DSK wrote:
wrote:

Do not use it. DO NOT USE IT. I used it for my two MiniCups and now
regret it. It has no strength in gap filling.


Well, sure. That's one of the really great things about epoxy & fillers.
Of course, it means old-time precision ship carpentry is a thing of the
past, but we don't need it.

I have used Gorilla Glue to repair chairs and within a month they
needed to be repaired again. I then used epoxy and they are solid
months later.


I wonder if Gorilla Glue has a very low number of fatigue cycles to
failure. Another amazing thing about epoxy!

In an appropriate application, either one is stonger than the
surrounding wood. The concept of fatigue cycles doesn't even apply,
since the weak link is the wood, not the adhesive.

Don't misunderstand and think that I have something against epoxy or
that I'm claiming that PU glue is a viable substitute for it in every
application. That's not true at all. I just don't like seeing a good
product get maligned because someone used it improperly and got a bad
result.

I definitely used it as per instructions. I also used screws every 3"
to hold stringers to the ply with the Gorilla Glue. When I took the
boat apart, I was easily able to pry them apart after removing the
screws. There is no doubt there was sufficient clamping force.
In my furniture repairs, I also followed the directions and clamped
things well and the Gorilla Glue failed. I do not believe I am an
idiot so I tend to think that if I followed the directions and was
careful and it did not work, there may be a problem. It seems that
epoxy is more firgiving.

I prefer epoxy, but I find Gorilla Glue is the better
glue when your wood is very wet & green, or if you
are working outside in the rain.

Epoxy doesn't stick with very wet conditions,
but Gorilla Glue sticks best when water is
present. Indeed, I usually wet down the
mating surfaces with a spray bottle of water
prior to applying the glue.

I would use Gorilla Glue more if it weren't
so expensive. Thickened epoxy is cheaper
and usually better.