I need to replace the rub rails in a 15' Lyman. I've shaped the bevel
on the rear sections which have no curvature and cut a scarf on the
end. I now need a 12' section of curved rail to mate to this scarf. I
really would like to shape them first but am at a loss on how to do
this with a straight oak rail. When shaping (with no4 stanley) the
bevel with the rear sections, I've tried various techniques with a
bevel gauge, but never found a great technique of matching the bevel
hull to rail. Anyone care to share their secret? I suspect there is a
simple way to do this. Lasty, I have read the SB FAQ and feel that I
can assemble a steam setup, but I don't know if I should shape the
bevel first and then steam or vice versa. Am I overlooking something?


Many thanks in advance!!!
SS

I'd bend first and bevel second. It makes the amount of bend less
critical. (Remember to overbend somewhat. It straightens easily.

For the bevel, I'd get close by spiling or eyeball and then use a variation
on the carbon paper trick of letting the boat tell you where the high spots
are.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

wrote in message
oups.com...
I need to replace the rub rails in a 15' Lyman. I've shaped the bevel
on the rear sections which have no curvature and cut a scarf on the
end. I now need a 12' section of curved rail to mate to this scarf. I
really would like to shape them first but am at a loss on how to do
this with a straight oak rail. When shaping (with no4 stanley) the
bevel with the rear sections, I've tried various techniques with a
bevel gauge, but never found a great technique of matching the bevel
hull to rail. Anyone care to share their secret? I suspect there is a
simple way to do this. Lasty, I have read the SB FAQ and feel that I
can assemble a steam setup, but I don't know if I should shape the
bevel first and then steam or vice versa. Am I overlooking something?


Many thanks in advance!!!
SS

Thanks Roger!

Would you use the hull for clamping after steamed or build a jig for
the curved part? I'll have to get out Boatbuilding and read up on
spiling, I thought that sort of thing was for planks/strakes.
Thanks again,
SS

If you added shims to get the overbend. Like I say, it's easy to unbend a
little and you don't want any significant built-in tension waiting for a
misguided docking evolution to cause a SPROING.

Spiling works for any task where two irregular shapes come together. The
simplest form is to just lay a wooden pencil on one surface and draw on the
piece to be cut. (You don't have to cut to the line, but there could be
some shapes that would introduce an error if you offset the cut a constant
distance from the line.)

A shoemaker's rasp and filled epoxy are both wonderful inventions.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks Roger!

Would you use the hull for clamping after steamed or build a jig for
the curved part? I'll have to get out Boatbuilding and read up on
spiling, I thought that sort of thing was for planks/strakes.
Thanks again,
SS

I cannot imagine you will need to steam bend rubrails on the Lyman. You
will need lots of clamps however. Cutting the bevel on the end is the last
step!
wrote in message
oups.com...
I need to replace the rub rails in a 15' Lyman. I've shaped the bevel
on the rear sections which have no curvature and cut a scarf on the
end. I now need a 12' section of curved rail to mate to this scarf. I
really would like to shape them first but am at a loss on how to do
this with a straight oak rail. When shaping (with no4 stanley) the
bevel with the rear sections, I've tried various techniques with a
bevel gauge, but never found a great technique of matching the bevel
hull to rail. Anyone care to share their secret? I suspect there is a
simple way to do this. Lasty, I have read the SB FAQ and feel that I
can assemble a steam setup, but I don't know if I should shape the
bevel first and then steam or vice versa. Am I overlooking something?


Many thanks in advance!!!
SS

Spiling is like scribing, huh? I did this for the other rail sections
with decent results. The hardest part doing these sections are making
the bevel so to keep the top of the rail in plane with the deck beams
and what not. I'm kind of assuming most boats are like this, but maybe
not. The deck ply is mounted on top of the rail. More fun is the
parts I'll be working on have a changing bevel from fore (down) to aft
(up). I'll admit I originally thought when I bought the boat, I'd just
have to run 1" stock through the table saw for a bevel, caulk, and
stick some screws in it. I have newfound respect for boatwrights.

However, lots of clamps I have! Most guys around here have advised to
laminate, but I'm going for original construction. I tried clamping
air dried stock top it once but wimped out from being aggressive with
the clamping force. Maybe every 6" will work.

Thanks for all the help thus far!
SS