Man, I used this stuff for the first time, last week, and have seen
nothing like it! Ease of use (no mixing), and strength. I glued a scrap
piece of 2 X 4 together (90 degree angle) and when set-up, I could not break
the joint!! I had to swing it "sledge hammer" style to finally break the
test piece...and you probably guessed what's coming next...It did NOT break
the glue joint, but the wood around it. Any reason NOT to use this in place
of epoxy for adhesive when building the frame work for my "Glen-L ZZZip"???
Thanks for any input. Norm

Norm:

Search within this newsgroup (Google/Groups) for "PU Glue" and
specifically the thread "Gorilla glue good for marine use?".

You'll find that this has been dealt with extensively in the past.

MW

Norm II wrote:
Man, I used this stuff for the first time, last week, and have seen
nothing like it! Ease of use (no mixing), and strength. I glued a scrap
piece of 2 X 4 together (90 degree angle) and when set-up, I could not break
the joint!! I had to swing it "sledge hammer" style to finally break the
test piece...and you probably guessed what's coming next...It did NOT break
the glue joint, but the wood around it. Any reason NOT to use this in place
of epoxy for adhesive when building the frame work for my "Glen-L ZZZip"???

There are a couple of caveats with PU glues. To get any the maximum
strength out of it, it must be prevented from expanding. If allowed to
foam, it loses nearly all its strength. So:

1) The parts to be joined must be carefully fitted. Gaps must be kept to
an absolute minimum. Do not use PU glue in gap-filling applications!

2) The parts must be tightly clamped, otherwise the glue will expand and
force them apart. I've also found that PU glues are very slippery and
parts will tend to move in relation to each other unless they're
carefully controlled.

Whether this fits with the project you have in mind is for you to determine.

You've noted some of the advantages of PU glue and I'll add one to the
list. It doesn't damage cutting tools the way harder glues like epoxy can.

Huh?

I do my epoxy gluing with wood flour thickened System Three, and, to the
best of my knowledge, it cuts like wood. ("Wood" covers a broad range of
characteristics.)

What brand of epoxy is hard enough to damage cutting tools?

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"Brian Nystrom" wrote in message
news:GkRwe.11950$JM6.6541@trndny05...

You've noted some of the advantages of PU glue and I'll add one to the
list. It doesn't damage cutting tools the way harder glues like epoxy can.

Thanks for the input. Thanks also for pointing out how to search for
previous posts on the subject. I don't like to be a bother with "newbie
questions". I'll certainly check first before being redundant. I'll be using
PU adhesives for now on with good fitting joints, as it is so nice to be
able to use "straight out of the bottle" versus mixing up a "little bit" and
scrambling trying to find a place to "use" the leftover. Thanks again!
Norm

PU glue should be fine for screwed and glued joints. I use the PL Premuim
construction adhesive that way. With the feinforcment of the wood screws it
fills gaps just fine. It acts as an adhesive bedding. I've also removed
the wood scews after the glue has dried on 2 small boats (bottom skids)
and have had no sign of separation in 3 years. The boats are stored
upside down outside exposed to weather. They don't spend much
(enough) time in the water.

"Norm II" ) writes:
Thanks for the input. Thanks also for pointing out how to search for
previous posts on the subject. I don't like to be a bother with "newbie
questions". I'll certainly check first before being redundant. I'll be using
PU adhesives for now on with good fitting joints, as it is so nice to be
able to use "straight out of the bottle" versus mixing up a "little bit" and
scrambling trying to find a place to "use" the leftover. Thanks again!
Norm




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PU glue should be fine for screwed and glued joints. I use the PL Premuim
construction adhesive that way. With the feinforcment of the wood screws
it
fills gaps just fine. It acts as an adhesive bedding. I've also removed
the wood scews after the glue has dried on 2 small boats (bottom skids)
and have had no sign of separation in 3 years. The boats are stored
upside down outside exposed to weather. They don't spend much
(enough) time in the water.


What exactly is PL Premium...Something I can find at Home Depot?? Thanks.
Norm

Do not use it. DO NOT USE IT. I used it for my two MiniCups and now
regret it. It has no strength in gap filling. It loses its strength
after prolonged immersion (like if you get water in a floatation tank).
Use epoxy instead.
I essentially had to take apart my MiniCups;
one nearly fell apart due to the Gorilla Glue weakening, to remove the
weakened Gorilla Glue and to fillet all the joints with epoxy.
I have used Gorilla Glue to repair chairs and within a month they
needed to be repaired again. I then used epoxy and they are solid
months later.

Joints which were glued with Gorilla Glue and then screwed together (on
the boats) easily came apart by prying, the glue failed. I was
horrified when I saw how weak this stuff is.

Subject

Over priced and under peckered.

Strictly garbage IMHO.

Lew