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If this is not a "troll", then read on:
I would have a problem with you mixing the two types of resins - I wouldn't buy the boat. It's not because of the epoxy - I'm not convinced that the poly should be next to the hull. I have had great luck with epoxy staying stuck to wood. Not so with poly - it's designed to stick to itself and fiberglass, and f/glass, and itself. I've had delaminations occur on my tests in using poly to stick f/g to a wood hull. It may take a few years to happen, but thats why I wouldn't buy a used boat constructed that way. It may work wonderfully for years, and I hope it will for you, However, do a lot of reading on the chemistry and bonding characteristics before you sacrifice sweat and wallet-padding. It will be cheaper to build it only once (duh... but true). I have spent *months* in the past going over it, and over it again, to eventually "bite the bullet" and get epoxy, and so far am still glad. litmus test: If it's a boat to be proud of, its worth the epoxy. If it's a boat to : try a new design - poly take care of for 20 years - epoxy beat up, and become a 'planter' in 4 years - poly. make a f/g mold for a one-off - poly annoy others with fumes - poly - - - Why not slap together a cheap-ply row boat, and test this out, first. make itunder 8ft and you can build it out of 1 or 2 sheets of plywood, ~4mm. Then glass it - the poly wont be all that much for one gallon, thats the premise, here. Maybe buy the glass for both all at once, n save a few bucks. On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 23:43:21 +0100, "carlp" wrote: Anyone have suggestions or problems resulting from the use of polyester for the bulk of construction and epoxy to seal the polyester, say a 85 gm.glass woven cloth impregnated with epoxy . Only the cost saving would be large, considering the difference in the price of the two resins. I have started on the frames of a 23 ft. WL. sailboat, strong back is in place. cheers Carl. |
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