Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#11
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Keel cooler cast into lead
That is a WHOLE different creature. With refrigeration you are trying to
dump a few hundred BTUs an hour. With engine cooling you are dumping a few hundred BTUs a MINUTE. Lead is not the greatest heat conductor so you will need a lot more surface area than a bare tube condenser. It will be hard to bury that much and still keep the lead structurally sound. With my small diameter tube I am not to worried about the bond but I will sand blast the whole bolt frame/condenser assembly and paint the tubing with an acid flux formulated for tinning copper pots. I found that the copper/nickel wets out much better with it than regular acid solder flux. I wired the tubes in place with .032 316L stainless wire. Not ideal but I end up with a lot of 6' lengths every time I change from 316 to mild steel wire on my MIG welder so I figure to put it to some use. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "Hess cutter 56" wrote in message oups.com... I was planning to use pipe cast into the keel to cool the engine.! {A Sabb 22hp}. The Keel cooler that came with the engine is 10' long 5/8 tubing My keel will be a long rectangle. Aprox. 10' x 15"x 15" . Glenn do you plan to use some type of flux on the tubing , Before casting the lead ? And what type of wire do plan to use , To hold the tubing in place Thanks CW |
#12
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Keel cooler cast into lead
The down side of casting a condenser in the keel is that it is an extremely
permanent installation. No way to fix it once it is done so I added one extra loop. If one of the working loops springs a leak I can just switch over to the spare. I have had them pressurized with nitrogen to 250pis for 3 months now so hopefully they will not leak once they are inside the lead. The loops are a continuous downward slope so the oil will pool right at the return end. Probably could have made it a bit more efficient with a larger OD tube to slow the refrigerant down, get more surface area and less pressure drop but I read so much about oil getting trapped in the condenser and starving the compressors that I got scared. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "Matt Colie" wrote in message ... Glenn, If it is a condensor, then the liquid refrigerant should carry the oil along and should not pool in the turns of the coil (notice please the "shoulds"). But I like th idea as you have it because: -You have separate turns so a damaged turn could be eliminated from the circuit. -You may decide to rework the refrigation to be reversable and so provide heat from the pond at little cost. Just be sure that you keep the keep above freezing in fresh water. If this idea appeals to you, you migth think of putting a little loop like a trap at the outlet end just before the lift so the oil has someplace to collect a form a big enough plug so it gets lifted out of the cooler. Sounds interesting - I'd love to hear how it works out. Matt Colie ex reefer guy (among the rest) Glenn Ashmore wrote: "Matt Colie" wrote in message ... Glenn, Are you planning to us this as an evaporator? Matt Colie No. It will be the condenser. The evaporator goes in the refrigerator. The keel will be cold enough already. :-) |
#13
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Keel cooler cast into lead
On Fri, 10 Mar 2006 13:23:26 -0500, "Glenn Ashmore"
wrote: The loops are a continuous downward slope so the oil will pool right at the return end. Probably could have made it a bit more efficient with a larger OD tube to slow the refrigerant down, get more surface area and less pressure drop but I read so much about oil getting trapped in the condenser and starving the compressors that I got scared. Glenn, did you give any thought to circulating water through the keel, and then using that to cool the condenser? That would allow you to use a combination air and water cooled condensing unit, and if anything went wrong with the keel loop (and I'm concerned that it will), at least you have the air cooling as a backup. |
#14
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Keel cooler cast into lead
The idea was to avoid the circulating pump. If the whole thing craps out I
can always add a couple of conventional tube-in tube condensers and pull seawater off the sea chest. I plan to keep the vacuum pump, extra refrigerant and HVAC tools on board. Should be good for a few free beers from fixing systems on other boats if I ever get down island. :-) -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "Wayne.B" wrote in message news On Fri, 10 Mar 2006 13:23:26 -0500, "Glenn Ashmore" wrote: The loops are a continuous downward slope so the oil will pool right at the return end. Probably could have made it a bit more efficient with a larger OD tube to slow the refrigerant down, get more surface area and less pressure drop but I read so much about oil getting trapped in the condenser and starving the compressors that I got scared. Glenn, did you give any thought to circulating water through the keel, and then using that to cool the condenser? That would allow you to use a combination air and water cooled condensing unit, and if anything went wrong with the keel loop (and I'm concerned that it will), at least you have the air cooling as a backup. |
#15
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Keel cooler cast into lead
Thanks Glenn That makes sense ! CW
|
#16
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Keel cooler cast into lead
Glenn, Your in the keel cooler will work fine, it should also work on
the hard if that side of the keel is not in direct sunlight all day. Don't forget that these compressors without fan cooling depend only on super-cooled refrigerant as the main source of compressor heat removal, so if the compressors are located in a tight area supplemental cooling is required especially in tropical climates. Frigoboat has now added a small heat sink to compressors connected to their keel cooler compressors but I don't think it is large enough to do any good in the tropics. Dick |
#17
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Keel cooler cast into lead
Thanks Richard. I feel a lot more comfortable knowing you pass on the idea.
I am worried about compressor cooling too. I have two BD50s mounted on an aluminum skid at the bottom of a locker. That is a mighty enclosed space. The control units have those dinky little fans that come with the compressors but I believe I am going to add a duct fan to draw air up from floor level, blow it over the compressors and exhaust it under the galley cabinets. Keep my toes warm while I am cooking. :-). -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com wrote in message oups.com... Glenn, Your in the keel cooler will work fine, it should also work on the hard if that side of the keel is not in direct sunlight all day. Don't forget that these compressors without fan cooling depend only on super-cooled refrigerant as the main source of compressor heat removal, so if the compressors are located in a tight area supplemental cooling is required especially in tropical climates. Frigoboat has now added a small heat sink to compressors connected to their keel cooler compressors but I don't think it is large enough to do any good in the tropics. Dick |
#18
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Keel cooler cast into lead
BD Module selection
Danfoss offers a series of special electronic modules for their 12 volt BD35 BD50 compressor to address differant installation and operating problems. There are two different modules to hopefully address the radio noise problem, A soft start module for the BD50, An AC/DC model to eliminate the battery charger when connected to shore power and Danfoss's automatic speed control model. Unfortunately they don't sell one model that has all of these functions. For more information on this see the current post on my forum at http://www.kollmann-marine.com Glenn, I would recommend the automatic speed control module described by Danfoss as Adaptive Energy Optimization module (AEO). Here are some additional recommendations: · These units are so quite I would add a green 12 volt LED to the module's unused fan terminals small + and F. · All these modules have a chip inside for troubleshooting if a 12 volt low amp LED is connected to module terminals small + and D. A red LED is recommended here as the only time it will be on is when there is a problem. · If you need to add a supplemental cooling fan I would control it with a inexpensive temperature Snap Disc Control switch available from WW Granger. I have used there model 2E246, fan turns on at 120 degrees and off at 110 degrees the objective is to keep the compressors below 130 degrees F if possable, cost $7. |
#19
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Keel cooler cast into lead
Richard, I would definitely prefer the AEO module but have not found anyone
selling them. R-Parts got a few in and immediately sold out. I even considered programming my own microcontroller to adjust a digital pot in the thermostat line to control the speed but decided it would take a lot more R&D than I wanted to invest. If I find a couple in the future I will swap out the originals. I figure a couple of spare power modules might rescue somebody down island one day. :-) I do plan to add the indicator LEDs. Saw that in the instruction sheet and wonder why everyone doesn't do it. Thanks for the idea about the thermal switch. That will definitely go in the system. The exhaust fan will be buried behind the galley cabinets so it won't make much noise but no reason to use amps when they are not needed. Think I will stick one on top of each compressor and wire them in parallel so that if either needs more air the fan comes on. Heard so many stories about RFI from these power modules that I am going to great lengths to suppress it. Lined the compressor compartment with copper bug screen, adding chokes to the power lines and running all the signal lines in shielded twisted pair. Hopefully that will help. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com wrote in message ups.com... BD Module selection Danfoss offers a series of special electronic modules for their 12 volt BD35 BD50 compressor to address differant installation and operating problems. There are two different modules to hopefully address the radio noise problem, A soft start module for the BD50, An AC/DC model to eliminate the battery charger when connected to shore power and Danfoss's automatic speed control model. Unfortunately they don't sell one model that has all of these functions. For more information on this see the current post on my forum at http://www.kollmann-marine.com Glenn, I would recommend the automatic speed control module described by Danfoss as Adaptive Energy Optimization module (AEO). Here are some additional recommendations: · These units are so quite I would add a green 12 volt LED to the module's unused fan terminals small + and F. · All these modules have a chip inside for troubleshooting if a 12 volt low amp LED is connected to module terminals small + and D. A red LED is recommended here as the only time it will be on is when there is a problem. · If you need to add a supplemental cooling fan I would control it with a inexpensive temperature Snap Disc Control switch available from WW Granger. I have used there model 2E246, fan turns on at 120 degrees and off at 110 degrees the objective is to keep the compressors below 130 degrees F if possable, cost $7. |
#20
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
Keel cooler cast into lead
I was present during 105 degree ambient tests of the AEO in freezers
and was impressed with its performance but if you can not find them, the next best thing is a Frigoboat SSC. I have one on my test bench and it performs much like the AEO even adjusts for day night economy. The SSC also has the LED built in including six differant speed LEDs. There are a series of tests on the SSC in my 12/24 volt book. The BD50 will require a soft start feature if operated at max RPM in a warm climate, both of these controllers have soft start features. Dick |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
I'm ba aaaack! | ASA | |||
Keel bolt material | Boat Building | |||
Any thoughts onhow to make this boat better | ASA | |||
Robbie's false PHRF rating! Too low! | ASA | |||
where2 get cheap sounding lead ? | Cruising |