Question ,,,, something I just never did ..
 

In my former life as a sailboat Captain [ that mean's I paid the bill for
the loan ] I never had to replace, rebed, or reattache, or put on new
........... hardware. Things such as cleats, winches, etc.

Could someone tell me the correct way to go about doing this with a
fiberglass boat.

Say, a cleat. I understand that there must be a screw, or whatever that
goes into the deck to hold the cleat in place,,,,, what about sealing the
deck. And, on the inside of the deck [ below ] is there a backing plate
that the fastener of the cleat goes down through? What type of bedding is
proper.

Just a quick go through.

Thanks ,,,

Question ,,,, something I just never did ..
 

"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news:eEvvf.4$%W3.0@trndny07...
In my former life as a sailboat Captain [ that mean's I paid the bill for
the loan ] I never had to replace, rebed, or reattache, or put on new
.......... hardware. Things such as cleats, winches, etc.

Could someone tell me the correct way to go about doing this with a
fiberglass boat.

Say, a cleat. I understand that there must be a screw, or whatever that
goes into the deck to hold the cleat in place.

Better use S/S bolts w/large washers.


,,,,, what about sealing the
deck.

Seal with 3M 5200 or Sikaflex


And, on the inside of the deck [ below ] is there a backing plate
that the fastener of the cleat goes down through?

Yes, a wood backing plate works well.

Question ,,,, something I just never did ..
 

I like 3/4 plywood with round corners and bedded with thickened epoxy.
"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news:eEvvf.4$%W3.0@trndny07...
In my former life as a sailboat Captain [ that mean's I paid the bill for
the loan ] I never had to replace, rebed, or reattache, or put on new
.......... hardware. Things such as cleats, winches, etc.

Could someone tell me the correct way to go about doing this with a
fiberglass boat.

Say, a cleat. I understand that there must be a screw, or whatever that
goes into the deck to hold the cleat in place,,,,, what about sealing the
deck. And, on the inside of the deck [ below ] is there a backing plate
that the fastener of the cleat goes down through? What type of bedding is
proper.

Just a quick go through.

Thanks ,,,

Question ,,,, something I just never did ..
 

The way I am doing it, right or wrong:
Locate your bolt positions and drill through the deck.
Set the fitting and tape around it with masking tape.
Remove fitting and apply a bead of 4200 around the perimeter of the unmasked
area and around the bolt holes. (5200 is to hard to remove without damaging
the deck down the road.)
Through bolt the fitting with a backing plate at least as large as the base
of the fitting. (I am using 1/4" 5083 aluminum because I have a lot of it
and it is easy to cut and drill.)
Tighten down the bolts just a turn or two past finger tight.
Remove the masking tape, clean up and let the 4200 cure for a day.
Tighten down the bolts fully so that the cured 4200 is in compression.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news:eEvvf.4$%W3.0@trndny07...
In my former life as a sailboat Captain [ that mean's I paid the bill for
the loan ] I never had to replace, rebed, or reattache, or put on new
.......... hardware. Things such as cleats, winches, etc.

Could someone tell me the correct way to go about doing this with a
fiberglass boat.

Say, a cleat. I understand that there must be a screw, or whatever that
goes into the deck to hold the cleat in place,,,,, what about sealing the
deck. And, on the inside of the deck [ below ] is there a backing plate
that the fastener of the cleat goes down through? What type of bedding is
proper.

Just a quick go through.

Thanks ,,,

Question ,,,, something I just never did ..
 

What about the Gougeon Brothers' recommendation that the deck core be sealed
by boring the hole oversize, filling with thickened epoxy, and then drilling
the proper size hole in the epoxy; before the bedding and backing?

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:6Sxvf.2743$Dh.1119@dukeread04...
The way I am doing it, right or wrong:
Locate your bolt positions and drill through the deck.
Set the fitting and tape around it with masking tape.
Remove fitting and apply a bead of 4200 around the perimeter of the
unmasked area and around the bolt holes. (5200 is to hard to remove
without damaging the deck down the road.)
Through bolt the fitting with a backing plate at least as large as the
base of the fitting. (I am using 1/4" 5083 aluminum because I have a lot
of it and it is easy to cut and drill.)
Tighten down the bolts just a turn or two past finger tight.
Remove the masking tape, clean up and let the 4200 cure for a day.
Tighten down the bolts fully so that the cured 4200 is in compression.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news:eEvvf.4$%W3.0@trndny07...
In my former life as a sailboat Captain [ that mean's I paid the bill for
the loan ] I never had to replace, rebed, or reattache, or put on new
.......... hardware. Things such as cleats, winches, etc.

Could someone tell me the correct way to go about doing this with a
fiberglass boat.

Say, a cleat. I understand that there must be a screw, or whatever that
goes into the deck to hold the cleat in place,,,,, what about sealing the
deck. And, on the inside of the deck [ below ] is there a backing plate
that the fastener of the cleat goes down through? What type of bedding
is proper.

Just a quick go through.

Thanks ,,,

Question ,,,, something I just never did ..
 

derbyrm wrote:
What about the Gougeon Brothers' recommendation that the deck core be sealed
by boring the hole oversize, filling with thickened epoxy, and then drilling
the proper size hole in the epoxy; before the bedding and backing?

If you do this, you should try to make the first hole only
slightly oversized; if you drill away too much of the skin
laminations then your deck fitting will be attached to epoxy
filler rather than the deck.

A better way is to use a small angled tool to dig out the
core from around the bolt holes, then fill between the skins
with thickened epoxy. And use hi-density stuff that will
take the compression of the mounting bolts. Alternately, you
can dish out the skins and lay up some new cloth over the
sealing filler at the bolt holes.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Question ,,,, something I just never did ..
 

It depends on the load on the fitting. Very lightly loaded items get
screwed to the deck with a sealant (NEVER 5200!). The most heavily loaded
items like winches and clutches and mooring cleats get the treatment in
which the holes are drilled 2x oversize, and filled with cabosil /epoxy
putty. When they've cured, they're sanded flush and drilled again the size
of the bolt. Backing plates can be aluminum, G-10 or plywood with fender
washers.The hardware and backing plate are bedded.

I recollect that in the West System website (or maybe in epoxyworks) is a
more structured analysis of what's appropriate for a given situation.

"derbyrm" wrote in message
news:7Vzvf.682130$x96.380410@attbi_s72...
What about the Gougeon Brothers' recommendation that the deck core be
sealed
by boring the hole oversize, filling with thickened epoxy, and then
drilling
the proper size hole in the epoxy; before the bedding and backing?

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:6Sxvf.2743$Dh.1119@dukeread04...
The way I am doing it, right or wrong:
Locate your bolt positions and drill through the deck.
Set the fitting and tape around it with masking tape.
Remove fitting and apply a bead of 4200 around the perimeter of the
unmasked area and around the bolt holes. (5200 is to hard to remove
without damaging the deck down the road.)
Through bolt the fitting with a backing plate at least as large as the
base of the fitting. (I am using 1/4" 5083 aluminum because I have a
lot
of it and it is easy to cut and drill.)
Tighten down the bolts just a turn or two past finger tight.
Remove the masking tape, clean up and let the 4200 cure for a day.
Tighten down the bolts fully so that the cured 4200 is in compression.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news:eEvvf.4$%W3.0@trndny07...
In my former life as a sailboat Captain [ that mean's I paid the bill
for
the loan ] I never had to replace, rebed, or reattache, or put on new
.......... hardware. Things such as cleats, winches, etc.

Could someone tell me the correct way to go about doing this with a
fiberglass boat.

Say, a cleat. I understand that there must be a screw, or whatever
that
goes into the deck to hold the cleat in place,,,,, what about sealing
the
deck. And, on the inside of the deck [ below ] is there a backing
plate
that the fastener of the cleat goes down through? What type of bedding
is proper.

Just a quick go through.

Thanks ,,,

Question ,,,, something I just never did ..
 

Doug,
This is a very serious problem if water should get in between laminations.
Although my boat is steel, the teak deck margin planks extend over the 12"
steel deck margin plate which extends all the way around the boat. I had
water leak through the cleat bolts between the teak and steel margins and
cause corrosion. The repair caused the destruction of the margin planks
(5200) and was very expensive and time consuming to repair.

My solution was to use plastic tubes that extend from the backing plates to
the teak surface caulked in place with polysulphide. Then use bolts as studs
from the backing plates through the tubes also thoroughly caulked with
polysulphide at the topside and the cleats then mount with nuts and washers.
Leaks solved with insurance.
Steve

"DSK" wrote in message
...
derbyrm wrote:
What about the Gougeon Brothers' recommendation that the deck core be
sealed by boring the hole oversize, filling with thickened epoxy, and
then drilling the proper size hole in the epoxy; before the bedding and
backing?

If you do this, you should try to make the first hole only slightly
oversized; if you drill away too much of the skin laminations then your
deck fitting will be attached to epoxy filler rather than the deck.

A better way is to use a small angled tool to dig out the core from around
the bolt holes, then fill between the skins with thickened epoxy. And use
hi-density stuff that will take the compression of the mounting bolts.
Alternately, you can dish out the skins and lay up some new cloth over the
sealing filler at the bolt holes.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Question ,,,, something I just never did ..
 

That's a good solution. If the stuff in the middle is either highly
compressible (like foam) or highly water-sensitive(like steel), then G-10
(fiberglass-epoxy) tubes are a very good thing. Has anyone found a
lower-cost supplier if this stuff than McMaster-Carr?


"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Doug,
This is a very serious problem if water should get in between laminations.
Although my boat is steel, the teak deck margin planks extend over the 12"
steel deck margin plate which extends all the way around the boat. I had
water leak through the cleat bolts between the teak and steel margins and
cause corrosion. The repair caused the destruction of the margin planks
(5200) and was very expensive and time consuming to repair.

My solution was to use plastic tubes that extend from the backing plates
to
the teak surface caulked in place with polysulphide. Then use bolts as
studs
from the backing plates through the tubes also thoroughly caulked with
polysulphide at the topside and the cleats then mount with nuts and
washers.
Leaks solved with insurance.
Steve

"DSK" wrote in message
...
derbyrm wrote:
What about the Gougeon Brothers' recommendation that the deck core be
sealed by boring the hole oversize, filling with thickened epoxy, and
then drilling the proper size hole in the epoxy; before the bedding and
backing?

If you do this, you should try to make the first hole only slightly
oversized; if you drill away too much of the skin laminations then your
deck fitting will be attached to epoxy filler rather than the deck.

A better way is to use a small angled tool to dig out the core from
around
the bolt holes, then fill between the skins with thickened epoxy. And
use
hi-density stuff that will take the compression of the mounting bolts.
Alternately, you can dish out the skins and lay up some new cloth over
the
sealing filler at the bolt holes.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Question ,,,, something I just never did ..
 

I would think you could fabricate an acceptable tube by using a dowel
as a form. Once the epoxy is set, drill out the wood. But I don't
know the details of G-10 so I'm just guessing.

"Jim Conlin" writes:

That's a good solution. If the stuff in the middle is either highly
compressible (like foam) or highly water-sensitive(like steel), then G-10
(fiberglass-epoxy) tubes are a very good thing. Has anyone found a
lower-cost supplier if this stuff than McMaster-Carr?



--