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#1
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Can I use Solid wire for rewiring sailboat if not WHY?
dazed and confuzed wrote:
Cost of assembly. It gets the boat out of the door, and it works long enough to last until the end of the warranty. I agree. The crimp is for a solid mechanical connection. The solder gives a good electrical connection and resists corrosion. Tom of the Swee****er Sea |
#2
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Can I use Solid wire for rewiring sailboat if not WHY?
I agree. The crimp is for a solid mechanical connection. The solder
gives a good electrical connection and resists corrosion. wrong. solder connections fail under high load conditions. CRIMP for current, solder for corrosion resistence. In that order. |
#3
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Can I use Solid wire for rewiring sailboat if not WHY?
Would you mind explaining exactly how a solder connection fails "under high
load conditions" If a wire gets hot enough to melt solder then that circuit is greatly overloaded and the fuse should have failed long before reaching that point. "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... I agree. The crimp is for a solid mechanical connection. The solder gives a good electrical connection and resists corrosion. wrong. solder connections fail under high load conditions. CRIMP for current, solder for corrosion resistence. In that order. |
#4
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Can I use Solid wire for rewiring sailboat if not WHY?
Would you mind explaining exactly how a solder connection fails "under high
load conditions" when the connection is soldered it lacks mechanical integrity. solder is soft and any chance of movement -- any, even walking on a floor near the equipment in a building -- loosens the connection until it eventualy fails. Even if after soldering the connection is clamped TIGHTLY with a mechanical clamp it eventually fails. If the connection is FIRST clamped TIGHTLY mechanically and _then_ soldered for corrosion protection all if right and holy. |
#5
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Can I use Solid wire for rewiring sailboat if not WHY?
I refuse to get into useless debates based on absolutely ridicules
assertions...so I'm going to stop right here and avoid the name calling that usually comes next. But I can give many examples that will prove the statement below completely unfounded. I solder all of the wires on trailers that I build (and I build a lot of them) and they are subjected to lots of movement and vibration and never fail. Sometimes the wires will get pulled apart but not the soldered joint. Huge numbers of soldered electronic equipment in high vibration service routinely last a lifetime without failure. The mechanical connection is far more likely to loosen, that's why we have loctite and NyLocks. Anyway, my participation in this thread is ended. It is obvious that Jax is more interested in "winning arguments" than in meaningful posts and in reading some of his past posts, name calling is next. "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... Would you mind explaining exactly how a solder connection fails "under high load conditions" when the connection is soldered it lacks mechanical integrity. solder is soft and any chance of movement -- any, even walking on a floor near the equipment in a building -- loosens the connection until it eventualy fails. Even if after soldering the connection is clamped TIGHTLY with a mechanical clamp it eventually fails. If the connection is FIRST clamped TIGHTLY mechanically and _then_ soldered for corrosion protection all if right and holy. |
#6
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Can I use Solid wire for rewiring sailboat if not WHY?
so, you are a hill-billy idiot.
I refuse to get into useless debates based on absolutely ridicules assertions...so I'm going to stop right here and avoid the name calling that usually comes next. But I can give many examples that will prove the statement below completely unfounded. I solder all of the wires on trailers that I build (and I build a lot of them) and they are subjected to lots of movement and vibration and never fail. Sometimes the wires will get pulled apart but not the soldered joint. Huge numbers of soldered electronic equipment in high vibration service routinely last a lifetime without failure. The mechanical connection is far more likely to loosen, that's why we have loctite and NyLocks. Anyway, my participation in this thread is ended. It is obvious that Jax is more interested in "winning arguments" than in meaningful posts and in reading some of his past posts, name calling is next. "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... Would you mind explaining exactly how a solder connection fails "under high load conditions" when the connection is soldered it lacks mechanical integrity. solder is soft and any chance of movement -- any, even walking on a floor near the equipment in a building -- loosens the connection until it eventualy fails. Even if after soldering the connection is clamped TIGHTLY with a mechanical clamp it eventually fails. If the connection is FIRST clamped TIGHTLY mechanically and _then_ soldered for corrosion protection all if right and holy. |
#7
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Can I use Solid wire for rewiring sailboat if not WHY?
If the connection is crimped first, you have it correct. Additional
soldering will create the stress concentration, which can fail slowly through minute cracks creating a resistive connection, which allows more and more circuit voltage to drop accross the joint. This heats the joint, and creates enbrittlement of the joint and wire and so on. This is not rocket science folks. It is common sense. Steve "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... Would you mind explaining exactly how a solder connection fails "under high load conditions" when the connection is soldered it lacks mechanical integrity. solder is soft and any chance of movement -- any, even walking on a floor near the equipment in a building -- loosens the connection until it eventualy fails. Even if after soldering the connection is clamped TIGHTLY with a mechanical clamp it eventually fails. If the connection is FIRST clamped TIGHTLY mechanically and _then_ soldered for corrosion protection all if right and holy. |
#8
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Can I use Solid wire for rewiring sailboat if not WHY?
Tom, you are incorrect. A solder joint under vibration can easily create a
resistive connection and it can be undetectable until it overheats. Please review my previous advice and use a crimping tool that creats a very high pressure crimp. Steve "Tom Shilson" wrote in message ... dazed and confuzed wrote: Cost of assembly. It gets the boat out of the door, and it works long enough to last until the end of the warranty. I agree. The crimp is for a solid mechanical connection. The solder gives a good electrical connection and resists corrosion. Tom of the Swee****er Sea |
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