I'd bend first and bevel second. It makes the amount of bend less
critical. (Remember to overbend somewhat. It straightens easily.

For the bevel, I'd get close by spiling or eyeball and then use a variation
on the carbon paper trick of letting the boat tell you where the high spots
are.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

wrote in message
oups.com...
I need to replace the rub rails in a 15' Lyman. I've shaped the bevel
on the rear sections which have no curvature and cut a scarf on the
end. I now need a 12' section of curved rail to mate to this scarf. I
really would like to shape them first but am at a loss on how to do
this with a straight oak rail. When shaping (with no4 stanley) the
bevel with the rear sections, I've tried various techniques with a
bevel gauge, but never found a great technique of matching the bevel
hull to rail. Anyone care to share their secret? I suspect there is a
simple way to do this. Lasty, I have read the SB FAQ and feel that I
can assemble a steam setup, but I don't know if I should shape the
bevel first and then steam or vice versa. Am I overlooking something?


Many thanks in advance!!!
SS