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#1
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Fuel Tank Construction
Wayne, you are talking about a reasonable effort and significant cost
regardless of the material chosen, Do not use aluminum, it is far too reactive. Do not use gavanized steel. The diesel will disolve the zinc. The ultimate material should be 316TI SS and next best would be mild steel blasted and painted with the special Permatex tank paint. This paint is designed for large storage tanks and must be ordered specially. I just finished 2 water tanks slightly smaller than yours in stainless and the material cost was $3200 and that included access hatches. Steve "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... If everything goes according to plan, I'm about to buy a Grand Banks 49 trawler that needs new fuel tanks (500 gallons each). Any thoughts from this group on the best material for new tanks, fabrication hints, and/or removal/installation suggestions? |
#2
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Fuel Tank Construction
On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 07:08:12 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote: Wayne, you are talking about a reasonable effort and significant cost regardless of the material chosen, Do not use aluminum, it is far too reactive. Do not use gavanized steel. The diesel will disolve the zinc. The ultimate material should be 316TI SS and next best would be mild steel blasted and painted with the special Permatex tank paint. This paint is designed for large storage tanks and must be ordered specially. I just finished 2 water tanks slightly smaller than yours in stainless and the material cost was $3200 and that included access hatches. ============================= Steve, a couple of questions: 1. Dou you use the Permatex both inside and out? Manufacturer? 2. I've always heard that SS tanks for diesel were a problem because of weld corrosion. Is that not a problem with 316TI? |
#3
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Fuel Tank Construction
I was told 5052 aluminum is better than any stainless, and that stainless
tends to stress crack. I am sure there are many perfectly good stainless and aluminum tanks out there. I would not even think about mild steel, it will eventually start to rust. "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 07:08:12 +0200, "Steve Lusardi" wrote: Wayne, you are talking about a reasonable effort and significant cost regardless of the material chosen, Do not use aluminum, it is far too reactive. Do not use gavanized steel. The diesel will disolve the zinc. The ultimate material should be 316TI SS and next best would be mild steel blasted and painted with the special Permatex tank paint. This paint is designed for large storage tanks and must be ordered specially. I just finished 2 water tanks slightly smaller than yours in stainless and the material cost was $3200 and that included access hatches. ============================= Steve, a couple of questions: 1. Dou you use the Permatex both inside and out? Manufacturer? 2. I've always heard that SS tanks for diesel were a problem because of weld corrosion. Is that not a problem with 316TI? |
#4
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Fuel Tank Construction
5052 is a marine grade aluminum, but aluminum of any type is very reactive
when exposed and unprotected. I suggest that these tanks, once installed will not offer access to all surfaces impeding inspection and maintenance. In that light, I would not use it. 316TI is the chemical industry's material of choice for corrosive environments. It is correct that SS will corrode (crevise corrosion), but that takes stagnant water without oxygen and that case will not exist is this application. If all welds are properly passivated, inside and out, then there should be no corrosion. However by far, the majority of diesel tanks are made very successfully of mild steel. The success of mild steel is significantly enhanced when the INSIDE of the tank is coated with this permatex product. This paint was developed for the USAF for their underground jet fuel storage tanks. It is sold by the kilo and has a 30 day shelf life. This has a very high lead content and is hazardous to apply. Proper breathing gear is a must. It is sold to professionals only. Another solution for these tanks would be polypropylene. It can be welded, so custom fabrications are very possible and static electricity and corrosion are not a problem. I believe all Chrysler vehicles now use this. As a cost, I would estimate $3000 to $4000 per tank would be close. Just as a side item, I use mild steel for diesel and 316TI for drinking water. Steve "habbi" wrote in message ... I was told 5052 aluminum is better than any stainless, and that stainless tends to stress crack. I am sure there are many perfectly good stainless and aluminum tanks out there. I would not even think about mild steel, it will eventually start to rust. "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 07:08:12 +0200, "Steve Lusardi" wrote: Wayne, you are talking about a reasonable effort and significant cost regardless of the material chosen, Do not use aluminum, it is far too reactive. Do not use gavanized steel. The diesel will disolve the zinc. The ultimate material should be 316TI SS and next best would be mild steel blasted and painted with the special Permatex tank paint. This paint is designed for large storage tanks and must be ordered specially. I just finished 2 water tanks slightly smaller than yours in stainless and the material cost was $3200 and that included access hatches. ============================= Steve, a couple of questions: 1. Dou you use the Permatex both inside and out? Manufacturer? 2. I've always heard that SS tanks for diesel were a problem because of weld corrosion. Is that not a problem with 316TI? |
#5
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Fuel Tank Construction
On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 19:47:57 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote: As a cost, I would estimate $3000 to $4000 per tank would be close. Thanks for the information, estimates are close to what I've received. The realy BIG costs are removal and re-installation - holes to be cut, reglassed, painted, etc. What do you use for fittings, and do you take special precautions to isolate dis-similar metals? |
#6
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Fuel Tank Construction
Wayne,
You must consider maintenance, so an access hatch will be needed for each baffelled compartment. I use studs, nuts and make-a-gasket RTV for the seal. The boat layout will determine where the inlet and outlet ports should be. Here, I suggest flanges, studs and gaskets or RTV. When all assembled, test at 2 psi for 24 hours. I take special care with dissimliar metals and if I have to use them, I use nylon isolators and tophats around the bolts and studs. Always check with a VOM to be sure. However, do not use these with the fuel tank. (static). Dissimiliar metals only matter when wet. No water, no ploblem. I would be concerned about chafe between the hull and the tank. Either eliminate the problem by bolting hard to the hull or use rubber shock mounts and use a bond cable across a mount for earth. Steve "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 19:47:57 +0200, "Steve Lusardi" wrote: As a cost, I would estimate $3000 to $4000 per tank would be close. Thanks for the information, estimates are close to what I've received. The realy BIG costs are removal and re-installation - holes to be cut, reglassed, painted, etc. What do you use for fittings, and do you take special precautions to isolate dis-similar metals? |
#7
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Fuel Tank Construction
On Sunday 06 June 2004 11:51 am in rec.boats.building Steve Lusardi wrote:
Wayne, You must consider maintenance, so an access hatch will be needed for each baffelled compartment. I use studs, nuts and make-a-gasket RTV for the seal. The boat layout will determine where the inlet and outlet ports should be. Here, I suggest flanges, studs and gaskets or RTV. When all assembled, test at 2 psi for 24 hours. I take special care with dissimliar metals and if I have to use them, I use nylon isolators and tophats around the bolts and studs. Always check with a VOM to be sure. However, do not use these with the fuel tank. (static). Dissimiliar metals only matter when wet. No water, no ploblem. I would be concerned about chafe between the hull and the tank. Either eliminate the problem by bolting hard to the hull or use rubber shock mounts and use a bond cable across a mount for earth. Steve All good stuff, but one additional point := Each tank should have a bottom drain at the lowest point. Water contamination is a common problem for most fuels, especially diesel. Water will always settle to the bottom of the tank, it is a good idea to wait overnight after refueling to allow any water to separate and then drain the tank bottom until clean fuel comes out. It is also good practice to also do this as a regular routine inspection to prevent the buildup of condensation or inward leakage from vents and fillers. -- My real address is crn (at) netunix (dot) com WARNING all messages containing attachments or html will be silently deleted. Send only plain text. |
#8
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Fuel Tank Construction
"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Wayne, you are talking about a reasonable effort and significant cost regardless of the material chosen, Do not use aluminum, it is far too reactive. Do not use gavanized steel. The diesel will disolve the zinc. The ultimate material should be 316TI SS and next best would be mild steel blasted and painted with the special Permatex tank paint. This paint is designed for large storage tanks and must be ordered specially. I just finished 2 water tanks slightly smaller than yours in stainless and the material cost was $3200 and that included access hatches. Steve Commercial small / medium size vessel practice is usually aluminum or mild steel. I don't see using plastic tanks, the size you are suggesting is pretty big for plastic of non cylindrical shapes. Saying aluminum is "too reactive" isn't really true. The only problem with aluminum is if the tank is let to sit with moisture trapped against it. Stand-offs or similar methods to keep any condensation from the skin of the tank is a good idea. Mild steel is generally not painted inside and the steel tanks do last at least 20 years (the diesel on the inside tends to give a nice coating). That said you can coat the inside of steel tanks for additional protection. No I wouldn't use stainless steel - generally weld cracking can occur with the thin plates of tanks. If you do go S.S., I would probably select 316L, which is a low carbon version of 316 that is suited for welding. Much better for corrosion than 304. But it's a pretty big price premium for doubtful benefit. -- Evan Gatehouse you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me ceilydh AT 3web dot net (fools the spammers) |
#9
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Fuel Tank Construction
Evan,
You are correct, but here is the rub. Diesel is hygroscopic and with tanks this size water, being more dense than fuel oil, will settle at the bottom and EAT the aluminum pretty damn quick. Steve "Evan Gatehouse" wrote in message ... "Steve Lusardi" wrote in message ... Wayne, you are talking about a reasonable effort and significant cost regardless of the material chosen, Do not use aluminum, it is far too reactive. Do not use gavanized steel. The diesel will disolve the zinc. The ultimate material should be 316TI SS and next best would be mild steel blasted and painted with the special Permatex tank paint. This paint is designed for large storage tanks and must be ordered specially. I just finished 2 water tanks slightly smaller than yours in stainless and the material cost was $3200 and that included access hatches. Steve Commercial small / medium size vessel practice is usually aluminum or mild steel. I don't see using plastic tanks, the size you are suggesting is pretty big for plastic of non cylindrical shapes. Saying aluminum is "too reactive" isn't really true. The only problem with aluminum is if the tank is let to sit with moisture trapped against it. Stand-offs or similar methods to keep any condensation from the skin of the tank is a good idea. Mild steel is generally not painted inside and the steel tanks do last at least 20 years (the diesel on the inside tends to give a nice coating). That said you can coat the inside of steel tanks for additional protection. No I wouldn't use stainless steel - generally weld cracking can occur with the thin plates of tanks. If you do go S.S., I would probably select 316L, which is a low carbon version of 316 that is suited for welding. Much better for corrosion than 304. But it's a pretty big price premium for doubtful benefit. -- Evan Gatehouse you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me ceilydh AT 3web dot net (fools the spammers) |
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