti-slip additive (by International) I stirred into it
(one bag per pint-can) does not do what it is supposed to.

It seems to be a plastic granulate that makes the paint somewhat dull,
but still slippery, especially when it is wet. And it seems to polish
off with every step you make on it. On my old boat, I stirred some
fine quartz sand into the deck paint (a polyurethan product), and that
lasted ages. It seems that one-component PU paints have vanished (at
least here in Germany) from the shelves, the present base on the deck
is an alkyd paint.

Now, apart from adding sand, has anybody here any trick to offer on
how to achieve a real anti-slip deck that earns its name? We rubbed
off the whole deck with Scotchbrite clamped into an electric sander,
using lots of water - works wonders. The surface is clean and dull
now. I intend to use the same paint I used before (Sikkens Alkyd).

But what to add to make it real safe?

Any advice? The negative factor o using sand is the long-term care
problem.

Thanks in advance!

Ulli (54,4N 10,2E)

Some Sail Board makers used to add sugar to the last coat. The sugar
dissolves and leaves craters.
Baz

Not mixing. Sprinkling.


Ulrich G. Kliegis wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jun 2006 14:00:51 +0100, "Baz"
wrote in uk.rec.sailing:


Some Sail Board makers used to add sugar to the last coat. The sugar
dissolves and leaves craters.

And the sugar in deeper layers acts hygroscopic, i.e., it attracts
water. Not exactly what is intended.

But thanks anyway.

Regards,
U.

"Ulrich G. Kliegis" wrote

And the sugar in deeper layers acts hygroscopic, i.e., it attracts
water. Not exactly what is intended.

But thanks anyway.

Regards,
U.

The way you use sugar (or salt for that matter) is to sprinkle it on evenly
with a flour sifter while the paint is still wet. Then after the paint is
cured wash it off and the crystals dissolve out.leaving a nice uniform
finely pitted surface. The only real problem is that the pits are the shape
of the crystals, often straight sided which collects dirt and is hard to
brush out completely.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

On Wed, 14 Jun 2006 21:14:08 +0200, Ulrich G. Kliegis
wrote:

Thanks for the enlighting, anyway. People who have done that here
complain of the dirt collecting in the little craters. My berth is
just opposite the locks of the Kiel Canal, which means lots of smoke
and other residues of the crude oil that the big ships push out. That
combined with the odd rain shower lets the surface age pretty quickly,
optically at least.

But the method is nice.

AFAICR a possible way to get round that is to paint a second coat of
paint over the craters.

Wouldn't take too long to try out a sample on some scrap board, to see
how easy it is to hose/scrub clean.

The first coat of paint could be done through a template or with
masking so the edges are left clear and so easier to clean.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:

AFAICR a possible way to get round that is to paint a second coat of
paint over the craters.

Doesn't that dull the edges of the craters, thus losing grip?

The obvious answer is to choose the colour of the paint carefully
to match that of the expected dirt.

I've heard of some folks using Epsom salts as well ...same effect.

Glenn, or anybody,

Know of any anti-skid treatment that a) works well, and b) does NOT turn
into a dirt and grime collector? I need to decide what to do on my aft deck
and the sheer decks (see http://www.glacierboats.com/tongass ). I'm not
worried about cost if it's the right product...

Thanks,
Brian


"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:NDYjg.112233$Ce1.49509@dukeread01...

"Ulrich G. Kliegis" wrote

And the sugar in deeper layers acts hygroscopic, i.e., it attracts
water. Not exactly what is intended.

But thanks anyway.

Regards,
U.

The way you use sugar (or salt for that matter) is to sprinkle it on
evenly with a flour sifter while the paint is still wet. Then after the
paint is cured wash it off and the crystals dissolve out.leaving a nice
uniform finely pitted surface. The only real problem is that the pits are
the shape of the crystals, often straight sided which collects dirt and is
hard to brush out completely.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Brian D wrote:
I've heard of some folks using Epsom salts as well ...same effect.

Glenn, or anybody,

Know of any anti-skid treatment that a) works well, and b) does NOT turn
into a dirt and grime collector? I need to decide what to do on my aft deck
and the sheer decks (see http://www.glacierboats.com/tongass ). I'm not
worried about cost if it's the right product...

Thanks,
Brian


"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:NDYjg.112233$Ce1.49509@dukeread01...

"Ulrich G. Kliegis" wrote


And the sugar in deeper layers acts hygroscopic, i.e., it attracts
water. Not exactly what is intended.

But thanks anyway.

Regards,
U.

The way you use sugar (or salt for that matter) is to sprinkle it on
evenly with a flour sifter while the paint is still wet. Then after the
paint is cured wash it off and the crystals dissolve out.leaving a nice
uniform finely pitted surface. The only real problem is that the pits are
the shape of the crystals, often straight sided which collects dirt and is
hard to brush out completely.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com


Since the way a non-skid works is by providing a myriad of tiny edges,
and those tiny edges collect and harbor dirt, it seems that to get
effective non-skid, you have to live with dirt. It should be possible
to balance these to some extent...

I have seen a non-skid surface created out of spray-on pickup truck bed
liner with rubber granules embedded. Personally, I think it makes a
great deck surface for a work boat, but it is a little "coarse" as well
as coarse for a pleasure boat.

bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

"Ronald Raygun" wrote in message
. uk...
Pete C wrote:

AFAICR a possible way to get round that is to paint a second coat of
paint over the craters.

Doesn't that dull the edges of the craters, thus losing grip?

The obvious answer is to choose the colour of the paint carefully
to match that of the expected dirt.

Yes. This year I have chosen to piant my bottom with hairy green antifoul
paint. I've had trouble however, exactly matching the seagull patina on the
cabin roof - any suggestions?

Floatything

On Wed, 14 Jun 2006 22:18:51 GMT, "Floatything"
. I've had trouble however, exactly matching the seagull patina on the
cabin roof - any suggestions?

Floatything


Why bother, that stuff is waterproof, doesn't fade, non-slip (after
the first few hours) and is very environmentally friendly being made
of totally recycled products