On Fri, 10 Dec 2010 14:07:58 -0500, I am Tosk
wrote:

It could easily be scaled up... Who is gonna' build it, you?

Sure, why not?

I've rebuilt and repaired quite a few boats but never done a whole one
from scratch. Tools are not a problem and I've got lots of time and
good weather most of the time. Space is more of an issue but could do
it in the driveway, down on the dock or on the back patio.

On Fri, 10 Dec 2010 15:31:58 -0500, HarryK
wrote:

I get the idea he's going to launch one half with him in it, and then
row over to the other half for assembly.

It wouldn't be that different from launching the present dinghy except
for the reassembly. The small section would go in first with the bow
painter on it, then tie it off on the stern of the big boat. Next
you'd launch the big section with a stern line on it. Next step
would be to get into the big section, line it up with the small one
and bolt them together. It would be difficult in windy weather but we
try to avoid that even now.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...

On Fri, 10 Dec 2010 15:31:58 -0500, HarryK
wrote:

I get the idea he's going to launch one half with him in it, and then
row over to the other half for assembly.

It wouldn't be that different from launching the present dinghy except
for the reassembly. The small section would go in first with the bow
painter on it, then tie it off on the stern of the big boat. Next
you'd launch the big section with a stern line on it. Next step
would be to get into the big section, line it up with the small one
and bolt them together. It would be difficult in windy weather but we
try to avoid that even now.


Reply:
Actually sounds very doable. Just make a bulkhead at the front of the large
section and bulkhead at the back of the front section. Make it two boats.
Then merge them with some large tapered alignment bins and instead of all
bolts, a zeus type fastener. Or on second thought, the alignment pins are
only tapered on the front and have a course Acme type thread to spin on
large nuts quickly. Then a couple more bolts if needed.Maybe need a rubber
plug in the bottom bolt holes while launching. The bulkheads would allow
both sections to float and with a rubber washer on the connectors, no or
little water entering the skiff.

On Dec 11, 1:17*am, "Califbill" wrote:
"Wayne.B" *wrote in message

...

On Fri, 10 Dec 2010 15:31:58 -0500, HarryK
wrote:

I get the idea he's going to launch one half with him in it, and then
row over to the other half for assembly.

It wouldn't be that different from launching the present dinghy except
for the reassembly. * The small section would go in first with the bow
painter on it, then tie it off on the stern of the big boat. * Next
you'd launch the big section with a stern line on it. * Next step
would be to get into the big section, line it up with the small one
and bolt them together. *It would be difficult in windy weather but we
try to avoid that even now.

Reply:
Actually sounds very doable. *Just make a bulkhead at the front of the large
section and bulkhead at the back of the front section. *Make it two boats.
Then merge them with some large tapered alignment bins and instead of all
bolts, a zeus type fastener. *Or on second thought, the alignment pins are
only tapered on the front and have a course Acme type thread to spin on
large nuts quickly. *Then a couple more bolts if needed.Maybe need a rubber
plug in the bottom bolt holes while launching. *The bulkheads would allow
both sections to float and with a rubber washer on the connectors, no or
little water entering the skiff.

I have doubts about a long version because of the torque about the
center from weight in the ends. This much less of a problem in a
short one. Remember, you are really stressing the attachment points.
I tried several ways to get the bolt idea to work including putting
foam strips with small holes over the bolt holes to help seal the bolt
holes; kinda sorta worked. I investigated "Slip nuts" for this to
make assembly much faster but never used them. The seat on mine helps
hold the two halves together by means of a slot cut into the seat
lengthwise. I deepened this slot by putting strips on either side of
the slot. This could be carried to an extreme to make the seat carry
more of the torque. I also looked into using "Deep C clamps" available
from Mcmaster-Carr (my toy store) but they seem very heavy. The
stainless "Draw Clamps" from McMaster_Carr installed just below the
rub rail on the outside so they do not extend beyond the rail work
very well. They hold the halves together near the top. The seat
holds them together across the boat. You still need a way to hold
them together at the bottom. For this I got two pieces of 1/8" X 2"
X6" pieces of stainless and bent them 90 degrees in the middle. I
recessed them into the bottom of the back half with bolts and epoxy so
the tab sticks up between the two halves about 1/8" from the
bulkhead. On the other half, I made a recessed receptacle covered
with another piece of SS. This is very strong, probably stronger than
the bolts.

"Frogwatch" wrote in message
...

On Dec 11, 1:17 am, "Califbill" wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message

...

On Fri, 10 Dec 2010 15:31:58 -0500, HarryK
wrote:

I get the idea he's going to launch one half with him in it, and then
row over to the other half for assembly.

It wouldn't be that different from launching the present dinghy except
for the reassembly. The small section would go in first with the bow
painter on it, then tie it off on the stern of the big boat. Next
you'd launch the big section with a stern line on it. Next step
would be to get into the big section, line it up with the small one
and bolt them together. It would be difficult in windy weather but we
try to avoid that even now.

Reply:
Actually sounds very doable. Just make a bulkhead at the front of the
large
section and bulkhead at the back of the front section. Make it two boats.
Then merge them with some large tapered alignment bins and instead of all
bolts, a zeus type fastener. Or on second thought, the alignment pins are
only tapered on the front and have a course Acme type thread to spin on
large nuts quickly. Then a couple more bolts if needed.Maybe need a
rubber
plug in the bottom bolt holes while launching. The bulkheads would allow
both sections to float and with a rubber washer on the connectors, no or
little water entering the skiff.

I have doubts about a long version because of the torque about the
center from weight in the ends. This much less of a problem in a
short one. Remember, you are really stressing the attachment points.
I tried several ways to get the bolt idea to work including putting
foam strips with small holes over the bolt holes to help seal the bolt
holes; kinda sorta worked. I investigated "Slip nuts" for this to
make assembly much faster but never used them. The seat on mine helps
hold the two halves together by means of a slot cut into the seat
lengthwise. I deepened this slot by putting strips on either side of
the slot. This could be carried to an extreme to make the seat carry
more of the torque. I also looked into using "Deep C clamps" available
from Mcmaster-Carr (my toy store) but they seem very heavy. The
stainless "Draw Clamps" from McMaster_Carr installed just below the
rub rail on the outside so they do not extend beyond the rail work
very well. They hold the halves together near the top. The seat
holds them together across the boat. You still need a way to hold
them together at the bottom. For this I got two pieces of 1/8" X 2"
X6" pieces of stainless and bent them 90 degrees in the middle. I
recessed them into the bottom of the back half with bolts and epoxy so
the tab sticks up between the two halves about 1/8" from the
bulkhead. On the other half, I made a recessed receptacle covered
with another piece of SS. This is very strong, probably stronger than
the bolts.


Reply:
You could make some stainless tabs that slipped into a receiver on the large
section, etc.

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