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#1
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Very Cool Boat Building Kit
On Fri, 10 Dec 2010 15:31:58 -0500, HarryK
wrote: I get the idea he's going to launch one half with him in it, and then row over to the other half for assembly. It wouldn't be that different from launching the present dinghy except for the reassembly. The small section would go in first with the bow painter on it, then tie it off on the stern of the big boat. Next you'd launch the big section with a stern line on it. Next step would be to get into the big section, line it up with the small one and bolt them together. It would be difficult in windy weather but we try to avoid that even now. |
#2
posted to rec.boats,rec.boats.building,rec.boats.cruising
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Very Cool Boat Building Kit
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
... On Fri, 10 Dec 2010 15:31:58 -0500, HarryK wrote: I get the idea he's going to launch one half with him in it, and then row over to the other half for assembly. It wouldn't be that different from launching the present dinghy except for the reassembly. The small section would go in first with the bow painter on it, then tie it off on the stern of the big boat. Next you'd launch the big section with a stern line on it. Next step would be to get into the big section, line it up with the small one and bolt them together. It would be difficult in windy weather but we try to avoid that even now. Reply: Actually sounds very doable. Just make a bulkhead at the front of the large section and bulkhead at the back of the front section. Make it two boats. Then merge them with some large tapered alignment bins and instead of all bolts, a zeus type fastener. Or on second thought, the alignment pins are only tapered on the front and have a course Acme type thread to spin on large nuts quickly. Then a couple more bolts if needed.Maybe need a rubber plug in the bottom bolt holes while launching. The bulkheads would allow both sections to float and with a rubber washer on the connectors, no or little water entering the skiff. |
#3
posted to rec.boats,rec.boats.building,rec.boats.cruising
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Very Cool Boat Building Kit
On Dec 11, 1:17*am, "Califbill" wrote:
"Wayne.B" *wrote in message ... On Fri, 10 Dec 2010 15:31:58 -0500, HarryK wrote: I get the idea he's going to launch one half with him in it, and then row over to the other half for assembly. It wouldn't be that different from launching the present dinghy except for the reassembly. * The small section would go in first with the bow painter on it, then tie it off on the stern of the big boat. * Next you'd launch the big section with a stern line on it. * Next step would be to get into the big section, line it up with the small one and bolt them together. *It would be difficult in windy weather but we try to avoid that even now. Reply: Actually sounds very doable. *Just make a bulkhead at the front of the large section and bulkhead at the back of the front section. *Make it two boats. Then merge them with some large tapered alignment bins and instead of all bolts, a zeus type fastener. *Or on second thought, the alignment pins are only tapered on the front and have a course Acme type thread to spin on large nuts quickly. *Then a couple more bolts if needed.Maybe need a rubber plug in the bottom bolt holes while launching. *The bulkheads would allow both sections to float and with a rubber washer on the connectors, no or little water entering the skiff. I have doubts about a long version because of the torque about the center from weight in the ends. This much less of a problem in a short one. Remember, you are really stressing the attachment points. I tried several ways to get the bolt idea to work including putting foam strips with small holes over the bolt holes to help seal the bolt holes; kinda sorta worked. I investigated "Slip nuts" for this to make assembly much faster but never used them. The seat on mine helps hold the two halves together by means of a slot cut into the seat lengthwise. I deepened this slot by putting strips on either side of the slot. This could be carried to an extreme to make the seat carry more of the torque. I also looked into using "Deep C clamps" available from Mcmaster-Carr (my toy store) but they seem very heavy. The stainless "Draw Clamps" from McMaster_Carr installed just below the rub rail on the outside so they do not extend beyond the rail work very well. They hold the halves together near the top. The seat holds them together across the boat. You still need a way to hold them together at the bottom. For this I got two pieces of 1/8" X 2" X6" pieces of stainless and bent them 90 degrees in the middle. I recessed them into the bottom of the back half with bolts and epoxy so the tab sticks up between the two halves about 1/8" from the bulkhead. On the other half, I made a recessed receptacle covered with another piece of SS. This is very strong, probably stronger than the bolts. |
#4
posted to rec.boats,rec.boats.building,rec.boats.cruising
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Very Cool Boat Building Kit
"Frogwatch" wrote in message
... On Dec 11, 1:17 am, "Califbill" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Fri, 10 Dec 2010 15:31:58 -0500, HarryK wrote: I get the idea he's going to launch one half with him in it, and then row over to the other half for assembly. It wouldn't be that different from launching the present dinghy except for the reassembly. The small section would go in first with the bow painter on it, then tie it off on the stern of the big boat. Next you'd launch the big section with a stern line on it. Next step would be to get into the big section, line it up with the small one and bolt them together. It would be difficult in windy weather but we try to avoid that even now. Reply: Actually sounds very doable. Just make a bulkhead at the front of the large section and bulkhead at the back of the front section. Make it two boats. Then merge them with some large tapered alignment bins and instead of all bolts, a zeus type fastener. Or on second thought, the alignment pins are only tapered on the front and have a course Acme type thread to spin on large nuts quickly. Then a couple more bolts if needed.Maybe need a rubber plug in the bottom bolt holes while launching. The bulkheads would allow both sections to float and with a rubber washer on the connectors, no or little water entering the skiff. I have doubts about a long version because of the torque about the center from weight in the ends. This much less of a problem in a short one. Remember, you are really stressing the attachment points. I tried several ways to get the bolt idea to work including putting foam strips with small holes over the bolt holes to help seal the bolt holes; kinda sorta worked. I investigated "Slip nuts" for this to make assembly much faster but never used them. The seat on mine helps hold the two halves together by means of a slot cut into the seat lengthwise. I deepened this slot by putting strips on either side of the slot. This could be carried to an extreme to make the seat carry more of the torque. I also looked into using "Deep C clamps" available from Mcmaster-Carr (my toy store) but they seem very heavy. The stainless "Draw Clamps" from McMaster_Carr installed just below the rub rail on the outside so they do not extend beyond the rail work very well. They hold the halves together near the top. The seat holds them together across the boat. You still need a way to hold them together at the bottom. For this I got two pieces of 1/8" X 2" X6" pieces of stainless and bent them 90 degrees in the middle. I recessed them into the bottom of the back half with bolts and epoxy so the tab sticks up between the two halves about 1/8" from the bulkhead. On the other half, I made a recessed receptacle covered with another piece of SS. This is very strong, probably stronger than the bolts. Reply: You could make some stainless tabs that slipped into a receiver on the large section, etc. |
#5
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Hello
I have an asus eee pc 10' notebook (1001px)office 2010 x64 On the box it says.. "Purchaseoffice Professional Plus 2010 upgrade key to activate preloaded software on this PC" and i already have a product key/code formicrosoft office pro 2010 update key but dont know where to find the preloaded software (or the place where i can enter the key)office Professional Plus 2010 32bit Could you help by any chance?office Professional Plus 2010 serial Thankyou |
#6
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Hello
I have an asus eee pc 10' notebook (1001px)office 2010 generator On the box it says.. "Purchaseoffice 2010 pro plus key to activate preloaded software on this PC" and i already have a product key/code formicrosoft office Home And Business 2010 but dont know where to find the preloaded software (or the place where i can enter the key)office Professional Plus 2010 64 bit Could you help by any chance?microsoft office 2010 pro plus 64 bit Thankyou |
#7
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Hello
I have an asus eee pc 10' notebook (1001px)microsoft office Home And Student 2010 64 bit key On the box it says.. "Purchaseoffice 2010 pro plus upgrade key to activate preloaded software on this PC" and i already have a product key/code foroffice 2010 Standard generator key but dont know where to find the preloaded software (or the place where i can enter the key)microsoft office pro 2010 x64 Could you help by any chance?office pro plus 2010 code Thankyou |
#8
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I installed Windows 7 Windows 7 Discount on my current Microsoft Office Professional 2010 computer, but it turns out I'll be getting a new one next month. Microsoft Office 2007 Enterprise The Microsoft guy said that I Windows 7 Serial have to option to uninstall Windows 7 and deactivate the key so i can Office Standard 2010 install that same windows 7 on a different computer. How do I uninstall Windows 7 and deactivate the key?
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#9
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Hello
I have an asus eee pc 10' notebook (1001px)microsoft office 2010 pro plus 32bit On the box it says.. "Purchasemicrosoft office 2010 Professional Plus keygen to activate preloaded software on this PC" and i already have a product key/code formicrosoft office 2010 32bit but dont know where to find the preloaded software (or the place where i can enter the key)office Professional 2010 upgrade key Could you help by any chance?office 2010 generator key Thankyou |
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