This is slightly off topic since I building a swim platform rather than a
boat, but they use the same materials and both float...

Anyhow, I found a big pile of 5/4"x6"x5' pressure treated planks, weathered
but in good condition. I figured they had gotten all the cupping and
twisting out of their system and were better than new, not to mention free.
I planed them down to 1" thick and put a tongue and grove on them. I am now
in the process of gluing them together.

I would like your advice on what to do next. I intended on covering them
with polyester cloth and polyester resin. I already have the cloth (I also
have fiberglass, but thought polyester would be a better choice here since
strength is not the big issue) but would have to buy the resin.
I have only used epoxy in the past, but figure polyester will be the better
choice because it is UV tolerant.
Does this make any sense, or am I missing something such as compatibility of
materials.
I will be putting some screws into it after lamination to hold on the
floatation (some large blocks of foam I also found in the street) but they I
don't see that as seriously compromising the structure or the "waterproof"
glue. It would be nice to laminate the foam in with the deck, but that is
probably beyond my capabilities.

Any advice would be appreciated. I realize the whole project is crazy
because of the time required, but being unemployed that is not a serious
obstacle.

(My current swim platform was made 3 years ago entirely out of materials I
found in the street, primarily a old kid's climber and a beat up Snark; but
it probably will not survive another year. I hope to make this one much
better.)

Polyester is not going to stick to pressure treated wood very well.
Also, no matter how old it is if you only cover the top the two surfaces
will still swell and shrink at different rates causing the boards to cup
again. When the glass cracks it is going to produce sone nasty places
to stub a bare foot.

About 20 years ago on Lake Sinclair I built a 10'x16' floating dock/swim
platform with PT pine 4/4 decking over a 2x8 frame leaving about 1/8"
gap between boards. Painted all the parts before assembly with
stainless deck screws. Corners were reinforced with short lengths of
6x6 angle iron. Covered the top with dacron canvas tacked around the
edges and covered the edges with plastic dock bumper strips. The dock
is still there and looks good although I don't own it any more. To my
knowlege the cover and bumpers have been replaced twice and the
styrofoam floats once.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"John" writes:

snip
I planed them down to 1" thick and put a tongue and grove on them. I am
now
in the process of gluing them together.

Not sure I'd do that, seems maintaining a gap, say 1/8"-1/4" between planks
to accomadate expansion would bew a better solution.

I would like your advice on what to do next. I intended on covering them
with polyester cloth and polyester resin.

Polyester makes a lousy glue, wouldn't do it not only for that reason but it
won't accomodate the expansion/contraction of the wood with the change in
seasons.

I have only used epoxy in the past, but figure polyester will be the
better
choice because it is UV tolerant.

I'm an epoxy shop, but would'nt use it for the reasons already stated.

Does this make any sense, or am I missing something such as compatibility
of
materials.

IMHO, you are, see above for reasons.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Since Glenn has already been to the movie, read his post.

HTH

Lew

Nothing crazy about using your own two hands and materials left lying about.

I agree, fiberglassing will not work. but why bother? It's not going to rot
anytime soon. Finish it with a good stain and seal it with may coats of
spar varnish (if it will stick to
pressure treated). I have encapusulated pressure treated with expoy but
that could be
expensive.

The Yankess here in Connecticut say:

Use it up.
Wear it out.
Make it do,
or do without.

Good Luck

"John" ) writes:
This is slightly off topic since I building a swim platform rather than a
boat, but they use the same materials and both float...

don't use tounge and groove. have yoyu ever see what happens to T&G
hardwood floors when they get wet? they swell and rise inte wierd non-flat
shapes. exterior flooring needs the gap between the boards. when laying
exterior wood floors lay the wood outside up so the edges won't cup
upwards. by "outside up" is meant the outside of the tree from which the
wood is cut should be the top side of the floor. look at the end of the
boards and make sure the tree rings are higest in the centre of the board.
if not turn the board over.

polyester resin may or may not adhere sufficiently to the wood floor, but
if you are leaving expansion gaps you don't want the resin adhering to the
flooring. if you want a fibreglass swim platform I'd make it like an
upside down boat, or an upside down fibreglass box srewed to a floating
wood frame. it will be heavy and cost more than a stright wooden swim
platform. another thing to consider is making a fibreglass sheet separate
from the wood frame and then attach it to the wood floor with edge strips
so the wood is free to move underneath teh floor. you can put a thin
sheet on and then build it up with more layers. the polyester will have to
be protected from the sun with paint. I don't know if tinting the
poylester white with titatium oxide will keep the sun from breaking down the
resin. On boats gelcoat is used to protect the resin.

on the whole I don't think fibreglass flooring is a good idea but who
knows?
--
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You will be glad to know I have given up on the idea of fiberglassing the
swim platform.

Now I am thinking about using a polyurethane paint intended for truck
bedliners. The manufacturer says it will accomodate the wood movement
just fine, but recommends I use a primer first because it doesn't still all
that well to PT.

Thanks.

If it is good wood, show it off. I'd do this:

Quarter-round the sides which will be on the edge of the platform.
Drill the screw holes
Use a low viscosity epoxy on the planks to seal the wood, concentrating on
the end grain and screw holes (just don't fill them up). You can leave the
bottoms unsealed to let the wood breathe.
Sand between the epoxy and all varnish coats, of course.
Varnish with an outdoor/marine varnish.
Mount with stainless screw or bronze nails if you are really going for the
nautical look.

Glue the floats on with foam caulk. It fills gaps, sticks like crazy, and
is compatible with Styrofoam.

If it isn't pretty, I'd make a fiberglass "shower cap" like a Tupperware
lid:

If you are going to cover it, why not just use plywood and save your lumber?
Either way, here is a method.

Assemble the platform top, cover it with plastic, then cover it with glass
and enough resin to just wet out the cloth, leaving a non-skid pattern.
After this sets, use a roller to apply gel coat. Trim the edges and voila!



"John" wrote in message
...
You will be glad to know I have given up on the idea of fiberglassing the
swim platform.

Now I am thinking about using a polyurethane paint intended for truck
bedliners. The manufacturer says it will accomodate the wood movement
just fine, but recommends I use a primer first because it doesn't still
all
that well to PT.

Thanks.