I have a 1983 Bayliner, fiberglass. In the engine room there are 2
transducers with the wires cut at the top, are not being used. I am pulling
the boat to paint the bottom and IO. Is it a good idea to pull the
transducers out and plug holes?



If so how much time will it take for me to do it and how to do it?



Where can I get CLEAR information?



Thank you!

Having repaired windsurfers and built a boat, your question is easy.
Fixing the transducer holes is as easy as patching a hole in your wall
to paint. Get yourself some two part epoxy from Tap Plastics or check
out Jamestown distributers on line.

Prepare the holes by sanding anything loose away and then mix a little
bit of epoxy and add something to make it like a loose puddy. This can
be very fine sawdust, fiberglass dust from sanding your boat or glass
microballoons that you can buy at Tap Plastics or Jamestown or where
ever. You will need about twice as much of the thickening agent as
epoxy. Now push this into the holes and wait for it to dry. Now, sand
and add a second coat to get a smooth even finish. It will take a day
to two days to dry and a two weeks till you can paint.

OR!!! Marine Tex is a great product and you can have the holes fixed
and painted in two days. It will work fine unless you need to repair a
a large area that needs a more structual repair, then your back to the
epoxy and fiberglass cloth.
On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 04:20:08 GMT, "Dave"
wrote:

I have a 1983 Bayliner, fiberglass. In the engine room there are 2
transducers with the wires cut at the top, are not being used. I am pulling
the boat to paint the bottom and IO. Is it a good idea to pull the
transducers out and plug holes?



If so how much time will it take for me to do it and how to do it?



Where can I get CLEAR information?



Thank you!

I agree that it's easy, but not with the proposed method or timeline.
Any of the major epoxy boat building epoxy manufacturers will have
information on how to approach this on their web sites. If removing the
transducers is going to improve the integrity of the hull I'd do it,
otherwise I'd be tempted to leave it alone. but I don't like unnecessary
holes, so I'd probably be doing it ...

- I'd be using a reasonably close fitting wooden plug to provide some
strength and minimise the epoxy work, but others might suggest that the
repair be totally glass
- any filler needs to be a recognised strength product suitable for below
waterline use
- clamp / prop/ stick something to which epoxy won't adhere to the hull
side of the hole, and fill the hole from the inside
- it should be at sufficient strength to remove the "something" overnight,
and cured ready for surface prep / painting a lot quicker than two weeks
.....
Again, see epoxy supplier info.
DF


-
wrote in message
...
Having repaired windsurfers and built a boat, your question is easy.
Fixing the transducer holes is as easy as patching a hole in your wall
to paint. Get yourself some two part epoxy from Tap Plastics or check
out Jamestown distributers on line.

Prepare the holes by sanding anything loose away and then mix a little
bit of epoxy and add something to make it like a loose puddy. This can
be very fine sawdust, fiberglass dust from sanding your boat or glass
microballoons that you can buy at Tap Plastics or Jamestown or where
ever. You will need about twice as much of the thickening agent as
epoxy. Now push this into the holes and wait for it to dry. Now, sand
and add a second coat to get a smooth even finish. It will take a day
to two days to dry and a two weeks till you can paint.

OR!!! Marine Tex is a great product and you can have the holes fixed
and painted in two days. It will work fine unless you need to repair a
a large area that needs a more structual repair, then your back to the
epoxy and fiberglass cloth.
On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 04:20:08 GMT, "Dave"
wrote:

I have a 1983 Bayliner, fiberglass. In the engine room there are 2
transducers with the wires cut at the top, are not being used. I am
pulling
the boat to paint the bottom and IO. Is it a good idea to pull the
transducers out and plug holes?



If so how much time will it take for me to do it and how to do it?



Where can I get CLEAR information?



Thank you!

The right ways are to be found on the West System site.
http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/21/p..._practical.pdf


"Dave" wrote in message m...
I have a 1983 Bayliner, fiberglass. In the engine room there are 2
transducers with the wires cut at the top, are not being used. I am pulling
the boat to paint the bottom and IO. Is it a good idea to pull the
transducers out and plug holes?



If so how much time will it take for me to do it and how to do it?



Where can I get CLEAR information?



Thank you!

On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 13:05:16 -0400, "Jim Conlin"
wrote:
The right ways are to be found on the West System site.
http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/21/p..._practical.pdf

Agreed. Study the 12:1 bevel diagram. It's easy to do, but give
yourself the time to (a) learn the steps (West System brochures), and
(b) carry out the repair (not in one sitting). I closed a 2" hole in
our hull that way several years ago, and the repair is perfectly
functional still. Use approved fillers only. Sand with 80 grit after
cleaning off wax/oils with appropriate fluid. Wipe blush off when
adding new epoxy to recently cured epoxy in subsequent steps. It
really is easy, once you have the steps worked out.

You'll need:

1. 80 grit sandpaper to create a good sticking surface.
2. Grinder to shape the bevel.
3. Epoxy.
4. Filler to harden the epoxy plug.
5. Fiberglass cloth appropriate for epoxy, not polyester.
6. Rags.
7. Solvent.
8. Water.
9. Release fabric to keep epoxy from sticking to supports.
10. Masking tape (epoxy does not stick to it).

J

Dave, Don't follow the plan of basilk or David of just putting a plug
in the hole.If the hull flexes and it pops out or you scrape a rock and
it pops out or it just pops out from water pressure, most likely you'll
sink with your bilge pump pumping. Both sides of the hole need to be
ground back in a taper and resin and glass fabric on both sides used to
seal the hole. Follow the directions on the site Jim C. supplied, the
third category, High Risk, example 8, and you will be doing it right.
If you know what you're doing and have the tools and materials you
could do it in an hour or two. Sam

Hi
Whilst I can see the reason for a full epoxy / glass patch, I was thinking
more of a similar job we did on a wooden boat. The old transducer was in a
mounting block, so there was about 3" depth of hole once the transducer was
removed. No way a wooden plug glued in place with epoxy / fibres was going
anywhere. I'd not though about hull flexing. Just goes to show how hard it
is to describe issues in words, let alone the appropriate fix!
David
wrote in message
oups.com...
Dave, Don't follow the plan of basilk or David of just putting a plug
in the hole.If the hull flexes and it pops out or you scrape a rock and
it pops out or it just pops out from water pressure, most likely you'll
sink with your bilge pump pumping. Both sides of the hole need to be
ground back in a taper and resin and glass fabric on both sides used to
seal the hole. Follow the directions on the site Jim C. supplied, the
third category, High Risk, example 8, and you will be doing it right.
If you know what you're doing and have the tools and materials you
could do it in an hour or two. Sam

On a wood (carvel planked) boat, i think the 'correct' method is to fill
the hole with a wood plug and back it up with duplicate of the boat's other
butt blocks, through-bolted. Typically, this would be the width of the
plank, as long as a frame space and of somewhat greater thickness than
planking stock.
Remember that transducer backup and fairing blocks were held in place by
the transducer itself. Without the transducer as a fastening, you need to
find another way to hold the works together. Just plugging the hole won't
do.

"David Flew" wrote in message
...

Hi
Whilst I can see the reason for a full epoxy / glass patch, I was thinking
more of a similar job we did on a wooden boat. The old transducer was in
a
mounting block, so there was about 3" depth of hole once the transducer
was
removed. No way a wooden plug glued in place with epoxy / fibres was
going
anywhere. I'd not though about hull flexing. Just goes to show how hard
it
is to describe issues in words, let alone the appropriate fix!
David
wrote in message
oups.com...
Dave, Don't follow the plan of basilk or David of just putting a plug
in the hole.If the hull flexes and it pops out or you scrape a rock and
it pops out or it just pops out from water pressure, most likely you'll
sink with your bilge pump pumping. Both sides of the hole need to be
ground back in a taper and resin and glass fabric on both sides used to
seal the hole. Follow the directions on the site Jim C. supplied, the
third category, High Risk, example 8, and you will be doing it right.
If you know what you're doing and have the tools and materials you
could do it in an hour or two. Sam

In this case the blocks were bullet proof, and absolutely did not rely on
the transducer for strength. And the owner wanted to retain the blocks
"just in case" he wanted to fit another transducer.
David

"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...
On a wood (carvel planked) boat, i think the 'correct' method is to fill
the hole with a wood plug and back it up with duplicate of the boat's
other
butt blocks, through-bolted. Typically, this would be the width of the
plank, as long as a frame space and of somewhat greater thickness than
planking stock.
Remember that transducer backup and fairing blocks were held in place by
the transducer itself. Without the transducer as a fastening, you need to
find another way to hold the works together. Just plugging the hole won't
do.

"David Flew" wrote in message
...

Hi
Whilst I can see the reason for a full epoxy / glass patch, I was
thinking
more of a similar job we did on a wooden boat. The old transducer was in
a
mounting block, so there was about 3" depth of hole once the transducer
was
removed. No way a wooden plug glued in place with epoxy / fibres was
going
anywhere. I'd not though about hull flexing. Just goes to show how hard
it
is to describe issues in words, let alone the appropriate fix!
David
wrote in message
oups.com...
Dave, Don't follow the plan of basilk or David of just putting a plug
in the hole.If the hull flexes and it pops out or you scrape a rock and
it pops out or it just pops out from water pressure, most likely you'll
sink with your bilge pump pumping. Both sides of the hole need to be
ground back in a taper and resin and glass fabric on both sides used to
seal the hole. Follow the directions on the site Jim C. supplied, the
third category, High Risk, example 8, and you will be doing it right.
If you know what you're doing and have the tools and materials you
could do it in an hour or two. Sam

In that case, leave the transducer in place and forget the question.

"David Flew" wrote in message
...

In this case the blocks were bullet proof, and absolutely did not rely on
the transducer for strength. And the owner wanted to retain the blocks
"just in case" he wanted to fit another transducer.
David

"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...
On a wood (carvel planked) boat, i think the 'correct' method is to
fill
the hole with a wood plug and back it up with duplicate of the boat's
other
butt blocks, through-bolted. Typically, this would be the width of the
plank, as long as a frame space and of somewhat greater thickness than
planking stock.
Remember that transducer backup and fairing blocks were held in place
by
the transducer itself. Without the transducer as a fastening, you need
to
find another way to hold the works together. Just plugging the hole
won't
do.

"David Flew" wrote in message
...

Hi
Whilst I can see the reason for a full epoxy / glass patch, I was
thinking
more of a similar job we did on a wooden boat. The old transducer was
in
a
mounting block, so there was about 3" depth of hole once the transducer
was
removed. No way a wooden plug glued in place with epoxy / fibres was
going
anywhere. I'd not though about hull flexing. Just goes to show how
hard
it
is to describe issues in words, let alone the appropriate fix!
David
wrote in message
oups.com...
Dave, Don't follow the plan of basilk or David of just putting a plug
in the hole.If the hull flexes and it pops out or you scrape a rock
and
it pops out or it just pops out from water pressure, most likely
you'll
sink with your bilge pump pumping. Both sides of the hole need to be
ground back in a taper and resin and glass fabric on both sides used
to
seal the hole. Follow the directions on the site Jim C. supplied, the
third category, High Risk, example 8, and you will be doing it right.
If you know what you're doing and have the tools and materials you
could do it in an hour or two. Sam