Hi, Y'all,

Truncating this to a question or two:

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Any manual marine toilet that's working anywhere near factory specs can
move bowl contents at least 6' in the dry mode...so if you learn how to
flush your toilet correctly, there shouldn't be any water or waste in
the line between the toilet and top of the loop to run back down into
the bowl.

This has me very curious. You're saying that enough
speed/pressure/whatever-moves-it is developed, in an anti-siphon environment
(the vented loop), that I can clear a 1.5" line for what is (in the new
installation) about 3.5-4 feet (to the top of the loop) by dry flushing?

I buy that I might be able to flush solids, with water, that far, if I'm
aggressive enough with my volume (and the Raritans we have probably put in a
cup per stroke or so), but I don't see how that pipe can empty, dry pump or
not. I'd have to think the surface tension of the water would not be
sufficient to prevent the water running past the bubble at the edges, as you
recharge between strokes. I'd be thrilled to think I could really empty it,
as that - with a straight discharge - would go a long way to keep odor down
(should be only sea water to make odor, that way). Help me out with my
physics, here?


On the subject of joints, I'm of distinctly curious mind. While my
current
home isn't this way, my prior home had hundreds of feet of PVC pipe run,
with all the necessary ells, Ts and other fittings, all successfully
carrying high pressure hot and cold water.... Am I missing something?

What you're missing is: houses stay put...they don't get tossed around
by wind and wave. Boats do.

Well, yes, of course. But if I secure a large pipe, in a short run, under
next to no pressure, it's not going to move. In the house example, you
could see the distortion of the hot water pipe from expansion vs resting
state as hot water entered, and see it jump as the water was shut off and
turned on - but it all stayed together. In the boat, we'll use hose as
movement absorbers.

Not trying to be argumentative - just understand why I shouldn't be doing as
SeaLand recommends...

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"

By the way, I promoted your book to several people complaining of stinky
heads, and saw many of them being bought from the vendor table at the SSCA
Gam in Melbourne the first weekend in November...

L8R

Skip (and Lydia, by proxy)

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain

Skip Gundlach wrote:
This has me very curious. You're saying that enough
speed/pressure/whatever-moves-it is developed, in an anti-siphon environment
(the vented loop), that I can clear a 1.5" line for what is (in the new
installation) about 3.5-4 feet (to the top of the loop) by dry flushing?

Yes, Skip...that's what I'm saying. A siphon break (vented loop) has no
impact on water being pushed through it...it only allows air into the
line to break the flow of water being pulled through it.


I buy that I might be able to flush solids, with water, that far, if I'm
aggressive enough with my volume (and the Raritans we have probably put in a
cup per stroke or so), but I don't see how that pipe can empty, dry pump or
not.

You can prove it to yourself by simply seeing what happens when you
flush the toilet in the dry mode.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1