On 20 Sep 2003 04:30:27 -0700, (Al) wrote:

Nobody mentioned it, so I will. If you are using epoxy, be aware that white
oak can sometimes work, sometimes not. I've heard a lot of arguments as to
why, but I've not seen a lot of answers for how to guarantee that epoxy will
stick to white oak as well as it sticks to other types of woods. White oak
is more rot resistant than red, so don't be tempted to use red oak because
it glues better.

I'm using clinker construction in a bid to keep glue/resin usage to a
minimum. I don't particularly enjoy working with epoxies, but I do
enjoy working with mechanical fastenings and good quality wood.
Great! I agree. Slathering goo is not particularly enjoyable to me.

I may
have to laminate knees however as I can't come up with any sources for
grown crooks, and the stem will have to be, at least in part, a
lamination.
There are specialist that offer crooks. Do a Google search. Here are
some suggestions for your side of the Atlantic:
http://www.covboat.demon.co.uk/sustainability.htm

If you have time you can easily get apple from an orchard which is
being pulled out. Takes time to season though.

As far as the cedar goes, I only have Western Red available to me, I
apologise for not specifying this earlier, does this alter your
analysis? As a matter of interest, why are you recommending the cedar
over the oak, is it just ease of working?

In the US, as far as I know, oak was never used for small boat
planking.

Oak is heavy and hard to work. It is stronger of course. The strength
is just not needed. The Lawley yard had a saying about their thin
scantlings on their dinghies. Something to the effect that if the boat
is going on the rocks, the difference between 3/8 and 7/16 is not
important.