Surf ski (long, skinny sit-on-top kayak).

The deck is bonded to the hull by what looks like fiberglass mixed with
polyester resin. The bonding stuff is about 1/8" thick. Can't tell if
there's a flange yet.

Around the seat well, there is about 18" where the deck/hull connection is
cracked.

I figure I'll chisel out the existing mix - and try to feel out the flange,
hoping that if it's there it is flat and not s-shaped. Then I'll trowel in a
mixture of epoxy and either loose fibers or just wadded-up cloth.

Does this sound right? Will there be a strength diff between the two fillers?
--
PeteCresswell

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote:

Surf ski (long, skinny sit-on-top kayak).

The deck is bonded to the hull by what looks like fiberglass mixed with
polyester resin. The bonding stuff is about 1/8" thick. Can't tell if
there's a flange yet.

Around the seat well, there is about 18" where the deck/hull connection is
cracked.

I figure I'll chisel out the existing mix - and try to feel out the flange,
hoping that if it's there it is flat and not s-shaped. Then I'll trowel in a
mixture of epoxy and either loose fibers or just wadded-up cloth.

Does this sound right? Will there be a strength diff between the two fillers?
--
PeteCresswell


Well, I'd take a different tack...

Trying to lay glass over an open hole is a bitch, buddy.

First, is there another area like the area that is cracked
where a "splash" could be taken?

If not, since it's a crack and not a crater...

Lay some plastic sheet over the area - painter's drop
or the like, but not too thin.

Lay out fiberglass cloth ON the plastic sheet - in situ - and wet
out with EPOXY resin. Then cover the mess with another piece of
plastic sheet and you have a wet lay up - that you can handle - a wad!
Three or four layers of fabric will do.

Lay the wad in place on the dammaged area and work it into shape.
And let it cure.

That makes a "splash".
It is a very thin fiberglass molding of the problem area.

The splash is the same basic shape as the place where the repair
is needed. On fairly flat areas it doesn't sound like much, but
get into the corners and compound areas, and a splash is a handy
thing to have. Yes. it may be a little off size, if it's laid
on an outside surface, but it's flexible stuff....

NOW carve out the dammaged area as required.

(1) with the idea of making the hole and the splash fit each other
(feathered edges, etc)
or
(2) with the idea of using the splash as a backing plate - behind
the dammaged area. (look Ma, no hole!)

The backing plate approach is the easiest - if you can get behind
the dammaged part - or sized so that the backing plate can be passed
through to the back side.

Scuff the back side of the dammaged area and the front side of the
splash (for some "tooth") and glue in place with T-88 and aluminum
pop rivets around the perimeter.

Once the T-88 cures, drill out pop rivets, and clean up around the
patch with a die grinder, and prep for new glass to be laid on.
(feather the edges of the old glass, knock off glubs, etc).

Then lay in glass (cloth over matt) patches to fill the surface level
again. (will usually take care of the rivet holes too))

Knock the rough glass smooth (I heart my die grinder!) and slick
the surface up with a little bondo or micro.

Gell coat - or paint?

I personally never use matt without a fabric "close out" over it.
Too hard to get a decent glass/resin ratio otherwise.

And itabsolutely refuses to float in mid-air...


Richard Lamb
the CaveLamb

Per Steve Baker:
Izzat you? Seen any whipsnakes lately? ;-)
Steve (aka "Boat-Boy") Baker

Yes. Trying to get my Findeisen spec ski back on the water so I can sell it.

.... and dreaming of Bernicia.... that is a *really* nice area. Even Rio Vista -
which somebody said was "a little town out in the middle of nowhere" - was
beautiful to my East Coast eyes.
--
PeteCresswell

(PeteCresswell) wrote:


Yes. Trying to get my Findeisen spec ski back on the water so I can sell it.

Pete,
For that kind of repair, if it's just cracked, grind or sand back a
little, then lay on a wetted-out piece of cloth or mat (woven rovings or
Chopped Strand Mat) that is about 2" bigger than the crack. Sand
everywhere your patch will touch. If using cloth, aim for a total of 18
oz, and you should be fine for a surfski.
Steve "catch you at AM-B"

Per Steve Baker:
Pete,
For that kind of repair, if it's just cracked, grind or sand back a
little, then lay on a wetted-out piece of cloth or mat (woven rovings or
Chopped Strand Mat) that is about 2" bigger than the crack. Sand
everywhere your patch will touch. If using cloth, aim for a total of 18
oz, and you should be fine for a surfski.
Steve "catch you at AM-B"

Two issues:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
1) The 1" fiberglass tape that covered the deck/hull seam had started
delaminating bigtime. I got it off with a putty knife, a hair dryer,
and some gentle persuasion. Plenty dirt/crud under where it had
supposedly been bonded.

2) On one side, around the rear of the seat well, the bond between the
deck and the hull shows cracks over a distance of about 18". I can
move the deck independently of the hull with finger pressure, so I'm
guessing the cracks are really a separation of the deck from the hull,
but I don't know if there's a flange on the inside and, if there is,
if it's flat or curved. Gonna track down the guy who bought out
the ski's original maker and see if he can offer any info.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

I think I have the tape replacement process pretty much wired: clean the area
obsessively with a sanding block - removing all traces of the prior bonding
material and any gel coat and then just 'poxy new tape over top.

Not sure whether I need any more resin than is needed to wet out the tape...
i.e. would a second coat to fill in the weave add anything besides weight
and/or cosmetics?


I'm still mulling over the crack repair.

On one hand, it seems like I should be able to get some thinned resin to pull
itself in there just by surface tension. On the other hand, I have no idea of
what the condition of the two surfaces is. My guess would be that they aren't
as clean as I'd hope.

If I go all the way and carve out the bad stuff, then I have to mix up some
resin/fiberglass filaments and stuff it in there. That's where the OP came
from: I don't know if I should take the trouble to chop up a bunch of glass
or just stuff the folded-over wetted cloth into the gap. The folded-over cloth
seems like it would give more control over seepage/weeping on the inside of the
hull. OTOH, maybe it's not mechanically strong enough...
--
PeteCresswell

(PeteCresswell) wrote:

snip


I think I have the tape replacement process pretty much wired: clean the area
obsessively with a sanding block - removing all traces of the prior bonding
material and any gel coat and then just 'poxy new tape over top.

Pretty much, Yup!

Not sure whether I need any more resin than is needed to wet out the tape...
i.e. would a second coat to fill in the weave add anything besides weight
and/or cosmetics?

Will add just weight, and un-sandability....


I'm still mulling over the crack repair.

On one hand, it seems like I should be able to get some thinned resin to pull
itself in there just by surface tension. On the other hand, I have no idea of
what the condition of the two surfaces is. My guess would be that they aren't
as clean as I'd hope.

If I go all the way and carve out the bad stuff, then I have to mix up some
resin/fiberglass filaments and stuff it in there. That's where the OP came
from: I don't know if I should take the trouble to chop up a bunch of glass
or just stuff the folded-over wetted cloth into the gap. The folded-over cloth
seems like it would give more control over seepage/weeping on the inside of the
hull. OTOH, maybe it's not mechanically strong enough...

Can you send photos of the area?
Addie as ever, saildesign @ aohell.com (you know what it's really
called, right?)

Steve