This isn't a direct answer to your question, as it's a paint rather than
an additive, but, the all time, hands down best anti skid coating I have
ever seen was applied to the Open 60, OceanPlanet. It is called
Nautix-Grip. My memory is that it was imported from France (where Open
60s are a religion) by a company in Florida.

If you absolutely, positively want to keep your footing and stay
onboard, this would be the product.

Jonathan



Ulrich G. Kliegis wrote:
Hi,

having to re-paint the deck of my 33 years old 33' steel boat, I have
a question to the DIY-and specially paint-gurus here. The old, well,
it's been three years since I built it from ground up, paint is still
good, but the anti-slip additive (by International) I stirred into it
(one bag per pint-can) does not do what it is supposed to.

It seems to be a plastic granulate that makes the paint somewhat dull,
but still slippery, especially when it is wet. And it seems to polish
off with every step you make on it. On my old boat, I stirred some
fine quartz sand into the deck paint (a polyurethan product), and that
lasted ages. It seems that one-component PU paints have vanished (at
least here in Germany) from the shelves, the present base on the deck
is an alkyd paint.

Now, apart from adding sand, has anybody here any trick to offer on
how to achieve a real anti-slip deck that earns its name? We rubbed
off the whole deck with Scotchbrite clamped into an electric sander,
using lots of water - works wonders. The surface is clean and dull
now. I intend to use the same paint I used before (Sikkens Alkyd).

But what to add to make it real safe?

Any advice? The negative factor o using sand is the long-term care
problem.

Thanks in advance!

Ulli (54,4N 10,2E)


--
I am building my daughter an Argie 10 sailing dinghy, check it out:
http://home.comcast.net/~jonsailr

Hi
You might look at ProtectaKote, which can be found he
www.esyte.co.uk
but you might need someone from UK to carry it across for you. Go for
the UVR version, which is longer lasting than the standard version.
Vactan is also worth a look if you have any rust around.
All the best with your project.
Regards
Paul




Jonathan W. wrote:
This isn't a direct answer to your question, as it's a paint rather than
an additive, but, the all time, hands down best anti skid coating I have
ever seen was applied to the Open 60, OceanPlanet. It is called
Nautix-Grip. My memory is that it was imported from France (where Open
60s are a religion) by a company in Florida.

If you absolutely, positively want to keep your footing and stay
onboard, this would be the product.

Jonathan



Ulrich G. Kliegis wrote:
Hi,

having to re-paint the deck of my 33 years old 33' steel boat, I have
a question to the DIY-and specially paint-gurus here. The old, well,
it's been three years since I built it from ground up, paint is still
good, but the anti-slip additive (by International) I stirred into it
(one bag per pint-can) does not do what it is supposed to.

It seems to be a plastic granulate that makes the paint somewhat dull,
but still slippery, especially when it is wet. And it seems to polish
off with every step you make on it. On my old boat, I stirred some
fine quartz sand into the deck paint (a polyurethan product), and that
lasted ages. It seems that one-component PU paints have vanished (at
least here in Germany) from the shelves, the present base on the deck
is an alkyd paint.

Now, apart from adding sand, has anybody here any trick to offer on
how to achieve a real anti-slip deck that earns its name? We rubbed
off the whole deck with Scotchbrite clamped into an electric sander,
using lots of water - works wonders. The surface is clean and dull
now. I intend to use the same paint I used before (Sikkens Alkyd).

But what to add to make it real safe?

Any advice? The negative factor o using sand is the long-term care
problem.

Thanks in advance!

Ulli (54,4N 10,2E)


--
I am building my daughter an Argie 10 sailing dinghy, check it out:
http://home.comcast.net/~jonsailr

There used to be some stuff called "Wingwalk", or something like that, that
was a paint-on coating for the walkways on airplane wings. I know the
commercial craft in the Seattle area use (or used?) it a lot and liked it
for their offshore use.

My biggest beef with anti-skid treatments is repair ...if you have to
repaint or anything, then any nonskid treatment that resembles sandpaper is
going to be a paint to sand or remove so you can re-do the work. Walnut
shells aren't too bad but they can be hard on the feet. Sand or silica
additives are a pain to deal with if you have to sand it off later. How's
the Nautix-Grip?

Brian


"Jonathan W." wrote in message
...
This isn't a direct answer to your question, as it's a paint rather than
an additive, but, the all time, hands down best anti skid coating I have
ever seen was applied to the Open 60, OceanPlanet. It is called
Nautix-Grip. My memory is that it was imported from France (where Open 60s
are a religion) by a company in Florida.

If you absolutely, positively want to keep your footing and stay onboard,
this would be the product.

Jonathan



Ulrich G. Kliegis wrote:
Hi,

having to re-paint the deck of my 33 years old 33' steel boat, I have
a question to the DIY-and specially paint-gurus here. The old, well,
it's been three years since I built it from ground up, paint is still
good, but the anti-slip additive (by International) I stirred into it
(one bag per pint-can) does not do what it is supposed to. It seems to be
a plastic granulate that makes the paint somewhat dull,
but still slippery, especially when it is wet. And it seems to polish
off with every step you make on it. On my old boat, I stirred some
fine quartz sand into the deck paint (a polyurethan product), and that
lasted ages. It seems that one-component PU paints have vanished (at
least here in Germany) from the shelves, the present base on the deck
is an alkyd paint. Now, apart from adding sand, has anybody here any
trick to offer on
how to achieve a real anti-slip deck that earns its name? We rubbed
off the whole deck with Scotchbrite clamped into an electric sander,
using lots of water - works wonders. The surface is clean and dull
now. I intend to use the same paint I used before (Sikkens Alkyd). But
what to add to make it real safe?

Any advice? The negative factor o using sand is the long-term care
problem. Thanks in advance!

Ulli (54,4N 10,2E)


--
I am building my daughter an Argie 10 sailing dinghy, check it out:
http://home.comcast.net/~jonsailr

I have Protectacote on the gunnels, roof and foredeck of my narrow boat and
after 5 years (foredeck) am impressed. It is still adhering well despite
being painted onto a "not too good" surface.

The foredeck and roof are a light grey, but it did suffer terribly from
shedding pigment. Also, after a time, the paint wears off the granulated
rubber giving the surface a dirty look. Both problems are cured by an
occasional coat of some suitable satin or mat paint.

I have used ordinary International floor paint (no anti-slip) and have just
redone the roof with a "proprietary" inland mat external paint. The gunnels
get a coat of ordinary gloss black each year when I paint the tumblehome on
the hull.


--
Tony Brooks
www.TB-Training.co.uk

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi
You might look at ProtectaKote, which can be found he
www.esyte.co.uk
but you might need someone from UK to carry it across for you. Go for
the UVR version, which is longer lasting than the standard version.
Vactan is also worth a look if you have any rust around.
All the best with your project.
Regards
Paul




Jonathan W. wrote:
This isn't a direct answer to your question, as it's a paint rather than
an additive, but, the all time, hands down best anti skid coating I have
ever seen was applied to the Open 60, OceanPlanet. It is called
Nautix-Grip. My memory is that it was imported from France (where Open
60s are a religion) by a company in Florida.

If you absolutely, positively want to keep your footing and stay
onboard, this would be the product.

Jonathan



Ulrich G. Kliegis wrote:
Hi,

having to re-paint the deck of my 33 years old 33' steel boat, I have
a question to the DIY-and specially paint-gurus here. The old, well,
it's been three years since I built it from ground up, paint is still
good, but the anti-slip additive (by International) I stirred into it
(one bag per pint-can) does not do what it is supposed to.

It seems to be a plastic granulate that makes the paint somewhat dull,
but still slippery, especially when it is wet. And it seems to polish
off with every step you make on it. On my old boat, I stirred some
fine quartz sand into the deck paint (a polyurethan product), and that
lasted ages. It seems that one-component PU paints have vanished (at
least here in Germany) from the shelves, the present base on the deck
is an alkyd paint.

Now, apart from adding sand, has anybody here any trick to offer on
how to achieve a real anti-slip deck that earns its name? We rubbed
off the whole deck with Scotchbrite clamped into an electric sander,
using lots of water - works wonders. The surface is clean and dull
now. I intend to use the same paint I used before (Sikkens Alkyd).

But what to add to make it real safe?

Any advice? The negative factor o using sand is the long-term care
problem.

Thanks in advance!

Ulli (54,4N 10,2E)


--
I am building my daughter an Argie 10 sailing dinghy, check it out:
http://home.comcast.net/~jonsailr

Ulrich G. Kliegis wrote:
Best regards and thanks to all contributors!
U.

Hi:

What do the coasties use on their rescue boats?

Bob