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William R. Watt
 
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I use it as a replacement for urea forlaydehyde (plastic resin) adhesive.
The polyurethane cures at 50 deg F instead of 70 deg F and the pieces can be
repositioned up to 45 minutes after application.

Like the other poster I've used it for laminating, ie gluing two pieces of
plywood together to make a thiker piece, using weights while curing.

I mostly use polyurethane mastic with screws in chine batten constuction
instead of the more costly taped seam construction with epoxy (although
David Bead at www.simplicityboats.com) has been experimenting with
polyuretyane taped seam construction. I use inexpensive zinc plated wood
screws which eliminates the need to buy clamps to hold
pieces togehter while curing. Sometimes I remove the screws after the glue
has set and fill the screw holes with drops of polyester resin. I like to
build small, cheap, lightweight, boats I can pickup and carry in one hand.

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Unfortunately, I just followed the directions on the bottle of Gorilla
Glue that really do not emphasize the required clamping. It may have
some applications but as it seems tricky to use, I will avoid it. I
lalso wonder if it is really "waterproof" since I seem to be seeing it
give up on prolonged saturation.

W. Watt:
Your use of a light to spot voids is interesting.

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William R. Watt
 
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Your use of a light to spot voids is interesting.


That's standard procedure among people who use Lauan for boat building.
It's more or less a necessity, due to the prevalence of voids in the
material.


That's nice to read. I first reported my discovery of the technique in
this here newsgroup back in late 1999 when building my first boat
(Dogskiff) out of the cheap plywood.



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William R. Watt
 
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Your use of a light to spot voids is interesting.


It works for thin plywood.
Someone repeated here what he read in a book of a boatbuilder noticing a void
from the way dew settled on the hull overnight.

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