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#11
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Whacky design thought
I figure that anything powered by hand, e.g. rowing or paddling or pedaling
or ..., needs to have minimum resistance through the water. I think a more traditional canoe body will move through the water better. You might consider close-in outrigger type slim pontoons or a bi-hull instead. This would allow you to manage putting fine entry and exits on the hull forms. Think "skinny catamaran with canoe in the middle" to imagine what I am thinking of, only you'd have a cat type pair of mini-hulls forward and aft, none in the middle. I think that maneuverability will suffer no matter what. Hmmmm? Brian "Matt Langenfeld" wrote in message nk.net... A friend and I were goofing around talking about hull shape and we came up with this: http://www.jem.e-boat.net/images/Development/XYak1.jpg The idea was stability and reserve buoyancy but still having the ability for nice tight vertical strokes. I'm not sure what to think. Innovative or just plain silly? -- Matt Langenfeld JEM Watercraft http://jem.e-boat.net/ |
#12
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Whacky design thought
It's just a mock up to promote thought. I hadn't really assigned
dimensions. I was thinking 18" max mid-ship. Great feedback all! Appreciated, truly. Brian Nystrom wrote: Matt Langenfeld wrote: A friend and I were goofing around talking about hull shape and we came up with this: http://www.jem.e-boat.net/images/Development/XYak1.jpg The idea was stability and reserve buoyancy but still having the ability for nice tight vertical strokes. I'm not sure what to think. Innovative or just plain silly? What is the beam of the boat? If it's extemely narrow in the center, it might work OK. If it's 20+ inches in the center and really wide at the ends, you'll end up with a boat that pitches and pounds over waves and will be hard to keep upright in beam seas, as it will be difficult to lean and/or edge. -- Matt Langenfeld JEM Watercraft http://jem.e-boat.net/ |
#13
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Whacky design thought
steveJ ) writes:
Because the enlarged ends are too low in the water in your design, the boat would be slowed because the water would have to travel around them. First out, then in, then out, then in. This would cause turbulance which will slow the boat. another way of lookign at this is in a "normal" boat the paddler has to work to push the water aside at the bow and again to overcome the suction as the water comes togehter again at the stern. In a wasp-waisted waterline the water is pushed aside twice and the suction overcome twice so its extra work. again, the paddler has to work to overcome the friction between the hull and the water. On a wasp-waisted boat there would be more surface area in contact with the water, hence more surface friction, and the paddler has to work harder to move the boat through the water. there are wierd boats that are harder to move though the water but they satisfy some other imporant requirement. a white water kayak comes to mind. these boats depend on water current to move them along. they sacrifice speed and ease of paddling for maoeuverability. such boats are special purpose. if you have a special situation where the wasp-waisted boat would be better than a normal boat which paddles easier go for it. I wasn't actually able to look at the boat because the computer at the public library was denied access to the Developement web page for some reason. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#14
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Whacky design thought
I know ...why not design it so your hull extensions are OUT of the water
until the paddler tips 10 degrees or so? Brian "William R. Watt" wrote in message ... steveJ ) writes: Because the enlarged ends are too low in the water in your design, the boat would be slowed because the water would have to travel around them. First out, then in, then out, then in. This would cause turbulance which will slow the boat. another way of lookign at this is in a "normal" boat the paddler has to work to push the water aside at the bow and again to overcome the suction as the water comes togehter again at the stern. In a wasp-waisted waterline the water is pushed aside twice and the suction overcome twice so its extra work. again, the paddler has to work to overcome the friction between the hull and the water. On a wasp-waisted boat there would be more surface area in contact with the water, hence more surface friction, and the paddler has to work harder to move the boat through the water. there are wierd boats that are harder to move though the water but they satisfy some other imporant requirement. a white water kayak comes to mind. these boats depend on water current to move them along. they sacrifice speed and ease of paddling for maoeuverability. such boats are special purpose. if you have a special situation where the wasp-waisted boat would be better than a normal boat which paddles easier go for it. I wasn't actually able to look at the boat because the computer at the public library was denied access to the Developement web page for some reason. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#15
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Wacky design thought
You might have something there.
This wasn't intended to be a speed racer. Just a WACKY ....lol.....idea about something stable for fishing but without having to reach way over the sides to paddle. If I did get into a serious design, I'd smooth out the transitions to minimze turbulence. I even know the name for it..."The Bone" because of the shape. Brian D wrote: I know ...why not design it so your hull extensions are OUT of the water until the paddler tips 10 degrees or so? |
#16
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Whacky design thought
snip
PS. There's no H in wacky. Depends on how hard inspiration hit. :-) |
#17
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Wacky design thought
Hi
"Matt Langenfeld" skrev i en meddelelse ink.net... If I did get into a serious design, I'd smooth out the transitions to minimze turbulence. And why that ------ turbulence is acturly just what can eliminate drag , make the wet surface act different , but ofcaurse you need the feel about how a hull act or rather the spots where it is a good idear to with turbulence. The boyancy can also come in handy, as you se with north sea vessels ----- just emagine one of these without the huge stern, it would not climb the waves but go strait into it , beside that far from the middle of the boat the extra volume will proberly make the hull more smooth moving. Realy the art about making a good fast design, is to have the feel about how turbulence could effect maby two thirds of the hull , making less drag than what you would expect as an amature builder. Anyway you will not know before you made atleast a scale model, making such one, would be very easy if you just had the framework to place the panels. -------------- Now Im'e not talking about 50 Kilo of clamps just to hold temp. frames , but an assembly framework that would support itself while showing the exact form, --------- like what you se here ; http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cyber-Boat/ P.C. |
#18
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Wacky design thought
"P.C." ) writes:
And why that ------ turbulence is acturly just what can eliminate drag , make the wet surface act different , but ofcaurse you need the feel about how a hull act or rather the spots where it is a good idear to with turbulence. a kayak with a bulb under the bow, now there's a wacky thought -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#19
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Wacky design thought
Hi
"William R. Watt" skrev i en meddelelse ... "P.C." ) writes: And why that ------ turbulence is acturly just what can eliminate drag , make the wet surface act different , but ofcaurse you need the feel about how a hull act or rather the spots where it is a good idear to with turbulence. a kayak with a bulb under the bow, now there's a wacky thought Well if you ever looked down at the water near the hull, with just a row boat, you be surprised that some of the water stay in the same place even the boat move with good speed ; --------- it's like some places on the hull surface ,the same water circulate slowly , leaving the "wet surface" being one inbetween two different turbulent small currents. Or looking behind a boat while moving, you also se the same water and bobbles staying the same distance from the end of the boat, even other water just inches away ,just rush past. --------- Also formig cirtain parts of the hull, can make the water rush as out a tunnel from parts of the hull, where the drag will vaccum other water in slower but in bigger quantities ; only thing that will show is a model. P.C. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
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