"(PeteCresswell)" wrote:

Surf ski (long, skinny sit-on-top kayak).

The deck is bonded to the hull by what looks like fiberglass mixed with
polyester resin. The bonding stuff is about 1/8" thick. Can't tell if
there's a flange yet.

Around the seat well, there is about 18" where the deck/hull connection is
cracked.

I figure I'll chisel out the existing mix - and try to feel out the flange,
hoping that if it's there it is flat and not s-shaped. Then I'll trowel in a
mixture of epoxy and either loose fibers or just wadded-up cloth.

Does this sound right? Will there be a strength diff between the two fillers?
--
PeteCresswell


Well, I'd take a different tack...

Trying to lay glass over an open hole is a bitch, buddy.

First, is there another area like the area that is cracked
where a "splash" could be taken?

If not, since it's a crack and not a crater...

Lay some plastic sheet over the area - painter's drop
or the like, but not too thin.

Lay out fiberglass cloth ON the plastic sheet - in situ - and wet
out with EPOXY resin. Then cover the mess with another piece of
plastic sheet and you have a wet lay up - that you can handle - a wad!
Three or four layers of fabric will do.

Lay the wad in place on the dammaged area and work it into shape.
And let it cure.

That makes a "splash".
It is a very thin fiberglass molding of the problem area.

The splash is the same basic shape as the place where the repair
is needed. On fairly flat areas it doesn't sound like much, but
get into the corners and compound areas, and a splash is a handy
thing to have. Yes. it may be a little off size, if it's laid
on an outside surface, but it's flexible stuff....

NOW carve out the dammaged area as required.

(1) with the idea of making the hole and the splash fit each other
(feathered edges, etc)
or
(2) with the idea of using the splash as a backing plate - behind
the dammaged area. (look Ma, no hole!)

The backing plate approach is the easiest - if you can get behind
the dammaged part - or sized so that the backing plate can be passed
through to the back side.

Scuff the back side of the dammaged area and the front side of the
splash (for some "tooth") and glue in place with T-88 and aluminum
pop rivets around the perimeter.

Once the T-88 cures, drill out pop rivets, and clean up around the
patch with a die grinder, and prep for new glass to be laid on.
(feather the edges of the old glass, knock off glubs, etc).

Then lay in glass (cloth over matt) patches to fill the surface level
again. (will usually take care of the rivet holes too))

Knock the rough glass smooth (I heart my die grinder!) and slick
the surface up with a little bondo or micro.

Gell coat - or paint?

I personally never use matt without a fabric "close out" over it.
Too hard to get a decent glass/resin ratio otherwise.

And itabsolutely refuses to float in mid-air...


Richard Lamb
the CaveLamb