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#1
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Hi,
Thanks again to all for the help. I plan on going to the local university library to learn a bit more about fiberglass before making my decision. Do you have any personal favorite books on the subject? The Vaitses book has already been mentioned, it is on my list. I'd like something fairly basic, nothing that gets too in-depth about the chemistry, or about industrial-type methods. I'd like to learn about covering plywood with glass, making a 1-use mold, and also free-forming (doesn't have to all be the same book). Also I'd like to learn about the different properties of mats/cloths, different types of resins, gel coats, foams, etc. Thanks. |
#2
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I don't think a university library will be much use . The sorts of things
you need to know are exactly what Universities are NOT about. I'd spend a bit more time on the web, looking at manufacturer's sites. I'd also do some careful cost estimates based on what you might end up paying for appropriate materials. Then double it for the inevitable learning curve and wastage costs for the first time one- off, add another 100% for fixing it sometime in the future ... and compare this with what a commercial product is worth. You might decide it's not something you want to do. Perhaps talk to a small commercial manufacturer, see if you can make a mould and have them produce from it ... David wrote in message oups.com... Hi, Thanks again to all for the help. I plan on going to the local university library to learn a bit more about fiberglass before making my decision. Do you have any personal favorite books on the subject? The Vaitses book has already been mentioned, it is on my list. I'd like something fairly basic, nothing that gets too in-depth about the chemistry, or about industrial-type methods. I'd like to learn about covering plywood with glass, making a 1-use mold, and also free-forming (doesn't have to all be the same book). Also I'd like to learn about the different properties of mats/cloths, different types of resins, gel coats, foams, etc. Thanks. |
#3
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Try to find "The Gougeon Brothers on Boatbuilding." These are the guys that
developed and marketed West System epoxies and their newsletter has described uses including lots of applications in swimming pools, architectural stuff, etc. As you might suspect, the book describes the many boats they've built using all sorts of techniques. Well written with lots of pictures. Their techniques work well with System Three products, but don't tell them. http://www.westsystem.com/ System Three gives away "The Epoxy Book" on their web site. http://www.systemthree.com/index_2.asp Free if you register and download and print it yourself. It covers much of the same material in a lot fewer pages, but do read both. (Skip the first few paragraphs of The Epoxy Book if you really don't want to hear about the chemistry.) Roger (I think S3 might have less blush than West, but then maybe I've just been lucky.) http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm wrote in message oups.com... Hi, Thanks again to all for the help. I plan on going to the local university library to learn a bit more about fiberglass before making my decision. Do you have any personal favorite books on the subject? The Vaitses book has already been mentioned, it is on my list. I'd like something fairly basic, nothing that gets too in-depth about the chemistry, or about industrial-type methods. I'd like to learn about covering plywood with glass, making a 1-use mold, and also free-forming (doesn't have to all be the same book). Also I'd like to learn about the different properties of mats/cloths, different types of resins, gel coats, foams, etc. Thanks. |
#4
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Hi,
Having read some of the references you folks directed me to, I think I've eliminated some options. I'm going to either use: - exterior grade (ie CDX) or high density overlay (HDO) plywood, with a coat or two of quality epoxy, and make a 5'x7'x3' box. I don't think I'd even glass it, just caulk the seams and put a liner in. One problem with this method is that if I used 4x8 sheets of plywood, the 5'x7' bottom would have to have a horizontal seam. I'm guessing I'd spend $150-250, plus the liner. - cold-mold a tub with more comfortable contours and curves, using 3-5 layers of approx 1/8" fir (because I have an enormous free supply) I've read in an article (not sure of the date) that cold-molding cost about $3.30 per pound, at 1 pound per square foot, including the cost of the wood. My tub would be about 107 sq ft. So by that person's calculation, it would cost just over $350 for the raw materials. I'm wondering how much of that cost was due to the wood, and how much for the epoxy. I have a good amount of free time, and would love an excuse to learn this method, so labor isn't an issue. - I've heard that there was an article in Home Mechanix (somewhere around 1990, I haven't found it yet) that described plans for building a tub by fiberglassing over masonite (hardboard). Sounds interesting, but I'd like to find the article first. Masonite is very cheap, and that "supply of fir" I have includes 2x4's, which could be used for additional framing. Thanks for the continuing help. |
#5
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I wouldn't worry about the seam (5x7 vs 4x8). Scarfing isn't hard, but this
would probably be the place to use the technique of just putting fiberglass tape on each side of the plywood along the joint. Your structure makes up for any lack of strength and you can fair in the lump easily. I'd think CDX was the way to go. HDO is much nicer with fewer voids and more plies, but you don't need it and it's pricier. For boats, it takes bends with fewer lumps. Too bad you didn't buy the lumber before Katrina hit. Roger http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm wrote in message oups.com... I've eliminated some options. I'm going to either use: - exterior grade (ie CDX) or high density overlay (HDO) plywood, with a coat or two of quality epoxy, and make a 5'x7'x3' box. I don't think I'd even glass it, just caulk the seams and put a liner in. One problem with this method is that if I used 4x8 sheets of plywood, the 5'x7' bottom would have to have a horizontal seam. I'm guessing I'd spend $150-250, plus the liner. - cold-mold a tub with more comfortable contours and curves, using 3-5 layers of approx 1/8" fir (because I have an enormous free supply) I've read in an article (not sure of the date) that cold-molding cost about $3.30 per pound, at 1 pound per square foot, including the cost of the wood. My tub would be about 107 sq ft. So by that person's calculation, it would cost just over $350 for the raw materials. I'm wondering how much of that cost was due to the wood, and how much for the epoxy. I have a good amount of free time, and would love an excuse to learn this method, so labor isn't an issue. - I've heard that there was an article in Home Mechanix (somewhere around 1990, I haven't found it yet) that described plans for building a tub by fiberglassing over masonite (hardboard). Sounds interesting, but I'd like to find the article first. Masonite is very cheap, and that "supply of fir" I have includes 2x4's, which could be used for additional framing. Thanks for the continuing help. |
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