Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
Parallax ) writes:
... I used the 1" #8 screws instead of the 3/4" ones because I wanted more holding power. They did go all the way through the stringers. They arent a work of art, but I think they are ok. I wouldn't do this on the hull below the waterline. Screws should only go 3/4 of the way into the last piece. When in doubt put them closer together. However if you are using screws and glue the screws are not that important. They clamp the pieces togehter until the glue sets. I've removed the screws and had the glue hold fine. BTW when I have used oversize screws in a pinch I've ground down the protruding points with a grinding wheel on an electric drill. Its too easy to grab hold of a boat somewhere and scratch a finger or palm on one of those points. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
Parallax ) writes:
Tonight, got one centerboard box made, ran out of material (3" wide material) for second. Decided not to enclose it before sealing and painting it. Strange that the instructions do not specify painting the inside before enclosing it. On the one daggerboard trunk that I've made I gave the inside surfaces two coats of polyester resin for abraision resistance, just the inside exposed surface, leaving the gluing surfaces uncoated. To help the polyester adhere to the plywood the first coat was put on uncatalysed and allowed to soak in over night before the second catalysed coat was put on. Then the inside surfaces were given two coats of polyurethane liquid plastic for extra waterproofing. This was a winter project so had the luxury of lots of time to allow things to cure. It was also a lower cost alternative to coating the inside with epoxy resin. I reserved the more expensive epoxy to gluing the daggerboard to the boat and sealing the slot with a couple additional coats. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(William R. Watt) wrote in message ... Parallax ) writes: Tonight, got one centerboard box made, ran out of material (3" wide material) for second. Decided not to enclose it before sealing and painting it. Strange that the instructions do not specify painting the inside before enclosing it. On the one daggerboard trunk that I've made I gave the inside surfaces two coats of polyester resin for abraision resistance, just the inside exposed surface, leaving the gluing surfaces uncoated. To help the polyester adhere to the plywood the first coat was put on uncatalysed and allowed to soak in over night before the second catalysed coat was put on. Then the inside surfaces were given two coats of polyurethane liquid plastic for extra waterproofing. This was a winter project so had the luxury of lots of time to allow things to cure. It was also a lower cost alternative to coating the inside with epoxy resin. I reserved the more expensive epoxy to gluing the daggerboard to the boat and sealing the slot with a couple additional coats. Over the weekend, made centerboard boxes and installed them, Bow frames and installed, Tapered bow but the plywood split on one and required repair. Installed bow gussets. Bow gussets were a problem as it is hard to determine whta is correct angle. Directions say 45 degrees which seems too large. Am now ready for installing sides. I used epoxy to glue centerboard box and bow frame. Things are not really fitting right but I make mods as required and patch with thickened epoxy Got the right side off again but even the left side does not really fit right at the bow. If I try to get it's top edge within reasonable distance of the bow end of the bow frame, say within 3/4" of being the same height, then it misses the bottom stringer about 3' back adjacent to the mast hole. Options include: 1. Reduce the front height of the bow frame thus tapering the bow downward just a little more, say 3/4". This will involve adding depth to the top bow frame stringer. 2. Install the sides as best I can along the stringers aft of the bow but make a thicker deck stringer for the bow. This can be done by gluing a tapered piece to the deck stringer. The ply will not come all the way up to the height of the bow frame at the bow but the space will be covered by the thicker stringer. Epoxy putty will cover the error. 3. Use a thicker bottom stringer (a stringer thickener) near the mast hole but I dont think this will solve the whole problem. 4. Forcing the bottom adjacent to the mast hole up might allow the stringer to be covered by the side. I am not sure what this will do to the bottom shape. Not sure how to do this but I will try the following: Use a strap clamp around the mast/centerboard box passing over the outsides of the bottom stringers on either side and around the bottom. Tighten, observe hull shape, tighten more, etc. Put in screws thru side to hold it. MAYBE the strap clamp can then be pulled out from between the side and the bottom stringer. 5. Perhaps a combo of 1,2,3 above. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(William R. Watt) wrote in message ... Parallax ) writes: Tonight, got one centerboard box made, ran out of material (3" wide material) for second. Decided not to enclose it before sealing and painting it. Strange that the instructions do not specify painting the inside before enclosing it. On the one daggerboard trunk that I've made I gave the inside surfaces two coats of polyester resin for abraision resistance, just the inside exposed surface, leaving the gluing surfaces uncoated. To help the polyester adhere to the plywood the first coat was put on uncatalysed and allowed to soak in over night before the second catalysed coat was put on. Then the inside surfaces were given two coats of polyurethane liquid plastic for extra waterproofing. This was a winter project so had the luxury of lots of time to allow things to cure. It was also a lower cost alternative to coating the inside with epoxy resin. I reserved the more expensive epoxy to gluing the daggerboard to the boat and sealing the slot with a couple additional coats. Over the weekend, made centerboard boxes and installed them, Bow frames and installed, Tapered bow but the plywood split on one and required repair. Installed bow gussets. Bow gussets were a problem as it is hard to determine whta is correct angle. Directions say 45 degrees which seems too large. Am now ready for installing sides. I used epoxy to glue centerboard box and bow frame. Things are not really fitting right but I make mods as required and patch with thickened epoxy Strap clamp does work but does distort the bottom just a little. I may need anothe clamp nearer the bow. I may also still need a little thicker stringer at the bow. BTW, "Gorilla Glue" does work for flat pieces but I was easily able to separate the sides from the stringers (well, not easily, but at least possible) so I will use epoxy for any parts under tension. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
lesson learned.
usual practice is to do a dry fit befroe gluing up. its one reason for using screws, they can be removed and reinserted. so you fit the pieces together, sand protruding edges, then take them apart, apply glue, and put them back together again. I just make a plywood backrest for my 4 year old Loonie one sheeter. Cut out and fit, installed dry and tried out on dry land, adjusted, then refit, before gluing up and painting. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
|
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Stevenson Projects MiniCup 12' sailboat - MiniCup.pdf (0/1) | Boat Building | |||
Winter Boat Projects...who's got some? | General |