Wow, finally a legimate "boat building" post, instead of a smart-ass
remark...G

I just drilled, filled, caulked and bolted a pair of mid-ship cleats
using what I think is the best method

From the top:

Cleat

Heavily Cetol'd teak 1 1/4 " block, about 4" by 6", bevelled to shed
water and angled back slightly. It elevates the cleat to just clear
the toerail to reduce chafe.

Epoxied bolt holes, oversized to 3/8" from above and set with 1:1
epoxy with about 15% microballoons as fill.

Deck with 1/2" balsa core. Core was reamed out beyond the FG "skins".

Aluminum 1/4 backing plate with 3/8" holes.

Four 3" SS 1/4" bolts and nuts dogged down to about 40 lb/sq.in
(torque wrench). Bolts had 4200 swirled around the heads about 1" down
the shaft.


I used 3M 4200 and as many know, it's a bit messy.

OK, a lot messy.

I should have worn gloves, but I didn't, and now the grey residue is
on my fingers. Is there a reasonable way short of time and scrubbing
to get this off skin?

Also, like many, I used about 10 percent of a tube yesterday to do the
job, leaving 90% still in the gun and ticking away until it's useless
in another 30 hours or so. Can 4200 beads be used to caulk exterior
aluminum? The porch caulk is looking tired and I could easily make
time to run a fresh bead over a cleaned surface if 4200 is
appropriate--if expensive--as a typical exterior caulk.

Your thoughts are appreciated. Acetone didn't help much and it's toxic
stuff.

R.