Hi! I have an old MD1 that is leaking water(into the oil). The problem
is I don't have a clue where it leaks. Anyone that know where I should
seek, and if it's worthwhile (I already spent a week trying to locate
the fault). Otherwise, the engine is in top condition if it weren't
for this (minor... ehh..) problem.

Kind regards
Niclas

To my knowledge (had several MD2 engines), there is not water passage that
would allow the water to get into the oil.

However, that stated; there are two possible causes that I can think of.

1. The water pump is mounted on the crank case and there could be leaking
pump seals. Actually that would mean that both seals are leaking and the
weep hole is plugged.

2. The is a very remote possibility that the water passage between the head
and the cylinder has a "leak-over" via a bad head gasket. This would mean
that the water is finding it's way to the oil drain back passage where the
push rods come up from the cam.

Frankly, I think #1 is your source of water or it is due to condensation
that is acculating in the crank case. (I have had this problem in my Entec
gen set due to the alum. crankcase and infrequent useage.)

If you need the manuals for this engine (owners or shop manual) I have them
on my web site at http://hood.hctc.com/~esteve/private/manuals/


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

"Steve" wrote in message ...
To my knowledge (had several MD2 engines), there is not water passage that
would allow the water to get into the oil.

However, that stated; there are two possible causes that I can think of.

1. The water pump is mounted on the crank case and there could be leaking
pump seals. Actually that would mean that both seals are leaking and the
weep hole is plugged.

2. The is a very remote possibility that the water passage between the head
and the cylinder has a "leak-over" via a bad head gasket. This would mean
that the water is finding it's way to the oil drain back passage where the
push rods come up from the cam.

Frankly, I think #1 is your source of water or it is due to condensation
that is acculating in the crank case. (I have had this problem in my Entec
gen set due to the alum. crankcase and infrequent useage.)

If you need the manuals for this engine (owners or shop manual) I have them
on my web site at http://hood.hctc.com/~esteve/private/manuals/

Thank you for your reply. After I had the engine put together again,
the engine started perfectly, but not soon after water literally
"flooded" from the injection where the engine gets the fuel (don't
know the right english words for engine parts). After checking the oil
level there seemed to be a lot of water in the oil in a short span of
time (1-2 min). No leakage was found before the engine started. Maybe
that speaks for the water pump and leaking pump seals.
Thanks again!
best regards
Niclas

I'm not sure I understand when you say that the water is coming out of the
'injection'.

If you are getting water from the injection port (hole) then you have a bad
head gasket or a cracked head.

There are several way that this water could eventually get into the oil in
the crank case.. If it gets into the cylinder, then it will leak by the
rings and into the crank case or if the head gasket is really bad, it could
run back through the oil drain back passage (as I mentioned previously).

I just looked at the shop manual and note that there is a copper sleeve
pressed into the head and the injector seats into this copper sleeve. There
is a O ring at the top and the lower end of the sleeve is "spread" by a
special tool when installed.

Is is possible that when the injector was removed that it was siezed to this
sleeve and in pulling it out, this sleeve was pulled loose??

The O ring at the top would then allow water to leak out, as you mention and
the disturbed metal to metal seal at the bottom would allow the leakage into
the cylinder.

You will see what I'm talking about if you look at Fig. 8 and 9 in the
workshop manual.

If this is your problem, then you will have to have the sleeve reseated by a
shop equipt with the special Volvo tool.

Good luck.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

The MD shop manual goes into great detail on how to install those shaft
seals. If the seals are purchased from Volvo (about $7 each) they should be
of the correct type of rubber for salt water and the garter spring should be
of stainless.

I always seem to end up changing any Volvo OEM pumps over to the Johnson
pumps but, if I remember correctly, the seals are the same size. The new
MD2B that I just installed in my boat came with a Johnson pump.

The biggest mistake a MD (or other) owners might make, is to allow or
intentionally blocking the weep hole in the pump mount housing.. This is
suppose to be a drain for any water that gets by the water side seal and
keep it from passing the oil side seal. The lip of the oil side seal faces
inward, towards the crank case and if water pressure builds up in the mount
housing, the water will leak right by a the oil side seal.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

SInce this is a MD1 thread I would like to ask another MD1 question. Anyone
have any recommendations for where to get parts for a Volvo MD1 and can
recommend a shop that will work on them? I am on the Chesapeake middle bay
area.

I have a project boat and a MD1 that I can't turn over by hand (I am reluctant
to try to start an engine which I can't rotate the shaft). It looks in pretty
fair shape on the outside with no obvious signs of water intrusion. I was going
to pull the head to see what the bore looks like but I manage to cut my palm
almost to the bone. So I might be looking for a mechanic to check it over.

JJ

P.S. Before working on your house be very, very sure that the ground under the
ladder is firm enough so that said ladder leg will not sink unevenly causing
ladder to go down sliding sideways. Ask me how I know.


On Fri, 1 Aug 2003 11:20:10 -0700, "Steve" wrote:

The MD shop manual goes into great detail on how to install those shaft
seals. If the seals are purchased from Volvo (about $7 each) they should be
of the correct type of rubber for salt water and the garter spring should be
of stainless.

I always seem to end up changing any Volvo OEM pumps over to the Johnson
pumps but, if I remember correctly, the seals are the same size. The new
MD2B that I just installed in my boat came with a Johnson pump.

The biggest mistake a MD (or other) owners might make, is to allow or
intentionally blocking the weep hole in the pump mount housing.. This is
suppose to be a drain for any water that gets by the water side seal and
keep it from passing the oil side seal. The lip of the oil side seal faces
inward, towards the crank case and if water pressure builds up in the mount
housing, the water will leak right by a the oil side seal.

James Johnson
remove the dot from after sail in email address to reply

Niclas Flatholm wrote:

Hi! I have an old MD1 that is leaking water(into the oil). The problem
is I don't have a clue where it leaks. Anyone that know where I should
seek, and if it's worthwhile (I already spent a week trying to locate
the fault). Otherwise, the engine is in top condition if it weren't
for this (minor... ehh..) problem.

Kind regards
Niclas

MD-1B. We had water in the engine oil. Caused by putting mains
water pressure on the water intake hose whereas the cooling pump
is only supposed to 'suck' the cooling sea water from the intake
cock at zero pressure. This must have forced water past the pump
seals into the crankcase? After correcting this, engine ran OK
for two seasons following.
About to redo our MD-1 (boat has been up on shore for many years
due to illness and a death in the family) I am most grateful for
the comments in this thread regarding those water pump seals.
The suggestion about leakage past the injector is a good one
also. Terry.