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Cleaning up 4200
Wow, finally a legimate "boat building" post, instead of a smart-ass
remark...G I just drilled, filled, caulked and bolted a pair of mid-ship cleats using what I think is the best method From the top: Cleat Heavily Cetol'd teak 1 1/4 " block, about 4" by 6", bevelled to shed water and angled back slightly. It elevates the cleat to just clear the toerail to reduce chafe. Epoxied bolt holes, oversized to 3/8" from above and set with 1:1 epoxy with about 15% microballoons as fill. Deck with 1/2" balsa core. Core was reamed out beyond the FG "skins". Aluminum 1/4 backing plate with 3/8" holes. Four 3" SS 1/4" bolts and nuts dogged down to about 40 lb/sq.in (torque wrench). Bolts had 4200 swirled around the heads about 1" down the shaft. I used 3M 4200 and as many know, it's a bit messy. OK, a lot messy. I should have worn gloves, but I didn't, and now the grey residue is on my fingers. Is there a reasonable way short of time and scrubbing to get this off skin? Also, like many, I used about 10 percent of a tube yesterday to do the job, leaving 90% still in the gun and ticking away until it's useless in another 30 hours or so. Can 4200 beads be used to caulk exterior aluminum? The porch caulk is looking tired and I could easily make time to run a fresh bead over a cleaned surface if 4200 is appropriate--if expensive--as a typical exterior caulk. Your thoughts are appreciated. Acetone didn't help much and it's toxic stuff. R. |
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