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(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(William R. Watt) wrote in message ...
Parallax ) writes:

Tonight, got one centerboard box made, ran out of material (3" wide
material) for second. Decided not to enclose it before sealing and
painting it. Strange that the instructions do not specify painting
the inside before enclosing it.

On the one daggerboard trunk that I've made I gave the inside surfaces two
coats of polyester resin for abraision resistance, just the inside exposed
surface, leaving the gluing surfaces uncoated. To help the polyester
adhere to the plywood the first coat was put on uncatalysed and allowed to
soak in over night before the second catalysed coat was put on. Then the
inside surfaces were given two coats of polyurethane liquid plastic for
extra waterproofing. This was a winter project so had the luxury of lots
of time to allow things to cure. It was also a lower cost alternative to
coating the inside with epoxy resin. I reserved the more expensive epoxy
to gluing the daggerboard to the boat and sealing the slot with a couple
additional coats.

Over the weekend, made centerboard boxes and installed them, Bow
frames and installed, Tapered bow but the plywood split on one and
required repair. Installed bow gussets. Bow gussets were a problem
as it is hard to determine whta is correct angle. Directions say 45
degrees which seems too large. Am now ready for installing sides.
I used epoxy to glue centerboard box and bow frame. Things are not
really fitting right but I make mods as required and patch with
thickened epoxy

Strap clamp does work but does distort the bottom just a little. I
may need anothe clamp nearer the bow. I may also still need a little
thicker stringer at the bow.

BTW, "Gorilla Glue" does work for flat pieces but I was easily able to
separate the sides from the stringers (well, not easily, but at least
possible) so I will use epoxy for any parts under tension.

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