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Each time I've had that problem, it's been air under the epoxy. I've ground
it down, BUT don't get the dust from the glass in your clothes unless you're going to wash and wash and wash them. (Tyvek coveralls?) The "epoxy itch" does go away in a few days, and it's not fatal, but you really don't want it. 12 hour cure times don't compute for me. In fact, I don't even let the first coat lose its tackiness. I think it's just to satisfy the tendency of the wood to leach epoxy out of the joint/tape. Once the underlayment is saturated, it's ready for the glass. (I guess if the first coat is tacky, it will be harder to reposition the tape, but sometimes that's an advantage. Messy, but you are wearing latex gloves?) One trick I use on bare wood is to play the heat gun* over the wood just before applying the epoxy. The air in the wood will then contract and pull the epoxy down into the pores. If the wood is colder than the cure temperature of the epoxy (it's exothermic, remember) then small bubbles will form and try to rise thru the epoxy, discoloring it (white) and making craters. * Black & Decker, about $20, don't char the wood -- also good for heat shrink tubing and paint stripping Roger http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm "(PeteCresswell)" wrote in message ... Per Ron Magen: Sounds like an 'epoxy starved' area, to me. Either not enough epoxy UNIFORMLY applied to begin with, or an area rolled/squeegeed to hard and the epoxy pushed away. To avoid this I usually apply in 2 to 3 'steps . . . a} with raw wood - I put on a coat of unthickened epoxy and let it cure . . . then cut parts. b}With repairs or applying cloth to a hull . . . apply a coat of unthickened epoxy and allow it to 'set' - from just when it looses it's tackiness, to the 'green' stage. I guess I could try the following - but it would take a day or two with 12-hour cure times..... Can I paint the surface with a thin coat of epoxy, smooth on the cloth, let it cure, and then squeegee more epoxy over top to completely saturate the cloth? This would be a nice solution to some situations where the edges of the cloth want to curl up because of curves in the surface - tack one side down, tack the other side down, then saturate. -- PeteCresswell |
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