That's a good solution. If the stuff in the middle is either highly
compressible (like foam) or highly water-sensitive(like steel), then G-10
(fiberglass-epoxy) tubes are a very good thing. Has anyone found a
lower-cost supplier if this stuff than McMaster-Carr?


"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Doug,
This is a very serious problem if water should get in between laminations.
Although my boat is steel, the teak deck margin planks extend over the 12"
steel deck margin plate which extends all the way around the boat. I had
water leak through the cleat bolts between the teak and steel margins and
cause corrosion. The repair caused the destruction of the margin planks
(5200) and was very expensive and time consuming to repair.

My solution was to use plastic tubes that extend from the backing plates
to
the teak surface caulked in place with polysulphide. Then use bolts as
studs
from the backing plates through the tubes also thoroughly caulked with
polysulphide at the topside and the cleats then mount with nuts and
washers.
Leaks solved with insurance.
Steve

"DSK" wrote in message
...
derbyrm wrote:
What about the Gougeon Brothers' recommendation that the deck core be
sealed by boring the hole oversize, filling with thickened epoxy, and
then drilling the proper size hole in the epoxy; before the bedding and
backing?

If you do this, you should try to make the first hole only slightly
oversized; if you drill away too much of the skin laminations then your
deck fitting will be attached to epoxy filler rather than the deck.

A better way is to use a small angled tool to dig out the core from
around
the bolt holes, then fill between the skins with thickened epoxy. And
use
hi-density stuff that will take the compression of the mounting bolts.
Alternately, you can dish out the skins and lay up some new cloth over
the
sealing filler at the bolt holes.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King