Question ,,,, something I just never did ..
 

This is what I come here to see. Not a lot of nitpickin' between two old
men!!!!!
"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
. ..
It depends on the load on the fitting. Very lightly loaded items get
screwed to the deck with a sealant (NEVER 5200!). The most heavily loaded
items like winches and clutches and mooring cleats get the treatment in
which the holes are drilled 2x oversize, and filled with cabosil /epoxy
putty. When they've cured, they're sanded flush and drilled again the
size
of the bolt. Backing plates can be aluminum, G-10 or plywood with fender
washers.The hardware and backing plate are bedded.

I recollect that in the West System website (or maybe in epoxyworks) is a
more structured analysis of what's appropriate for a given situation.

"derbyrm" wrote in message
news:7Vzvf.682130$x96.380410@attbi_s72...
What about the Gougeon Brothers' recommendation that the deck core be
sealed
by boring the hole oversize, filling with thickened epoxy, and then
drilling
the proper size hole in the epoxy; before the bedding and backing?

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:6Sxvf.2743$Dh.1119@dukeread04...
The way I am doing it, right or wrong:
Locate your bolt positions and drill through the deck.
Set the fitting and tape around it with masking tape.
Remove fitting and apply a bead of 4200 around the perimeter of the
unmasked area and around the bolt holes. (5200 is to hard to remove
without damaging the deck down the road.)
Through bolt the fitting with a backing plate at least as large as the
base of the fitting. (I am using 1/4" 5083 aluminum because I have a
lot
of it and it is easy to cut and drill.)
Tighten down the bolts just a turn or two past finger tight.
Remove the masking tape, clean up and let the 4200 cure for a day.
Tighten down the bolts fully so that the cured 4200 is in compression.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or
lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news:eEvvf.4$%W3.0@trndny07...
In my former life as a sailboat Captain [ that mean's I paid the bill
for
the loan ] I never had to replace, rebed, or reattache, or put on new
.......... hardware. Things such as cleats, winches, etc.

Could someone tell me the correct way to go about doing this with a
fiberglass boat.

Say, a cleat. I understand that there must be a screw, or whatever
that
goes into the deck to hold the cleat in place,,,,, what about sealing
the
deck. And, on the inside of the deck [ below ] is there a backing
plate
that the fastener of the cleat goes down through? What type of
bedding
is proper.

Just a quick go through.

Thanks ,,,

Question ,,,, something I just never did ..
 

I don't intend to start a problem, but what is below is wrong.

Very lightly loaded items get
screwed to the deck with a sealant (NEVER 5200!).

Always through-bolt (see below) major cause of rotting deck.

The most heavily loaded
items like winches and clutches and mooring cleats get the treatment in
which the holes are drilled 2x oversize, and filled with cabosil /epoxy
putty. When they've cured, they're sanded flush and drilled again the
size
of the bolt. Backing plates can be aluminum, G-10 or plywood with fender
washers.

You come from underneath with a hole saw to remove inner skin and core.
Clean excess hole with wood chisel from innerskin side. Leaves pilot hole
and outer skin intact.
Fill hole with putty and redrill.

The hardware and backing plate are bedded.

This technique has caused 10s of thousands of failures. This bedding
technique you describe IS the major
cause of deck failures. Improper thru-hull bedding is the major cause of
hull failures.

You only want to bed the top of the hardware.

That fails first. If is fails, you will never know it from inside the boat.

Instead of the waterleaking in the boat, It will go in the core, causing rot
and failure. A few years of winter freezing,
(expanding) and your deck is delaminated and rotted. Bedding your backing
plates and holding the
water in your deck is catastrophic.

YOU WANT TO KNOW IF YOUR FITTINGS ARE LEAKING, or you can destroy your boat.



"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
. ..
It depends on the load on the fitting. Very lightly loaded items get
screwed to the deck with a sealant (NEVER 5200!). The most heavily loaded
items like winches and clutches and mooring cleats get the treatment in
which the holes are drilled 2x oversize, and filled with cabosil /epoxy
putty. When they've cured, they're sanded flush and drilled again the
size
of the bolt. Backing plates can be aluminum, G-10 or plywood with fender
washers.The hardware and backing plate are bedded.

I recollect that in the West System website (or maybe in epoxyworks) is a
more structured analysis of what's appropriate for a given situation.

"derbyrm" wrote in message
news:7Vzvf.682130$x96.380410@attbi_s72...
What about the Gougeon Brothers' recommendation that the deck core be
sealed
by boring the hole oversize, filling with thickened epoxy, and then
drilling
the proper size hole in the epoxy; before the bedding and backing?

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:6Sxvf.2743$Dh.1119@dukeread04...
The way I am doing it, right or wrong:
Locate your bolt positions and drill through the deck.
Set the fitting and tape around it with masking tape.
Remove fitting and apply a bead of 4200 around the perimeter of the
unmasked area and around the bolt holes. (5200 is to hard to remove
without damaging the deck down the road.)
Through bolt the fitting with a backing plate at least as large as the
base of the fitting. (I am using 1/4" 5083 aluminum because I have a
lot
of it and it is easy to cut and drill.)
Tighten down the bolts just a turn or two past finger tight.
Remove the masking tape, clean up and let the 4200 cure for a day.
Tighten down the bolts fully so that the cured 4200 is in compression.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or
lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news:eEvvf.4$%W3.0@trndny07...
In my former life as a sailboat Captain [ that mean's I paid the bill
for
the loan ] I never had to replace, rebed, or reattache, or put on new
.......... hardware. Things such as cleats, winches, etc.

Could someone tell me the correct way to go about doing this with a
fiberglass boat.

Say, a cleat. I understand that there must be a screw, or whatever
that
goes into the deck to hold the cleat in place,,,,, what about sealing
the
deck. And, on the inside of the deck [ below ] is there a backing
plate
that the fastener of the cleat goes down through? What type of
bedding
is proper.

Just a quick go through.

Thanks ,,,